2006 Electronic Selector Lever Module - "Unknown Variant"

[Midwestdrifter]

Hard to say what caused the issue. It's possible the trans relay caused the TCM to not function right (low line pressure solenoid voltage?). Which resulted in the trans slipping and overheating a clutch? Could have also been loss of lube pressure, or just old age.

 

[Verino]

Hard to say what caused the issue. It's possible the trans relay caused the TCM to not function right (low line pressure solenoid voltage?). Which resulted in the trans slipping and overheating a clutch? Could have also been loss of lube pressure, or just old age.

Am I better off to cut my losses and replace the transmission? There's one not too far from me with 226k for $400.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

A good used trans will probably be cheaper than overhauling yours. At 220k a trans is in the twilight zone, but could provide years of good service still.

 

[Verino]

A good used trans will probably be cheaper than overhauling yours. At 220k a trans is in the twilight zone, but could provide years of good service still.

Looking at this thread - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/45933/ - it looks like the K2 clutch assembly is in the output end of the transmission. Is it possible to remove that assembly without removing the entire transmission? It seems like, if the bearing is the problem, it might be easier and potentially less expensive to just replace that than to replace the transmission, especially since I'm currently grounded. Plus I wouldn't have a transmission to dispose of.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Looking at this thread - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/45933/ - it looks like the K2 clutch assembly is in the output end of the transmission. Is it possible to remove that assembly without removing the entire transmission? It seems like, if the bearing is the problem, it might be easier and potentially less expensive to just replace that than to replace the transmission, especially since I'm currently grounded. Plus I wouldn't have a transmission to dispose of.

The only way to work on this transmission reasonably is to remove the entire assembly from the van. At which point you can separate the bell housing from the main case. Probably the simplest approach is to stand the transmission up on some wood blocks on the bell housing without the torque converter. Then pull the case up and off of the transmission exposing the entire gear stack. At which point you can separate the output shaft and it's clutches / gears and start your tear down in earnest.

If you have a place to work which is reasonably clean, it's entirely possible to perform all of this with basic hand tools.

ATSG has a great service manual which is available for free all over the internet. I've also posted a number of times but don't have it readily available to attach.

Most of the roller bearings integral to the clutch baskets are not replaceable. Instead you just source a new or used clutch basket. They aren't terribly expensive, in good used units were readily available on eBay a few years ago last I checked.

 

[Verino]

The only way to work on this transmission reasonably is to remove the entire assembly from the van. At which point you can separate the bell housing from the main case. Probably the simplest approach is to stand the transmission up on some wood blocks on the bell housing without the torque converter. Then pull the case up and off of the transmission exposing the entire gear stack. At which point you can separate the output shaft and it's clutches / gears and start your tear down in earnest.

If you have a place to work which is reasonably clean, it's entirely possible to perform all of this with basic hand tools.

ATSG has a great service manual which is available for free all over the internet. I've also posted a number of times but don't have it readily available to attach.

Most of the roller bearings integral to the clutch baskets are not replaceable. Instead you just source a new or used clutch basket. They aren't terribly expensive, in good used units were readily available on eBay a few years ago last I checked.

That sounds a little daunting, but the removal and reinstallation of the trans seems like the hardest part, or close to it. I'll do a little more research.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Yeah, removal can be a bit of work. Access on the sprinter is one of the best vehicles I have worked on for trans removal. You will need a decent trans jack.

 

[tom2turbo]

Ask a strong friend, in my case my loving son, to assist.

 

[Verino]

In

Ask a strong friend, in my case my loving son, to assist.

Good advice.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

See Manual attached.

 

[Verino]

In gathering information about this transmission, I found a PDF of an article titled "Mercedes 722.6 Series: Keeping it Simple" by Bill Brayton, from a publication called "Fun With Transmissions". It has a good description of the various assemblies in the NAG1. I includes this: "The K2 drum houses a bushing where the output shaft rides; later models have a bearing and seal. This bearing has been known to fail and wipe out the output shaft at the same time. There are bushings available from the aftermarket to replace the bearing if the output shaft is salvageable. If the output shaft must be replaced or repaired, the bearing part number is A 020 981 33 10. The part number for the teflon seal is A 140 272 27 55."

I haven't removed my transmission yet, so I don't know the condition of my output shaft. It seems to me that if that's been damaged, it might mean it would be better to scrap this transmission. My thinking as to replacing or repairing is mostly that, at least until this happened, I know how this transmission behaves, where a salvage transmission is a bit of a leap of faith. Also, with my van undriveable, it's difficult to source a replacement - the closest one is at least an hour away.

 

[Verino]

See Manual attached.

Thank you! I'm attaching the PDF I mentioned in my last post.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Most 722.6 made after 2001 share the majority of their internal hard parts. Sourcing a replacement output shaft is probably just as easy as going on eBay and ordering a used one. A donor from a 2000 to 2006 Jeep SUV with 722.6 will work just fine.

 

[Verino]

I removed the transmission today and plan to pull the shroud over the weekend to see what damage I find. Is there any chance that the 'won't move' problem might be in the torque converter? I haven't removed that, but if I need to, this is the time.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

I removed the transmission today and plan to pull the shroud over the weekend to see what damage I find. Is there any chance that the 'won't move' problem might be in the torque converter? I haven't removed that, but if I need to, this is the time.

While it's possible, generally speaking if the van won't move it all and the torque converter is to blame you will find a tremendous amount of debris in the pan.

I generally strongly advise to remove the torque converter and install it on the trans before attempting to reinstall. It's fairly easy to damage something if you try to install them on the engine separately.

 

[Verino]

I generally strongly advise to remove the torque converter and install it on the trans before attempting to reinstall. It's fairly easy to damage something if you try to install them on the engine separately.

Installing it on the trans means sliding it onto the shaft? I can see where trying to align the shaft with the hole in the torque converter would be very difficult with the TC bolted to the flywheel.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Yeah, the TC needs to be fully seated on the trans. There are three elements that need aligned, the input shaft, turbine collar/shaft, and the pump teeth. Only then can you install the trans without risking damage to any of them.

 

[OldblueAccord]

Installing it on the trans means sliding it onto the shaft? I can see where trying to align the shaft with the hole in the torque converter would be very difficult with the TC bolted to the flywheel.

Yes like said always re install with TQ in the trans. its very very easy to break the pump in the transmission other wise...dont ask my how I know...

 

[Verino]

Yeah roller bearing.

Good news is that it doesn't look like the trans had a full planetary collapse, so hopefully most of the hard parts are salvageable.

Is this possibly the culprit? It's hard to judge scale, but the rollers look similar to what I found stuck to my speed sensor. This photo is from a video tutorial showing a complete overhaul, but this bearing looks like it's fairly accessible and easy to replace.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Is this possibly the culprit? It's hard to judge scale, but the rollers look similar to what I found stuck to my speed sensor. This photo is from a video tutorial showing a complete overhaul, but this bearing looks like it's fairly accessible and easy to replace.

There are several roller bearings like that scattered throughout the gear stack. Pretty much all of them are readily accessible. Though some require you to remove some internal snap rings to separate the planetary gears.

I suspect if you were to check the end play on your input shaft, you would find it to be excessively high. This would be due to the collapse of one of the thrust bearings.

If the end play gets too high, the seal rings which transfer high pressure oil to the passageways drilled into the shafts may not align resulting in a failure to shift.