Transmission nightmare

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
So replacing the cover plate didn't change anything?

If the high TC slip went away, and it just shifts poorly, that is probably due to the trans needing to adjust the TCC clutch adaptives to the unmodified TC clutch circuit.
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Looks like a child tried to drill that hole. Hopefully it will start shifting better for you. Did you change the fluid again?
lol yeah I thought so too. It looked terrible. I didn’t change the fluid again I reused what I had. This transmission has 0 miles on it and only had maybe 1 mile of driving poorly.
 

marzbomber888

Active member
So replacing the cover plate didn't change anything?

If the high TC slip went away, and it just shifts poorly, that is probably due to the trans needing to adjust the TCC clutch adaptives to the unmodified TC clutch circuit.
Sorry, I worded that wrong. It did it definitely stays in gear but one and two are a little sketchy. I think it just needs time to adapt. I reset the adaptive again, but I’ve only driven down the road.
 

marzbomber888

Active member
That hole looks mighty BIG.
Should be a #55 drill size TOPS.
Dennis
It has to be a number 55. There’s no other options. Heard that straight from Doctor a today. I actually called him to try to see if he could give me an idea of what it is and he said it was very odd that anybody should be doing that mod to a brand new transmission. I’m sure they’re supposed somewhere but he said he clearly stated that very very few people should try this.

I should add Dennis a long time ago. I looked at your certified Transmissions post about how you use those I actually called the local dealer. Our transmissions are still available and actually cheaper than getting one from certified
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Several comments are pertinent,
The DARF mod was introduced to eliminate rumble strip noises on EARLY Sprinters.
Later renditions have made the modification obsolete.,

Faced with similar situations as yours we have simply filled the hole with a blob of braze on the OUTSIDE face.
Thus going back to standard.

As will ALL modern transmissions, not just Sprinters, it is essential to reset the MAF and also to ensure engine smooth running to enjoy gear shift quality .PLUS of course the transmission itself!

As for pricing always remember you only get what you pay for INCLUDING WARRANTY terms and conditions, Equally PRODUCT SUPPORT post sale is important with nationwide coverage as a total package must be taken into consideration.
Sometimes lost by the layman, but YOU the customer are paying for that warranty support (or lack of it) in the total invoice pricing.
Dennis
 
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marzbomber888

Active member
Another update I drove the van and it has a weird overrated type thing when basically you’re driving and you have a decent load on it you let off in the RPMs jump up. It did not do this previously on any transmission I’ve ever had in this van nor did it on the last van I had

One and two still feel very “loose” three and four are great and five is very solid as well too meaning it feels like the torque converter is fully locking giving me the most power possible. I am still waiting for a replacement valve body to see if that solves the last of my issues which I really hope it does.

I should add that swapping to a computer that has not had its adaptive reset although it’s a different part number, but still came out of a T1N it shifts differently between the two. It has a very hard shift between one and two like the last transmission did. It’s starting to make a little rumble strip noise but that’s very mild.
Will update more later!
 

schwarzwaldsprinter

Active member
Will be interesting to hear what you will end up with.
My transmission on my 2004 just gave out. The valve body is only about 40k miles old. I am looking for a good transmission shop in the Dallas/Fort Worth area.
If anyone knows one, please let me know.
Thanks.
Sven
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Will be interesting to hear what you will end up with.
My transmission on my 2004 just gave out. The valve body is only about 40k miles old. I am looking for a good transmission shop in the Dallas/Fort Worth area.
If anyone knows one, please let me know.
Thanks.
Sven
Dennis from Linden engineering swears by the certified Transmissions but they’re over $5000 which is very expensive.

You can go directly to your dealer and pay about 4500 for a new one, but that doesn’t come to the torque converter

There’s a couple of builders across the US that are familiar with our Transmissions and are able to do it I believe there is someone in Texas who used to do quite a bit of them but I think they’re also in that five to $6000 range which is in my opinion way too much

You can go with a junkyard reman, which is what I did initially I paid $500 for it and it lasted me a year and it still does work. I just would constantly get a limp mode maybe once a week so I thought it would be time to put something brand new in.

you can message Kansas City sprinters they usually have a good stock of used ones but they’re pricing is extremely high for them I’ve gotten a few parts in a pinch from them that have all been good and are still working after five years I was very unhappy with the price though
 

schwarzwaldsprinter

Active member
Dennis from Linden engineering swears by the certified Transmissions but they’re over $5000 which is very expensive.

You can go directly to your dealer and pay about 4500 for a new one, but that doesn’t come to the torque converter

There’s a couple of builders across the US that are familiar with our Transmissions and are able to do it I believe there is someone in Texas who used to do quite a bit of them but I think they’re also in that five to $6000 range which is in my opinion way too much

You can go with a junkyard reman, which is what I did initially I paid $500 for it and it lasted me a year and it still does work. I just would constantly get a limp mode maybe once a week so I thought it would be time to put something brand new in.

you can message Kansas City sprinters they usually have a good stock of used ones but they’re pricing is extremely high for them I’ve gotten a few parts in a pinch from them that have all been good and are still working after five years I was very unhappy with the price though
Thank you so much for your reply - very helpful.
I will take it to Eagle Transmission in Denton, TX to have it diagnosed first. They stated that they have that capability. For $160 I think that is fair and will know a lot more what is actually faulty. Then have to see if they can repair that fault and at what price. I will know more in a few days and will report back here. I think it is always interesting to know (at least to me) what the outcome is.

Sven
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
I don't see a darf mod hole causing the shifting your describing. It sounds like an internal mechanical issue and the builder is just looking for reasons for you to spend time diagnosing it. Perhaps the 1st transmission put metal through the system and TC which killed the 2nd one.
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Sorry for not responding earlier, but 90% of the problems have been solved. It turns out that the extreme slipping was actually caused by incorrect rubble and strip mod crew after speaking with Doctor a (Andy) it turns out that so many people are over using this to try to solve an issue that sometimes isn’t an issue

The trans builder who all remain anonymous for now apparently it has been doing this to a lot of different Transmissions and Hope of not having people come back to rumble strip according to Doctor a the newer valve bodies have solved this issue in the newer Transmissions don’t have this problem

So two transmissions later, three valve bodies later and a shit ton of fluid and a a ridiculous amount of wasted time and two months and a few days I have a new transmission installed and it seems to be working. OK I’m still not happy with the shift quality after doing multiple adaptation, resets, and trying different transmission, computers. The transmission that came out that was actually starting to slip in the fluid was black as motor oil actually shifted and drove when it was not in limp mode was as good as this one

Again, thanks everybody for all the help hopefully your next rebuilt transmission is a lot better than mine
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Here’s an update for everyone. I’ve been away and I finally got some time to really put some miles on it. This thing is junk. The torque converter will not lock up in the proper areas. It feels like I’m driving a CVT transmission sometimes and other times it’ll lock so early that I’m lugging up a hill and have to floor it to get it to downshift. This has been an absolute nightmare. I’m hoping to get another valve body, but this time one from a Mercedes dealer and see if that will fix this once and for all.

If anybody has any other ideas or places that do remanufactured transmission for our vans that would be great.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Just an abject question?
Have you not contemplated the idea of presenting the van for some expert repair, thus saving yourself from all this brain damage and then writing about it.
Let alone throwing parts at it?+$$$$$$---ending up as junk as you put it!

AND
Out of interest WHO is instilling these transmissions---YOU?
Dennis
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Just an abject question?
Have you not contemplated the idea of presenting the van for some expert repair, thus saving yourself from all this brain damage and then writing about it.
Let alone throwing parts at it?+$$$$$$---ending up as junk as you put it!

AND
Out of interest WHO is instilling these transmissions---YOU?
Dennis
I may not have been clear. I’ve only spent the cost of the replacement transmission plus fluid. I’ve done about five transmissions altogether in sprinters and probably about 50ish in all the other cars I worked on in my lifetime. The problem is not me. The problem is the person who is building the valve bodies or maybe to torque converter. We have not figured that out yet. I’ve been told by a couple builders that these things can be incredibly finicky but the other Transmissions that they do even though they are still 99% the same don’t get as many problems as the sprinters do. I’m being sent a factory valve body hopefully this week and they believe that should fix all of the weird torque converter lock up issues that I’m having.

Do you have any other suggestions except throw money and hope?
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Well I have many, but try at first to use a transmission builder with a solid reputation that will back up their worth with a comprehensive warranty.
So top of the pile is an MB factory exchange unit with nationwide support.
Next Consolidated Transmissions.
Then Jasper.
Not throwing money about really, but investing a quality product you can rely on.
So now to you!
Are you installing these units as a DIY'r or a Pro Tech.?
BECAUSE from your own admission you are a green installer.


As business owner I want to employ competent techs , some are yes Youtube Grads and Wannabees that can pass a basic practical trade test and pass a theory test by verbal interview .before that is, I let him/her loose on a customer's rig ! An Oh Me Gawd Moment
So I throw this out to interviewees.
So You have removed the defective transmission
What salient steps do you take when installing the replacement?
Important because I don't want to hear from a dissatisfied customer that I*/We installed Junk.AND I like to sleep at night! :love: :idunno:
Dennis
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Well I have many, but try at first to use a transmission builder with a solid reputation that will back up their worth with a comprehensive warranty.
So top of the pile is an MB factory exchange unit with nationwide support.
Next Consolidated Transmissions.
Then Jasper.
Not throwing money about really, but investing a quality product you can rely on.
So now to you!
Are you installing these units as a DIY'r or a Pro Tech.?
BECAUSE from your own admission you are a green installer.


As business owner I want to employ competent techs , some are yes Youtube Grads and Wannabees that can pass a basic practical trade test and pass a theory test by verbal interview .before that is, I let him/her loose on a customer's rig ! An Oh Me Gawd Moment
So I throw this out to interviewees.
So You have removed the defective transmission
What salient steps do you take when installing the replacement?
Important because I don't want to hear from a dissatisfied customer that I*/We installed Junk.AND I like to sleep at night! :love: :idunno:
Dennis
I’d also appreciate you not being so condescending. That doesn’t help anyone
 

marzbomber888

Active member
Back again with another update factory valve body has been installed and it’s definitely a little bit better but where the torque converter locks up is still all over the place. It slips well it’s not supposed to lock up at times I think is a little bit too early. Basically what happens is if I’m just cruising along and I need to quickly give it some throttle like let’s say 70%. The RPMs jump up and the thing barely moves and then three or four seconds after I’ve done that the RPM start dropping as the torque converter starts to lock and then finally they drop to where they should be in the torque converter fully locked in. Then when letting off the throttle if I do it quickly, the RPMs jump up about three or 400. I reset the adaptations yet again when putting in the valve body.



I’m not sure what else to do at this point as the valve body and conductor plate in all the solenoids have been changed with new ones(at least that’s what the builder said). Again, this is not my first time installing any of these parts and I’m very confident that I can do this at an expert level

should I just attempt to get my money back or is it worth it to try something crazy like asking for a factory torque converter? I’m a little bit hesitant to do that is that would require removing the transmission and I would just like to put in a known good unit at this point. The last transmission I put in the van cost me $500 and lasted two years. Before going into limp mode. This one has never once gotten into limp mode, which is great.
 

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