I realize that this post nine years old BUT maybe this suggestion can help someone in the future. I would use a block heater like they use in Alaska. The one i have has heater hose fittings on each end. and the heated water causes the water to circulate though the block. Failing that you could rig up water heater like we used in Elk camp. The Camp Bull rapped about 5 or 6 coils of copper tube around the wood stove. the ends of the tube were fastened into the water container, one high and one low with bungs. make your engine the water container. This method has the water at a rolling boil in nothing flat.
Remove Pull Replace Install Change T1N Fuel Injector
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I realize that this post nine years old BUT maybe this suggestion can help someone in the future. I would use a block heater like they use in Alaska. The one i have has heater hose fittings on each end. and the heated water causes the water to circulate though the block. Failing that you could rig up water heater like we used in Elk camp. The Camp Bull rapped about 5 or 6 coils of copper tube around the wood stove. the ends of the tube were fastened into the water container, one high and one low with bungs. make your engine the water container. This method has the water at a rolling boil in nothing flat.
Nemesiss45
Member
I just wanted to add some information on the process I used to remove a broken injector holddown bolt. When I attempted to remove my #5 injector to fix the black death, the bolt (which had been overtorqued by someone who previously worked on it) sheered off 20mm below the head. I did some research on possible solutions and decided I would try a 3 staged attack. 1st- attempt to extract the bolt. 2nd - if the extraction failed, drill the bolt with a 6mm bit and tap it for a 7mm bolt (part# a 001 990 26 07)... if this failed, then 3rd - try locate a time-sert kit and install that.
Luckly, the extraction worked, so here is what I did.
I cleaned the carbon off best that I could and removed the injector to open up the space. (Be sure to plug the injector hole, you don't want metal filings falling into the cyllinder.
You will need a bolt extractor. I bought several types, the ones from most hardware stores will be too short to use effectively, and they really don't grip well. I ended up using a 2-5/8" Proto screw extractor from Tacoma Screw. Fastenal has the same thing under their brand, and any fastener specific store will probably have the same thing. I got the smallest one they had, which the clerk selected when I told him I needed it for a 6mm bolt. Look at the photo where it is sticking out of the bolt... it is like a hardened square spike with knif edges cut into the corners to bit into the bolt. You tap these in with a hammer, and while the other extractor just slid in the hole, this one bit in hard. And tapping it in probably helped loosen up the bolt a little too. This is the first time I used one of these, and I don't think I will every try the easy out style again.
To drill it out without damaging the head was critical. I used some information from the forum and adapted it a bit to make a jig.
Some hardware and hobby stores carry nesting brass tubes. I bought 6 for this method... they are not too expensive, so it was mayve 20-$30 for the tubes. Get 5/16 and every size down to the drill bit you are using (I went down to 5/32) the 1/4" tube should fit over the shaft of the bolt, and the larger tubes will fit in the counterbore to help stabilize the jig. The smaller tubes will sit on the top.of the bolt and keep the drill centered. You will need to cut them down because they are 12" long. I cut the biggest tune to 1.5", the next one I cut to 2". Put these into the counter bore and slid them as deep as I could, then taped them together.. they were a little staggered due to the shape of the hole. The tape will keep the jig tidy, as you will need to remove it several times in the operation. All the other tubes, I cut to 3". The largest of the 3" tubes will fit over the bolt and so the others will stand proud of it on the top of the bolt (it should look like the photo). If there is a lot of carbon in the counterbore, you can cut a couple notches in the largest tube and the 1/4" tube then uses to clean the carbon out by twisting them by hand... solvent may help. I was lucky and didn't have much crust in there. So I only spent a minute trying to clean it out.
I bought a 12" aircraft drill bit for the job, use what is recommended for the tap (or at least very close to it). The bit was way too long, but a standard bit would be tok short. They sell 6" aircraft bits, and that might work... I just cut the tail of min off at a point where I could get my right angle drill on it and still have some length to drill. (For cyllinder #5, you WILL need a right angle drill or at least a right angle attachment... I recommend the drill so there are fewer moving parts trying to yank your drill to an angle.) I left the drill bit longer enough that I had to place it in the jig, on the head, then chuck it into tue drill in place. There may be enough leeway to cut it a little shorter, but I wanted the extra length if I needed it.
Luckly, the extraction worked, so here is what I did.
I cleaned the carbon off best that I could and removed the injector to open up the space. (Be sure to plug the injector hole, you don't want metal filings falling into the cyllinder.
You will need a bolt extractor. I bought several types, the ones from most hardware stores will be too short to use effectively, and they really don't grip well. I ended up using a 2-5/8" Proto screw extractor from Tacoma Screw. Fastenal has the same thing under their brand, and any fastener specific store will probably have the same thing. I got the smallest one they had, which the clerk selected when I told him I needed it for a 6mm bolt. Look at the photo where it is sticking out of the bolt... it is like a hardened square spike with knif edges cut into the corners to bit into the bolt. You tap these in with a hammer, and while the other extractor just slid in the hole, this one bit in hard. And tapping it in probably helped loosen up the bolt a little too. This is the first time I used one of these, and I don't think I will every try the easy out style again.
To drill it out without damaging the head was critical. I used some information from the forum and adapted it a bit to make a jig.
Some hardware and hobby stores carry nesting brass tubes. I bought 6 for this method... they are not too expensive, so it was mayve 20-$30 for the tubes. Get 5/16 and every size down to the drill bit you are using (I went down to 5/32) the 1/4" tube should fit over the shaft of the bolt, and the larger tubes will fit in the counterbore to help stabilize the jig. The smaller tubes will sit on the top.of the bolt and keep the drill centered. You will need to cut them down because they are 12" long. I cut the biggest tune to 1.5", the next one I cut to 2". Put these into the counter bore and slid them as deep as I could, then taped them together.. they were a little staggered due to the shape of the hole. The tape will keep the jig tidy, as you will need to remove it several times in the operation. All the other tubes, I cut to 3". The largest of the 3" tubes will fit over the bolt and so the others will stand proud of it on the top of the bolt (it should look like the photo). If there is a lot of carbon in the counterbore, you can cut a couple notches in the largest tube and the 1/4" tube then uses to clean the carbon out by twisting them by hand... solvent may help. I was lucky and didn't have much crust in there. So I only spent a minute trying to clean it out.
I bought a 12" aircraft drill bit for the job, use what is recommended for the tap (or at least very close to it). The bit was way too long, but a standard bit would be tok short. They sell 6" aircraft bits, and that might work... I just cut the tail of min off at a point where I could get my right angle drill on it and still have some length to drill. (For cyllinder #5, you WILL need a right angle drill or at least a right angle attachment... I recommend the drill so there are fewer moving parts trying to yank your drill to an angle.) I left the drill bit longer enough that I had to place it in the jig, on the head, then chuck it into tue drill in place. There may be enough leeway to cut it a little shorter, but I wanted the extra length if I needed it.
Nemesiss45
Member
When I drilled the bolt, I would mount the jig, with the bit in it, then I would maneuver the drill into place, chuck in the bit, and drill slowly, being careful to keep it as straight as I could. The jig will keep it centered, but you can still drill at slight angle, which could cause problems if you end up having to drill the whole bolt out.... so keep it straight! The jig wants to be straight, so just look where it is at, and make sure you are not pulling it off center.
As you drill, the chips will build up and push the smallest tube up. I used this as a gauge to verify that I was making progress, and when I pushed up about 1/2" (this did not equal 1/2" of drilling depth) I would unchecked, remove the drill, pull out the jig with the bit, blow out the hole with compressed air, and remove the chips from the jig. I took the chips each time and stuck them to a magnet to verify that they were steel and not aluminum... if they don't stick to the magnet, then stop and reasses, because you are drilling into the head. Before putting the jig back in, I would use the camera on my phone to look at the hole and make sure it looked centered and nothing looked off about it.
I went through about 5 cycles of drilling until I thought I was at a good spot to use the extractor... I think I went 1/2-3/4" deep. You can follow the manufactures instructions... but basically, it just need to be deep enough that you can get the extractor to bite the edge well.
When playing the extractor, I put it in the hole and gave it a few solid taps with a ball peen hammer. When it is set, it should not wiggle or pull out... test it... if you can pull it out with your fingers, it is not going to pull a stuck bolt out. There was not a lot of space to wrench on the extractor, and craking on it from the side seemed like it would be easy to pull it out of the bolts, so I got my smallest pair of vise grips and clamped the living daylights out of it from the top (if you don't camp hard, it will twist off, mine did the first time) with the vertical vise grips, I stuck a screwdriver through the remaining space in the jaws and twisted it while bracing the handles to keep from pulling to the side. I had to reset the pliers at 90 increments to have space for this. After a few turns, it loosened up and I could tell the bolt was coming with it, so I was able to skip the screwdriver and spin it the rest of the way by hand.
If anyone else is in the situation, I very much recommend this method, or use it as a base to improve on.
Good luck!
As you drill, the chips will build up and push the smallest tube up. I used this as a gauge to verify that I was making progress, and when I pushed up about 1/2" (this did not equal 1/2" of drilling depth) I would unchecked, remove the drill, pull out the jig with the bit, blow out the hole with compressed air, and remove the chips from the jig. I took the chips each time and stuck them to a magnet to verify that they were steel and not aluminum... if they don't stick to the magnet, then stop and reasses, because you are drilling into the head. Before putting the jig back in, I would use the camera on my phone to look at the hole and make sure it looked centered and nothing looked off about it.
I went through about 5 cycles of drilling until I thought I was at a good spot to use the extractor... I think I went 1/2-3/4" deep. You can follow the manufactures instructions... but basically, it just need to be deep enough that you can get the extractor to bite the edge well.
When playing the extractor, I put it in the hole and gave it a few solid taps with a ball peen hammer. When it is set, it should not wiggle or pull out... test it... if you can pull it out with your fingers, it is not going to pull a stuck bolt out. There was not a lot of space to wrench on the extractor, and craking on it from the side seemed like it would be easy to pull it out of the bolts, so I got my smallest pair of vise grips and clamped the living daylights out of it from the top (if you don't camp hard, it will twist off, mine did the first time) with the vertical vise grips, I stuck a screwdriver through the remaining space in the jaws and twisted it while bracing the handles to keep from pulling to the side. I had to reset the pliers at 90 increments to have space for this. After a few turns, it loosened up and I could tell the bolt was coming with it, so I was able to skip the screwdriver and spin it the rest of the way by hand.
If anyone else is in the situation, I very much recommend this method, or use it as a base to improve on.
Good luck!
Nemesiss45
Member
I measured this morning, I only drilled the bolt about .4" and the extractor only hammered in about 1/4"
The extractor was Proto tools part J9521, 1/8 screw extractor.
The extractor was Proto tools part J9521, 1/8 screw extractor.
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Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
I like to use cold galvanizing spray paint, and put a light coat on the injector body. The paint stops corrosion, which causes much of injector issues.