I agree with Cheyenne. On any vehicle I've owned, I just abandon any difficult areas and route around. Typically, I've found the long run from front to back rusts out first. I leave the old line attached and cut off at either end of the repair and use tye wraps at the frame/body clip points to secure the new line. If the lines are rusted, usually the clips are too. And fooling with them too much, causes them to break off. I never try to match the OEM bends if I don't need to and any universal line length that's too long, I just loop or create extra radius to take up the extra length. I route new lines tucked up to avoid being caught/snagged by whatever on the road. I'm not building a show car. Never had a problem in 40+ years of working on my vehicles. But I can understand that if you're paying a garage, the expectation is a close to OEM installation and the signature of professional work.
And I'm a big propionate of proactive rust proofing!! I've used wheel bearing grease cut with used motor oil, brushed
on the lines with a paint brush for years or lately I've used that new product by PB Blaster called Surface Shield. I'd like to explore the Fluid Film method Midwestdrifter suggested (I don't mind black oily mess on my undercarriage). My lines typically last 20yrs before replacement. My vehicles sit outside uncovered too.