Using 80/20

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Hi George, Thank you for the link to your pictures.

Are the Fiberglass angle pieces installed directly on the ceiling mounts or did you install another T-slot on the ceiling?

I am wondering if I can eliminate the T slot under the 80/20 completely to bring down the cost but would rather install it if it helps provide better support.
Yes, the sandwich is roof ribs <> headliner <> fiberglass angle.

You can attach lower outer beam directly to sheet metal like I did my 1/5” x 0.75” 80/20 profile using for example bolts and t-nuts. But I would suggest to place a thermal break like 3/8” thick fiberglass or other insulating material to prevent heat transfer. Aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. Dave learned this first hand and shared it on this forum a while back, I followed his recommendation with thermal break.
 

Rtarannum

New member
Yes, the sandwich is roof ribs <> headliner <> fiberglass angle.
Thanks! Assuming I can do this on the ceiling and the wall? Is there a specific reason you installed the T slot under the headliner on the wall (above the window)?

Si in short I will need 3 10 feet 1502-LS to make the overhead shelves across the driver side of 144 WB? Obviously I will need additional small pieces to make cabinets. is that correct?

You can attach lower outer beam directly to sheet metal like I did my 1/5” x 0.75” 80/20 profile using for example bolts and t-nuts. But I would suggest to place a thermal break like 3/8” thick fiberglass or other insulating material to prevent heat transfer. Aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. Dave learned this first hand and shared it on this forum a while back, I followed his recommendation with thermal break.
I will definitely plan to get the fiberglass angle for thermal break. Where did you guys buy it? Did you source your 8020 slots from MaMaster or 8020 directly?

8020 site downt let us order 10feet whereas McMaster does.
 
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GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Thanks! Assuming I can do this on the ceiling and the wall? Is there a specific reason you installed the T slot under the headliner on the wall (above the window)?

Si in short I will need 3 10 feet 1502-LS to make the overhead shelves across the driver side of 144 WB? Obviously I will need additional small pieces to make cabinets. is that correct?

I will definitely plan to get the fiberglass angle for thermal break. Where did you guys buy it? Did you source your 8020 slots from MaMaster or 8020 directly?

8020 site downt let us order 10feet whereas McMaster does.
I needed to fill the space between the sheet metal and the headliner with a strong material. Certainly could be done in many different ways.

80/20 from local distributor and later directly from the factory. Fiberglass angle from McMaster Carr. My longest piece was 113" from factory via local distributor.
 

Rtarannum

New member
Thanks for all the info!!! This conversation has given me enough confidence to dive in.

I just found out I have a local distributor that sells the 8020 in max 145 inch lenghts. That works great for me. YAY!

I have seen people use the regular L bracket connect the 8020 instead of corner anchor brackets (4.75$ a piece). Do you see cons to that?



I needed to fill the space between the sheet metal and the headliner with a strong material. Certainly could be done in many different ways.

80/20 from local distributor and later directly from the factory. Fiberglass angle from McMaster Carr. My longest piece was 113" from factory via local distributor.
 
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GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Thanks for all the info!!! This conversation has given me enough confidence to dive in.

I just found out I have a local distributor that sells the 8020 in max 145 inch lenghts. That works great for me. YAY!

I have seen people use the regular L bracket connect the 8020 instead of corner anchor brackets (4.75$ a piece). Do you see cons to that?
Corner bracket #4302 is $2.95 and is good enough for most applications. I used primarily 80/20 internal and external fasteners, external ones are fully anodized, no time needs to be spent in cutting and drilling. But, if you want to save money not time then I see nothing wrong with that route, I assume this was your question.

Just noticed your question was about anchor bracket, to attain rigidity of the overhead cabinets I would recommend anchor fastener which requires machining, I had machining done at the factory, Asimba2 did machining in his garage.
 
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Rtarannum

New member
Just noticed your question was about anchor bracket, to attain rigidity of the overhead cabinets I would recommend anchor fastener which requires machining, I had machining done at the factory, Asimba2 did machining in his garage.
Machining is required on the 8020 rails to accomodate the fasteners, correct? I wish I knew how to tag asimba2 to check how he did machining for them.

What is the part called on picture #42? They will be great to mount some shades.
 
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Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
You can not use the standard 80/20 series 15 brackets with carriage bolts. The nuts will hit each other. Very simple to make your own 90 degree angles from 3/16" x 1 1/2" extruded aluminum. Just chop to length and drill two holes 1" from the apex and deburr. There is a lot of slop in slots so holes do not need to be machined just drilled.

Details below on how and where to make your own parts will save you money and time. No waiting for UPS. I used some 80/20 connectors but made most of the ones as I built. Need a connector? Just make one in about 15 minutes and continue on with the job.


https://www.ortontransit.info/using-80-20-1

The drawings explain where connector is used. Print PDF drawings on 11" x 18" paper.

George and I have a different philosophy on make or order parts. Pick what works best for you.
 

Rtarannum

New member
I bought the diablo metal blade for my chop saw to do the cutting. I also have drill press that i can use to make the corner brackets. I bought 10 from the store but will need a lot more. What about the screws? Are they standard 5/16th?

Assuming the flages can be done by buying 11/16th aluminum bar and cut to size?

You can not use the standard 80/20 series 15 brackets with carriage bolts. The nuts will hit each other. Very simple to make your own 90 degree angles from 3/16" x 1 1/2" extruded aluminum. Just chop to length and drill two holes 1" from the apex and deburr. There is a lot of slop in slots so holes do not need to be machined just drilled.

Details below on how and where to make your own parts will save you money and time. No waiting for UPS. I used some 80/20 connectors but made most of the ones as I built. Need a connector? Just make one in about 15 minutes and continue on with the job.


https://www.ortontransit.info/using-80-20-1

The drawings explain where connector is used. Print PDF drawings on 11" x 18" paper.

George and I have a different philosophy on make or order parts. Pick what works best for you.
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
I bought the diablo metal blade for my chop saw to do the cutting. I also have drill press that i can use to make the corner brackets. I bought 10 from the store but will need a lot more. What about the screws? Are they standard 5/16th?

Assuming the flages can be done by buying 11/16th aluminum bar and cut to size?
The bought angles do not work with standard 5/16"-18NC carriage bolts. The slot profile is made for the carriage bolt. Buy the bolts from local industrial supply house. I used 308 SS fasteners and stop nuts. Stop nuts eliminate the lock washer. Most connections done with 3/4" long carriage bolts.

Read the web site "using 80/20". It will make sense after a bit.

Flat connections are done with 5/16" x 1 1/4" flatbar. The 1 1/4" dimension keeps the connector edge away from the extrusion edge. Extrusion has 1/8" radius so flatbar is not touching anything on the edges anyway.

Two words of warning:

1. Always clamp the extrusions in the saw. Can get exciting and messy if you do not.

2. Always use a thread lubricant with SS bolts. They will gall if you do not.
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Most of Flanged rounded button heads bolts 5/16"-18 and 1/4"-20 I purchased in bulk from the MacMaster Carr, way less expensive. Consider SS bolts and pick correct length. T-nuts primarily from 80/20.
McMaster-Carr is more expensive than an Industrial bolt supplier. They are an excellent and fast supplier but not inexpensive.
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
I didn't check local suppliers but bolts and nuts from McMaster are way less expensive than from 80/20. Masters sells in volume and 80/20 doesn't so this could be the reason.
McMaster-Carr is less expensive than 80/20 but industrial fastener supplier was considerably less than McMaster-Carr. Maybe just a legacy from my SS conveyor fabrication business?
 

ThomD

Member
I used tnutz.com for most 80/20 styled bolts and connectors. I made some of my own brackets, but the further I got into the process, the less I wanted to spend time on making little bits. But, sometimes you do need to just make something odd.
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
What type of panels did you guys use for the overhead cabinet doors?
None. No noise, no weight, no cost, more storage and far easier access.

Used baskets instead.

https://www.ortontransit.info/upper-rear

To access contents just tilt basket down and reach in. Most of the time it is not necessary to remove basket. Higher content because items do not fall out when opening doors.

Not as attractive but more useful.
 
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