danski0224
Active member
Well, I finally decided to replace the fuel filter on my 2008. Probably not too many nice days like today until spring, and I am a little overdue at 25k miles on the original one...
There are a couple of writeups already, so I'll just add a little.
The little clip that holds the MAF sensor wires to the air filter box is a pain to pull off.
The torx fasteners that hold down the plastic cover under the filter box are simply 1/4 turn devices.
The water in fuel (WIF) sensor is easy to remove once the white clip piece is firmly squeezed and the assembly is twisted as it is pulled out (squeeze the rectangular end towards the center of the sensor. Do not squeeze/pry the small white clips). Note: The new fuel filter does not come with the green O ring for this step. I reused mine, and will need to order one for next time. The black piece with the wiring plug and 2 screws stays in place while the WIF is removed- leave the 2 screws in place until the WIF is loosened... then remove the screws... then the WIF sensor. Why? The screws are small and will fit into the opening of the filter if one is dropped.
I was able to undo the OE fuel line clamps with the plain fixed jaw specialty tool I bought for ~$25 USD. I did get 2 new clamps when I got the new filter, just in case. I used them and put the old ones in the love box with the removal tool. I'll probably put a 5mm hex key in there too.
The filter clamp needs a 5mm hex key. No need to actually remove the bolt. A key with a ball end is invaluable here. There is a small slot on the bracket for a screwdriver blade. Gently pry open, and the filter slides easily.
There are 2 rubber isolators on a black plastic line next to the fuel filter. I slid them out of the way and put them back. Moving them allows the filter to slide up easily.
A small dental pick type tool will slip under the rubber hoses and break the bond for easy removal. Use some common sense here.
The hose clamp tool has a removal position and installation position.
One side has a sharp jaw and the other side is more flat with a notch. The notched side fits over the nub on the clamp to unlock the clamp. You have to roll the latching side of the clamp slightly into the fixed portion of the clamp to unlock it.
To install, reverse the jaw position. The sharp side must fit into the nub on the fixed side of the clamp. This provides clearance to roll the locking tang over the fixed portion.
I turned the key 3 times to the run position to prime the new filter.
I set the airbox in place and connected the wires. Leaving the lower cover off temporarily made it easy to look for leaks.
The van started right up.
Lower cover and airbox properly installed.
Total time: about 30 minutes.
Diesel spillage: None.
If you can change your own oil, you can do this. Difficulty scale 1 to 10, with 10 being impossible: 3 - only because care must be given to some of the plastic parts.
Have fun.
Neither my new filter or the old one had a water drain. Is it somewhere else, or just something that was eliminated?
There are a couple of writeups already, so I'll just add a little.
The little clip that holds the MAF sensor wires to the air filter box is a pain to pull off.
The torx fasteners that hold down the plastic cover under the filter box are simply 1/4 turn devices.
The water in fuel (WIF) sensor is easy to remove once the white clip piece is firmly squeezed and the assembly is twisted as it is pulled out (squeeze the rectangular end towards the center of the sensor. Do not squeeze/pry the small white clips). Note: The new fuel filter does not come with the green O ring for this step. I reused mine, and will need to order one for next time. The black piece with the wiring plug and 2 screws stays in place while the WIF is removed- leave the 2 screws in place until the WIF is loosened... then remove the screws... then the WIF sensor. Why? The screws are small and will fit into the opening of the filter if one is dropped.
I was able to undo the OE fuel line clamps with the plain fixed jaw specialty tool I bought for ~$25 USD. I did get 2 new clamps when I got the new filter, just in case. I used them and put the old ones in the love box with the removal tool. I'll probably put a 5mm hex key in there too.
The filter clamp needs a 5mm hex key. No need to actually remove the bolt. A key with a ball end is invaluable here. There is a small slot on the bracket for a screwdriver blade. Gently pry open, and the filter slides easily.
There are 2 rubber isolators on a black plastic line next to the fuel filter. I slid them out of the way and put them back. Moving them allows the filter to slide up easily.
A small dental pick type tool will slip under the rubber hoses and break the bond for easy removal. Use some common sense here.
The hose clamp tool has a removal position and installation position.
One side has a sharp jaw and the other side is more flat with a notch. The notched side fits over the nub on the clamp to unlock the clamp. You have to roll the latching side of the clamp slightly into the fixed portion of the clamp to unlock it.
To install, reverse the jaw position. The sharp side must fit into the nub on the fixed side of the clamp. This provides clearance to roll the locking tang over the fixed portion.
I turned the key 3 times to the run position to prime the new filter.
I set the airbox in place and connected the wires. Leaving the lower cover off temporarily made it easy to look for leaks.
The van started right up.
Lower cover and airbox properly installed.
Total time: about 30 minutes.
Diesel spillage: None.
If you can change your own oil, you can do this. Difficulty scale 1 to 10, with 10 being impossible: 3 - only because care must be given to some of the plastic parts.
Have fun.
Neither my new filter or the old one had a water drain. Is it somewhere else, or just something that was eliminated?