Should I just flush the brakes?
- Thread starter lister2
- Start date
Nautamaran
2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Is it #11 here:
11: fitting (not serviced) …with no part number provided. Which would suggest you’re hitting a wrecker for a used one?
lister2
Member
OK. That's new to me. I'll see what is available!
lister2
Member
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lister2
Member
After replacing all the brake lines and scavenging the brake proportioning valve, which was so rusted that it was falling apart, I started to flush the brakes.
It was so slow I removed the master cylinder for a 2nd bench bleed and found that the push rod in the brake booster had fallen out. I ended up trying to superglue it back in place but from the looks of it, maybe it was missing a plastic guard? Or I broke it pumping the brakes non-stop.
After the bleed my brakes work at least but the pedal is now permanently soft. I think the next step besides maybe rolling it off a cliff would be to replace the brake booster and the master cylinder. I just am not certain the MC is bad but I think I should replace both if I have to get the booster. It would probably cost nearly $400 altogether if I get the OEM part.
It was so slow I removed the master cylinder for a 2nd bench bleed and found that the push rod in the brake booster had fallen out. I ended up trying to superglue it back in place but from the looks of it, maybe it was missing a plastic guard? Or I broke it pumping the brakes non-stop.
After the bleed my brakes work at least but the pedal is now permanently soft. I think the next step besides maybe rolling it off a cliff would be to replace the brake booster and the master cylinder. I just am not certain the MC is bad but I think I should replace both if I have to get the booster. It would probably cost nearly $400 altogether if I get the OEM part.
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Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
The ABS module, if allowed to run dry, tends to hold a bit of air. A scanner bleed (ABS pump driven), or a pressure bleed from the reservoir, is often required to get a firm pedal.
Same goes for the master cylinder. You can perform a "bench bleed" but a pressure bleed may be enough though.
Same goes for the master cylinder. You can perform a "bench bleed" but a pressure bleed may be enough though.
lister2
Member
Yeah I neglected the house slam on the brakes method to bleed the ABS .
LowBudgetT1N
Well-known member
The yearly subscription one does, AP200M, it’s red and black. I threw mine in the trash after the subscription expired, never used the exceptional bleed function.
MaxiAP AP200C/H/M | Autel
www.autel.com
Maine-coast
Well-known member
Hi So what is part 10? I don't have them on my other t1n vans..but I have two of these up top on the MC and then there is another set under the van before the rear axle. My van is a 2005 3500
Kajtek1
1922 Ford T. No OBD
Don't think it will work.
Suppose in UK you can buy pressure kit, but I build mine from junk yard parts for about $3.
Brake reservoir cap from old BMW fits MB reservoir, when it has hole in the center.
I fit a small hose in it and on other end I installed tire valve cap.
I used 1 from old VW windshield washer, but "Fix a Flat" cans have such caps as well.
This way after sucking old fluid from reservoir, I topped it off with new one and using the attachment and I used spare tire with 30 psi in it, to put pressure into brake reservoir. Works like a charm and is not taking much garage space.
You only have to monitor the fluid level to not push the air via system.
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Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Gravity bleed works for everything but air stuck in MC or abs block.
az7000'
2007 Navion on a 2006 3500 chassis
Sounds good, if I dont screw up and introduce air I should be all good!
thanks!
I’d create something like above but just swapping to new fluid (good or bad idea??) so willing to let gravity do the work.
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
For routine fluid changes gravity is fine. For very old fluid and cleaning the abs block a pressure bleeder and abs activation is ideal.