Pixels2013

New member
Hello all.

I have a 2013 2500 sprinter. I had a oil cooler leak and have gone through that repair and now trying to get it running.
As I try to start it by turning the key to the start position and it turns over but won’t start.
As I turn the key to the on or run position it continues to crack until I torn the ignition completely off.

I have checked the relay and it is good. I have tested the starter and it functions normally.
So at this point I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch is causing the issue. I removed it and don’t see anything inside that screams
this is it. I put it all back together and the problem persists.

Anyone have any other things I can try to trouble shoot this?

Is there a way to wire in a push to start circuit if I can't get this thing to work properly?

Thanks for taking a look and I appreciate any help.
Michael
 
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Maslin

I've worked on a few vans
Cranks for how long? It should turn over until the engine starts, or 8 seconds (I think?).

Turn the key to start and let go, it will complete the starting cycle on its own. It will time out and stop spinning on its own as well.
 

Pixels2013

New member
Cranks for how long? It should turn over until the engine starts, or 8 seconds (I think?).

Turn the key to start and let go, it will complete the starting cycle on its own. It will time out and stop spinning on its own as well.
it will just keep cranking. I have done it for 10 a
nd 15 seconds and then shut off the ignition. I have an issue also with the high pressure sensor. But I wanted to tackle this one first.
 
any diesel leaking around your high pressure lines? you took those off presumably when you did the oil cooler seals. Do you know if the van ran before?
 
it will just keep cranking. I have done it for 10 a
nd 15 seconds and then shut off the ignition. I have an issue also with the high pressure sensor. But I wanted to tackle this one first.
wait, you have a problem with the high pressure fuel sensor? that will cause a no start condition.
 

Pixels2013

New member
wait, you have a problem with the high pressure fuel sensor? that will cause a no start condition.
I realize that it can cause it not to start but It shouldn't keep the starter cranking.

Yes I removed the high pressure rail system.

Then maybe I should be trying to resolve that issue first???
 

Maslin

I've worked on a few vans
The fuel issue shouldn't cause the cranking issue.

The starter is actuated through SAM and the front fuse box, the EIS is just a CAN value.
 
The fuel issue shouldn't cause the cranking issue.

The starter is actuated through SAM and the front fuse box, the EIS is just a CAN value.
weird, I had the same exact thing happen to me. cranking no start, my pressure sensor wasn't plugged in all the way.
 

Maslin

I've worked on a few vans
weird, I had the same exact thing happen to me. cranking no start, my pressure sensor wasn't plugged in all the way.

A crank no start? Sure. Cranking on its own forever like the starter relay is stuck? I don’t see the correlation.
 

Kajtek1

1922 Ford T. No OBD
I recall AP200 having very nice troubleshooting page, where all involved parameters are displayed together and those not meeting the minima, are shown in red.
I used it when my HPFP broke and it was a breeze to figure out.
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
So the engine cranks but wont start but ran before you took it apart? If you have a high pressure fuel code thts current its best to start there. Perhaps you missed a step on reassembly like a cam postion sensor being plugged in or a fuel rail connector
 

prossett

Well-known member
I'd follow back the re-installation of all the stuff you took off to reach the oil cooler - there are a number of electrical connectors, one of which may not be seated properly.

It's a good place to start, I think, before jumping into troubleshooting a new issue. If it ran before, and now doesn't, I would expect it was something I touched during the oil cooler job.

Gluck, and keep us posted!
 
A crank no start? Sure. Cranking on its own forever like the starter relay is stuck? I don’t see the correlation.
mine would keep cranking on its own. that's what sprinters do. all three of mine crank on there own for awhile if it doesn't start. nothing is wrong with his electrical components. i don't know how you don't see the correlation with his fuel pressure sensor.
 

prossett

Well-known member
Also consider that you emptied the fuel rails to get at the oil cooler, and now there is no fuel in the lines - so, even if all is connected properly, the engine will need to turn over dry to get pumping fuel again.

I had to let the starter run a few times until it fired up after changing the oil cooler gasket.

Basically, it's as if you ran out of fuel.
 

Maslin

I've worked on a few vans
mine would keep cranking on its own. that's what sprinters do. all three of mine crank on there own for awhile if it doesn't start. nothing is wrong with his electrical components. i don't know how you don't see the correlation with his fuel pressure sensor.

A while, yes. I mentioned that earlier. He said it will just keep cranking until he turns the key off. It only cranks for like 8 seconds.

It takes 3 or 4 start cycles after you've had the fuel system apart, same with a new engine. There's a lot of air to blow through before pressures come up.
 
A while, yes. I mentioned that earlier. He said it will just keep cranking until he turns the key off. It only cranks for like 8 seconds.

It takes 3 or 4 start cycles after you've had the fuel system apart, same with a new engine. There's a lot of air to blow through before pressures come up.
idk, I feel like he should time it because it does seem like it'll crank forever but in reality they will crank for up to 15 seconds like my 2008 sprinter does. maybe he took the key out before reaching 15 seconds. Ive done the oil cooler seal six times and rebuilt the om642 twice. The van always starts on the second start cycle. Only once did the ECU shut off the engine because of no fuel in one injector. then on the third cycle all the fuel was bled and ran fine. if only he had a scanner. My cheap scanner can read the high pressure rail while starting. The ECU will not fire the injectors without sufficient pressure.
 
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Pixels2013

New member
A while, yes. I mentioned that earlier. He said it will just keep cranking until he turns the key off. It only cranks for like 8 seconds.

It takes 3 or 4 start cycles after you've had the fuel system apart, same with a new engine. There's a lot of air to blow through before pressures come up.

As for the fuel I used a syringe to fill up the fuel rail and lines till all the air came out the reconnected the
lines so all primed and shouldn't have any air in that system at all.
Aslo the old fuel pressure sensor broke unfortunately and i replaced it with a new one.

I am going to go through the fuel rail and double check everything. I was very meticulous in getting all wiring connections back together and i even used electronic cleaner to be sure there was a clean connection.
 
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