Thanks all, for the info, and especially thanks to piper1 for the OP and subsequent step-by-step.
Whereas I've replaced probabily 20 sets of disc brake pads over the years, it's always good to have some info from someone who's actually done the specific vehicle you're (about to be) working on.
I'm also gratified that MB did not do a weird-one on these-- they look like nearly every other front disc brake assembly I've done in the past, and they went with a standard slider-bolt head (metric hex) instead of that b**tard spline head GM did a while back--took a special tool, which was only good for that one application only. I hate having to buy special tools that do one and one-only, on something I'll do maybe twice (GM's don't last long enough for more ... <snerk> )
But looking at the sequence a second time, it appears that standard mechanic's tools will do the job, front-to-back.
Hopefully, this will be fairly quick-- plan on just replacing the front pads (both sides) at this juncture, as the rotors are not that bad, but the pads are close enough to bother me some. And I just realized, I need to check the specs for what type of brake fluid this thing takes-- liable to be something other than the sealed DOT3 I have left from my last brake pad replacement (yeah, I know-- you don't keep old brake fluid once it's been opened-- it loves to absorb water, but I have a factory-sealed can leftover.... probabily not good enough, is it? <heh> )
Do they even make DOT5? (he asks rhetorically... )
Anyway, I just realized I need some high-temp grease for the slider pins-- like piper1, I always re-grease the pins to help avoid that nasty condition known as "stuck caliper".... had a story about one GM sedan and a really weird steering problem.... but that's for another time.