Sourcing or building brake lines

[JRiNVENTOR]

Hey gang,
I was beginning to work on replacing my rear brake hoses, calipers, and rotors today but the nuts on both rear brake lines that connect to the hydraulic brake hose are rusted and gone. I will need to replace the lines from what I believe is called the union(?) back to the rear calipers. The lines ahead of that union block were replaced a couple of years ago. I would rather source lines, but I see most people talking about fabricating new ones, maybe out of NiCopp and then using the Amazon tool to build them. Where do I source NiCopp? Can I get it locally? It’s intimidating but if it’s what must be done, then on with the horror show.
JRi

 

[JRiNVENTOR]

That is, both lines behind this junction block - I don’t know the name of it. The lines in front of it are fine.
JRi

 

[JRiNVENTOR]

Ok so looks like I’ll need to build two 4’ brake lines out of 3/16” NiCopp, and bubble flare the ends…sounds easy enough. I’ve read that I should secure them very well as they are flexible. I read one guy zip tied them to the old ones. Sounds crafty but also isn’t that kinda a bad move because you are hugging a rusting surface so can ignite rust? Thanks for any direction
JRi

 

[JRiNVENTOR]

Alrighty so. Here's where I stand for anybody in this predicament.
There are a couple solid enough threads about this so here is another.
- I will soak my fittings with shots of PB Blasters leading up to the delivery of my NiCu (aka NiCopp) brake line and Flare tool
NiCu Brake Line with Bubble Flare nuts and Bubble Flare Tool
- I will be replacing only the rearmost brake lines. I looked in the manual and wasn't able to find the junction block that I circled in the photo above. Towards the center of the circle, those are the brake lines coming from the front of the vehicle. To the left in the circle, you can see larger nuts that adapt into the brake lines that I will be building/replacing. These are each about 4' long to reach the caliper from this junction block.
- I'll unscrew these brake line nuts and plug the hole using these plugs to stop the flow of fluid while I deal with the rest of it. Brake Plugs
- I may have to get aggressive on the rubber hose side of the old brake line, which is also being replaced. It is completely rusted to hell.
- Cut new line to size, put new 10x1mm nuts on and use bubble flare tool to fabricate the brake line. I bought this (you may need more because I only needed 8ish feet total)
- Carefully bend the new brake line to the shape of the old one. I have to double check any snags under the vehicle but I think I am smooth sailing here...I'll check back...
- Complete Rotor & Caliper install with new rubber brake hose on caliper
- Bleed brakes

Here we go then
JRi

 

[Half Assed]

I did the same two rear lines at the axle with the copper lines. I bought some 3/16" off ebay with bubble flare fittings.

For the flare I technically didn't do the bubble flare right. I used a double flare tool, but only did the first flare to create the bubble shape. Then just threaded the fittings together and crossed my fingers with the hope the bubble would crush tight into the fittings. So far hasn't leaked and it's been 6 months.

This is the tool i used. I've never done brake flares before this so i practiced a few times first. I pulled the old lines out and put the new lines in the same clips. The copper lines bend easily by hand, but i didnt bend all the curves as tight as some of the original ones.

3/16" Car Brake Line Double Flaring Kit 45° Handheld Pipe Flares Tool w/ Storage | eBay

🌞 Multi-Purpose and Efficient: Designed to work with 3/16in brake line tubing, our double flaring tool ensures secure connections and minimizes slipping. Ideal for a wide range of automotive repairs, it makes brake line maintenance faster and more dependable.

ebay.us

I cut the old lines and bent them over instead of using plugs. Then had everything replaced and quickly swapped to the new lines and bled them immediately. Good luck.

 

[QwkTrip]

Brake tube is available at local auto store in various straight lengths with flares already made. They often keep it behind the counter where you cannot see it. If you have to cut it to length then at least that's one flare you don't have to make.

Maybe it's just because I'm looking at a photo and not in person, but those lines don't look bad in your photo in post #2, other than the tube nut has corrosion on it. I would not be afraid to reuse it. If you want to replace the tube nut then cut off the factory flare and replace the tube nut and re-flare. Might be easier than building out all new lines. If it ends up too short then you would need to build new lines.

 

[p3424]

When I replaced the steel line with copper nickle from the local stores, I thread the tube through the original fasteners, and made the bubble flare at the end next to the caliper, deleted all the intermediate flare couplings. .

The cut edge of the tubing is rolled into the actual surface of the flare; thus deburring and sanding the edges smooth is essential for the mating surfaces to seal properly. Practice and leave enough tubing before cutting in case you mess up.

 

[JRiNVENTOR]

Brake tube is available at local auto store in various straight lengths with flares already made. They often keep it behind the counter where you cannot see it. If you have to cut it to length then at least that's one flare you don't have to make.

Maybe it's just because I'm looking at a photo and not in person, but those lines don't look bad in your photo in post #2, other than the tube nut has corrosion on it. I would not be afraid to reuse it. If you want to replace the tube nut then cut off the factory flare and replace the tube nut and re-flare. Might be easier than building out all new lines. If it ends up too short then you would need to build new lines.

Yeah I didn’t show how corroded they are, I like your idea but I think they are too far gone. I’ll post some post-op pics