Poll: Where would you mount your 30 A shore-power inlet?

Which is better? Exterior or Undermount

  • Exterior wall mount — standard RV style

    Votes: 10 47.6%
  • Hidden underbody mount — stealth install

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • Other creative placement (please explain)

    Votes: 7 33.3%
  • I don’t use shore power

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    21

Metrocruiser

Active member
⚙️ Option 1 – Exterior Wall Mount (Traditional RV port)
✅ Easy plug-in access
✅ “Factory RV” look if using Marinco/Furrion/SmartPlug
⚠️ Requires drilling through the van skin + careful sealing
⚠️ Slight thermal bridge and visible on the exterior




🧰 Option 2 – Hidden Under-Body Mount (behind driver rear wheel)
✅ Completely stealth — keeps exterior clean
✅ No holes through painted panels
⚠️ Harder to reach when plugging in
⚠️ Needs weatherproofing, drip-loop, and grommet protection


Exterior
1762933054929.png


1762933069430.png

Undermount
 

gas_sprinter

Well-known member
I ran a 10AWG extension cable through the passenger side firewall to connect the shore power.

I don't have DEF tank, since I have the gasoline engine Sprinter.

Edit: should have mentioned that lots of RV parks required to back in only, meaning I had to get the additional longer extension cord as it has to go from under the hood to the rear pedestal.
 

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Last edited:

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
First question is the need for 30 amps. What will you power with that much amperage? Air conditioner?

When working for the forest service I once drove off with the gas nozzle in the fill tube. That caused me to locate the shore power plug where I could see it before opening the driver door. Sprinter conversion was located under van on driver side. Transit conversion is located at the driver door. I found a path up into the "B" pillar and out above floor.

Install in Transit:

 

vreihen

🇺🇸 2014 NCV3 170" cargo with OM651
We put our 15A shore power inlet in the black body trim directly below the fuel filler door. That location gets your wire into the B-pillar, and there's a factory hole on the inside rear of the pillar to fish the wire through. All of our electrical stuff is right behind the driver seat, so wiring is very short and tidy for us.

Blah, blah, blah fuel explosion near electrical input, diesel doesn't explode, etc. I see that location as a safety improvement, since the driver is much less likely to forget to pull the shore power if they have to walk past it getting into the driver's seat.....

Screenshot 2025-11-12 at 12.13.12 PM.png
 
Last edited:

Kajtek1

1922 Ford T. No OBD
Each exterior plug will be prone to rust and dirt.
I had 30 amp cord stored the back of my shower and made an access hole in the floor, to pull the plug outside.
This way I pulled only the cord length, I needed, without dropping it into mud. The same system served also water hose.

20220921_131850.jpg

08625033_HATCHPOWERCORD_WHITE_B_w.png
 

Onhiatus

2018 Passenger 144 RWD
I value @vreihen point about the driver being unlikely to miss that the van is plugged in, but I did have the fuel / power mix reaction he called out. I love @Kajtek1's solution to not have extra cordage lying in the mud and snow, but I'm not sure about the ingress.

When I added our outlet I was too much of a wimp to cut through the side of the van, but I didn't want to have to be messing around underneath the van to plug in, and I wanted the results to look "good". We ended up drilling through the floor of the wall into the cavity that has an access hatch under the van. The port itself was mounted in the rear quarter panel trim (no cutting through the metal - just the plastic trim!) and the cord runs through the slam vent into the previously mentioned cavity. This was a great solution for us, and had the added benefit of when I had a port failure I was able to splice into the existing power line through the access hole instead of having to tear out my build of having a splice outside the van.

Note I only have a 15amp input - so cable is pretty manageable. ymmv

Pics from the repair - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/98293/post-1283799

Photo of the install location:
index.php
 

blutow

Well-known member
If you are connecting shore power regularly, I personally wouldn't put it under the chassis. The last thing I want to do is get on my hands and knees every time I connect/disconnect power (in the rain/mud/snow/etc.). And I don't understand what the stealth approach buys you, but different strokes for different folks.

We mounted our 30a smart plug in the traditional RV spot and have found that most camping spots with power are designed around the driver's side rear location. Nothing that couldn't be worked around with a long enough shore cord, but the short run just makes it tidy and we don't carry a long cord.

I do worry about driving off with the power attached, but I put a yellow cord wrap/tie around the steering wheel any time I connect power as a reminder to disconnect before starting the van. Otherwise, I know I'd eventually forget since we seldom connect to power and I rarely use my driver's side door to enter the van (I don't get a visual reminder seeing the cord on the driver's side and would probably miss it eventually even if I did use the door). I'm not one to blindly follow the "RV industry standard" for many things, but for us, the standard RV location works.

1762974548512.png
 

vreihen

🇺🇸 2014 NCV3 170" cargo with OM651
Otherwise, I know I'd eventually forget since we seldom connect to power and I rarely use my driver's side door to enter the van (I don't get a visual reminder seeing the cord on the driver's side and would probably miss it eventually even if I did use the door).

I really want to program the PSM so that it disables the starter if shore power is hot, but MB has made it almost impossible to get PSM programming assistance unless you're a major customizer and not a hobbyist.....
 

gas_sprinter

Well-known member
I even installed another yellow extension cable but in reverse direction to use the Anker Solix F3800 power station inside the van to power up our refrigerators during the power outage.
Screenshot_20251026-135747.png

(I used to move that thing in and out of the van when needed but moving 130lbs power station was getting a little too much.)


In case the untrimmed cable ties bother you, this is the adjustable cable ties where it can be undone and tied down again.
 
Last edited:

Shawn182

Well-known member
Outta the way, mostly hidden, and easy peasy to access without having to get on knees. Waterproof box and weather resistant marine connector.

Not gong for stealth but other than bunk windows I have zero penetrations on the sides for a clean look. Personally hate all the crap, doors, and plugs coming off the sides of most RVs and Camper Vans.

I put in a 30A cuz I have a rooftop AC but in reality with the Victron Multiplus Hybrid Inverter/Charger I have yet to ever actually plug into a 30a service in 5 years and would just put in a 20A standard input if I had to do it over. As it sands now I gotta use an adapter but that also acts as a break away safety and would just unplug at the Edison plug should I ever drive off while still plugged in (thankfully have had good habits of knowing when I am on shore power).
IMG_2209.JPG

Box (has gotten stupid expensive): https://www.mcmaster.com/75895K13/?...X2FkvJi1vl2gK-CAEWQEsXmChE22IcdmhprhJv_oTNpu0

Cable Gland for 10/3 SO: https://www.mcmaster.com/8302k191/

Connector: https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-303SSELBRV-Stainless-Steel-Power/dp/B004VRNM26/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3ZJN59NSXPNH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.f8AgYMorlEtNaI3FFynz2ICTd2cex6C-iggNJkOUAGe9GTiruIiKFwMO_HWCNCQ-ppOuZfmRGbMoXR6ptKmSFNI8-7RQBHXkCqmTWty0xrEIJgxS5v7jMPgSMHsECjp9C9YKSOkkM97N4L6Qyiyqhyw6qlX8l1YbSnJMeUpspK3jTAYSgyRAs_TJdnV4LxidkQ23chMN3b8OLuHVTUejjD31bFjCvxvTmKq_1WmlhKGSNjQ0nDc-5qx1ozuQofrhMBN5IGyrvJMjDMbEWNuntPZC_-cQ99teB6LWCpYKG3d3FR3SpkXpAfnxE8cStU73kv5kXf09MYeYiaukQk1ObELzZ5LY4fy70jgWO3Lb-0MRj1xwMoxFadLfqFT_lKAnmjlsokkuxGAHpaCZDE_ZmmMVat6jF7NQaA8rgZOoPtELWocmsXbgPvOJf4Wg8nfE.PoQAL-PQi0e3xI9jnolZWOqgv4h01XnVdyrAAlSWONo&dib_tag=se&keywords=Marinco+Shore+Power+Inlet&qid=1735532581&sprefix=,aps,226&sr=8-6&ufe=INHOUSE_INSTALLMENTS:US_IHI_3M_HARDLINES_AUTOMATED
 
Last edited:

Metrocruiser

Active member
Outta the way, mostly hidden, and easy peasy to access without having to get on knees. Waterproof box and weather resistant marine connector.

Not gong for stealth but other than bunk windows I have zero penetrations on the sides for a clean look. Personally hate all the crap, doors, and plugs coming off the sides of most RVs and Camper Vans.

I put in a 30A cuz I have a rooftop AC but in reality with the Victron Multiplus Hybrid Inverter/Charger I have yet to ever actually plug into a 30a service in 5 years and would just put in a 20A standard input if I had to do it over. As it sands now I gotta use an adapter but that also acts as a break away safety and would just unplug at the Edison plug should I ever drive off while still plugged in (thankfully have had good habits of knowing when I am on shore power).
View attachment 388610

Box (has gotten stupid expensive): https://www.mcmaster.com/75895K13/?...X2FkvJi1vl2gK-CAEWQEsXmChE22IcdmhprhJv_oTNpu0

Cable Gland for 10/3 SO: https://www.mcmaster.com/8302k191/

Connector: https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-303SSELBRV-Stainless-Steel-Power/dp/B004VRNM26/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3ZJN59NSXPNH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.f8AgYMorlEtNaI3FFynz2ICTd2cex6C-iggNJkOUAGe9GTiruIiKFwMO_HWCNCQ-ppOuZfmRGbMoXR6ptKmSFNI8-7RQBHXkCqmTWty0xrEIJgxS5v7jMPgSMHsECjp9C9YKSOkkM97N4L6Qyiyqhyw6qlX8l1YbSnJMeUpspK3jTAYSgyRAs_TJdnV4LxidkQ23chMN3b8OLuHVTUejjD31bFjCvxvTmKq_1WmlhKGSNjQ0nDc-5qx1ozuQofrhMBN5IGyrvJMjDMbEWNuntPZC_-cQ99teB6LWCpYKG3d3FR3SpkXpAfnxE8cStU73kv5kXf09MYeYiaukQk1ObELzZ5LY4fy70jgWO3Lb-0MRj1xwMoxFadLfqFT_lKAnmjlsokkuxGAHpaCZDE_ZmmMVat6jF7NQaA8rgZOoPtELWocmsXbgPvOJf4Wg8nfE.PoQAL-PQi0e3xI9jnolZWOqgv4h01XnVdyrAAlSWONo&dib_tag=se&keywords=Marinco+Shore+Power+Inlet&qid=1735532581&sprefix=,aps,226&sr=8-6&ufe=INHOUSE_INSTALLMENTS:US_IHI_3M_HARDLINES_AUTOMATED
I like this!
 

Bk3132

Member
I value @vreihen point about the driver being unlikely to miss that the van is plugged in, but I did have the fuel / power mix reaction he called out. I love @Kajtek1's solution to not have extra cordage lying in the mud and snow, but I'm not sure about the ingress.

When I added our outlet I was too much of a wimp to cut through the side of the van, but I didn't want to have to be messing around underneath the van to plug in, and I wanted the results to look "good". We ended up drilling through the floor of the wall into the cavity that has an access hatch under the van. The port itself was mounted in the rear quarter panel trim (no cutting through the metal - just the plastic trim!) and the cord runs through the slam vent into the previously mentioned cavity. This was a great solution for us, and had the added benefit of when I had a port failure I was able to splice into the existing power line through the access hole instead of having to tear out my build of having a splice outside the van.

Note I only have a 15amp input - so cable is pretty manageable. ymmv

Pics from the repair - https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/98293/post-1283799

Photo of the install location:
index.php
@Onhiatus did you have to remove the black trim panel or did you just drill right through and fish the cord?
 

SprinteR777

Member
I went with the traditional RV spot on the driver side and haven't regretted it - yeah you gotta drill through the van skin but the convenience of not crawling around under the van every time is worth it. Just make sure you seal it up real good with some butyl tape.
 

Onhiatus

2018 Passenger 144 RWD
@Onhiatus did you have to remove the black trim panel or did you just drill right through and fish the cord?
I removed it - but it was easy. Unscrew the corner pieces and it pops right off - seal the mounting points while you are there.

There are lots of things that I would do different if I started over, but I don't think this is one of them.
 

Motormad

Well-known member
I have installed mine underneath the van below the passenger door for visability. I use hookup twice a year (when solar is not enough to keep the battery fully charged in the winter), so don't mind the inconvenience for that frequency.
 

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