Getting hot going up hills

az7000'

2007 Navion on a 2006 3500 chassis
I tried a ring fan from a different model sprinter, driving from Flag to Phoenix, net downhill but a big climb in the middle and it couldn’t keep up. Ran hot all across the board.
Swapped back in my sisters driveway.
I ordered it from a dealer up in the Bay Area and they made me agree that wouldn’t take it back no matter what. They were smart.
 

Mastashake

Active member
I just installed a Febi from SD Europarts. Van seems to be running at a more consistent temp. Curious to see how long it lasts.

When the old one failed it dumped all its viscous fluid in a way that made me think I had a trans cooler leak. It was dripping right on the lines. I'm glad it wasnt because at some point an incorrect cooler line was installed. The part number on the line is a MBZ part for an NCV3.
 

Dylanear

Active member
Where is your shop. My van high temperature light came on this weekend twice coming back from Mammoth. I just changed the thermostat and changed the fluid, but it seems it is not the problem. The fan clutch seems to be working. I did the test with the paper to see if it would stop the fan and it definitely keep at it. Radiator looks fine. Temperature got up to 248. I have a 2008 3500 RV. This was going up a hill in hot 90 degree air.

It never used to do this so, something is definitely not working properly. How can tell if the fan clutch is working properly? Could it be the water pump?

Thanks

"My van high temperature light came on this weekend twice coming back from Mammoth."

I see you say you have a 2008?

Do T1Ns have any high temperature light? I don't see one here on this list of warning lights??


Will any especially high coolant temp ever trigger a CEL alone, or does there need to be some resulting other problem from overheating before a CEL lights up??

I saw 240F on my Sprinter once before I did my whole cooling system replacement! The van stalled?!!!! I looked and saw 240F on a generic OBD display screen I have and my HEART SANK. I opened the hood and there was steam and I was SURE I had a full engine replacement or at least head replacement in my future!!! But put in around 2 gallons of water I happened to have and after waiting for a cool down, she started and ran fine. I was VERY dismayed there was no light that I noticed before this happened! Turns out my coolant level sensor was bad! I was losing coolant and I never really found an explanation where it was going?! But levels have stayed perfect and consistent since all the new parts have been in and no especially alarming temperatures have been seen. I may have gotten to 220 once up a steep hill towing, but may have only been 215? Really never see over 212 215 max going up hills towing on a hot day now, I do drop to 3rd gear and keep RPMs up and that seems to help keep coolant temps down.
 

Dylanear

Active member
I never tested my old fan clutch before replacing it (with a Febi Bilstein from Europarts) and really wish I had. I think that may have been part of my overheating before replacing pretty much everything cooling related all at once, leaving me really clueless as to where my problems had been coming from.

Anyone know if I can test my old fan clutch in any useful way without it being on the engine or having fan blades on it?

I guess I could take it apart and see if it still has fluid in it? But any way to judge if it was low on fluid? How much should be in there?
 

az7000'

2007 Navion on a 2006 3500 chassis
I never tested my old fan clutch before replacing it (with a Febi Bilstein from Europarts) and really wish I had. I think that may have been part of my overheating before replacing pretty much everything cooling related all at once, leaving me really clueless as to where my problems had been coming from.

Anyone know if I can test my old fan clutch in any useful way without it being on the engine or having fan blades on it?

I guess I could take it apart and see if it still has fluid in it? But any way to judge if it was low on fluid? How much should be in there?
Not really other then a fan tach and I dont think anyone builds them anymore.


IMG_1925.jpeg
 

schwarzwaldsprinter

Active member
On my 2004 T1N the water pump was leaking. So I removed the entire radiator stack minus the condenser, replaced the water pump and the thermostat (with housing), and the viscous clutch. I did take apart the entire cooling stack to check for debris (not much present, as I had done that a few years back when I changed the condenser).
The result was impressive (see picture), as the displayed temp was way below what I have gotten used to when running both A/Cs.
It was 100 degrees here in Dallas yesterday and the temp stayed steady the entire 1 hour drive.
Shows what difference some Maintenace and a bit money does. As always, I got all parts from Europarts in CA.
 

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