pfflyer
Well-known member
Would a 1/4-20 nylon pan head screw slide in the profile? If so what about that and an eye nut.
https://www.mcmaster.com/94735a762
https://www.mcmaster.com/94735a762
Using 80/20
- Thread starter Graphite Dave
- Start date
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Based on my experience it would bind /cockeyed, each “hook would have to moved individually. I grab the end of the curtain and “hooks” slide freely.
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I use them for hanging jackets.
Attachments
There could be a market for those curtain hangers. I'll have to see if I can make some up myself, unless you are interested in making a little money to build some up.
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Sorry, I am retired.
There are some fantastic designs and ideas in this thread. I'm new to 80/20 and have a question for the experts here -
I have a CCV pop top with unistrut channels running as 'roof rails'. I have been looking for ways to have a flexible roof rack system and haven't come up with any reason why the following won't work: Use black quarter round (p/n 25-2527-Black-FB for example) as crossbars between the unistrut. Two solar panels would fit side to side and could be attached flush to top edge of the quarter round for a relatively wind-noise free panel install.
Couple of questions: This would require attaching the 80/20 to Unistrut with 90deg flush mount if possible, just like a regular cross bar without the need for a tower. Would this be as simple as attaching an angle/corner connector such as 25-4136-Black with appropriately sized unistrut nut?
Would vibration be an issue in this loosening up over time? I'm wondering why I don't see any of this type of design on the forums, it seems like I'm not thinking of some sort of downside that people with more knowledge thought better of this type of connection.
Edit: do 5/16-18 .75" carriage bolts work in the 15 series to just slide in and tighten with nylon lock nuts?
Thanks, and LMK if a really bad MS paint is needed to visualize this.
I have a CCV pop top with unistrut channels running as 'roof rails'. I have been looking for ways to have a flexible roof rack system and haven't come up with any reason why the following won't work: Use black quarter round (p/n 25-2527-Black-FB for example) as crossbars between the unistrut. Two solar panels would fit side to side and could be attached flush to top edge of the quarter round for a relatively wind-noise free panel install.
Couple of questions: This would require attaching the 80/20 to Unistrut with 90deg flush mount if possible, just like a regular cross bar without the need for a tower. Would this be as simple as attaching an angle/corner connector such as 25-4136-Black with appropriately sized unistrut nut?
Would vibration be an issue in this loosening up over time? I'm wondering why I don't see any of this type of design on the forums, it seems like I'm not thinking of some sort of downside that people with more knowledge thought better of this type of connection.
Edit: do 5/16-18 .75" carriage bolts work in the 15 series to just slide in and tighten with nylon lock nuts?
Thanks, and LMK if a really bad MS paint is needed to visualize this.
Last edited:
mrshowtime3
New member
How are you guys using Carraige bolts with this 15 series 80/20? I went to put my bed frame together and it doesnt come close to working.
I have 5/16 x 18 bolts that are 3/4 inch long. The shortest ive come across. I have corner brackets from Tnutz. Its impossible for me to fit a lock nuts on each bolt. Just not nearly enough clearance between the two bolts. Is the carriage bolt idea something that only works if I make my own corner brackets with the holes drilled farther apart?
For this project I will have to just use the other method with the roll in t nuts I guess
I have 5/16 x 18 bolts that are 3/4 inch long. The shortest ive come across. I have corner brackets from Tnutz. Its impossible for me to fit a lock nuts on each bolt. Just not nearly enough clearance between the two bolts. Is the carriage bolt idea something that only works if I make my own corner brackets with the holes drilled farther apart?
For this project I will have to just use the other method with the roll in t nuts I guess
mrshowtime3
New member
Thanks. Guess I will be returning some lock nuts and bolts lol.
Im ordering t-nuts and new bolts. Is stainless steel bad to use with aluminum or zinc?
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
Correct. That is one reason I made my own angle connectors. Holes must be 1" from the apex to use carriage bolts. Prefer to use carriage bolts because the connection is more robust than other choices. Other benefits of making your own connectors is cost and no waiting for deliveries. Also used 3/16" thickness instead of the 80/20 supplied 1/4". See connector "A" in the link.
https://www.ortontransit.info/using-80-20-1
The link has other fabricated connectors. Drawings are downloadable PDF and can be printed.
Another thing is to use the two hole economy nuts when you want a treaded hole. Put a 3/8" long set screw in one hole to hold the nut in place and use the second hole for the attachment. If you want to bolt something where you do not want your part to rotate use a three hole economy nut with the set screw in the center hole. The economy nut are about 1/3 the cost of the rollin nuts and provide a much more robust connection.
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
No grinding but the angle holes need to be 1" from the apex instead of 3/4". Made my own angles so I could use carriage bolts.
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
No problem with SS bolts in aluminum extrusions. I had 80/20 rails on my pickup bed and used SS fasteners. Truck was never garaged and after 10+ years did not see any problems. Used carriage bolts in the extrusions with a nylon spacer between the extrusion and the female eye bolt for a movable tie down. Nylon after 5-6 years did show some weather affects.
HighPockets
Active member
I have never seen this mentioned in discussions of 80/20 (maybe I missed it) but while browsing the big catalog of 80/20 products I came across "spring detents" pkg of 100 for $7. (item #3010) They fit on the economy nuts and hold the nut where ever you slide it too. Very big help on the vertical members. Also the 15S end fastener" part #3380, is hidden and saves two angles, comes with screws. It does require drilling a hole and requires some accuracy as it can't be moved. Definitely has a place is some 80/20 builds.
Gene
p.s. Maybe a list of consolidated hints for 80/20 may be in order. Yes I have read Dave's build thread - several times.
Gene
p.s. Maybe a list of consolidated hints for 80/20 may be in order. Yes I have read Dave's build thread - several times.
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
With the economy nuts you just put a bolt in the threaded hole you will use and a set screw in the other hole. Move the economy nut with the bolt head to where you want it. Then tighten the set screw in the other hole to lock the economy nut in place. Makes locating the economy nut in a vertical slot easy. Putting a bolt in the hole to move the nut also assures you that the hole will be aligned in slot so your attachment bolt will fit through the slot and thread into the nut. If you do not use a bolt, the economy nut threaded hole may not be centered in the slot
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I used #3010 springs very often as well as #3380 and one sided #3389 to allow panel insertion.I have never seen this mentioned in discussions of 80/20 (maybe I missed it) but while browsing the big catalog of 80/20 products I came across "spring detents" pkg of 100 for $7. (item #3010) They fit on the economy nuts and hold the nut where ever you slide it too. Very big help on the vertical members. Also the 15S end fastener" part #3380, is hidden and saves two angles, comes with screws. It does require drilling a hole and requires some accuracy as it can't be moved. Definitely has a place is some 80/20 builds.
Gene
p.s. Maybe a list of consolidated hints for 80/20 may be in order. Yes I have read Dave's build thread - several times.
I never head corrosion issue using SS bolts on aluminum extrusions, aluminum is anodized (a layer of aluminum oxide) to prevent corrosion.
This thread has been great to educate myself. I am very new to the whole 80/20 and it seems complex to understand but seems so much better than building out of wood. So I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6nhFHU1qxU&t=23s. He is mounting his first 8020 using L brackets (he created) and mounting that ont he slots that are on the van.
It looks simple enough but I am concerned there are a lot of things that happened that he doesnt talk about to ensure the overhead cabinet stays there.
Has anyone mounted the 8020 directly without a T-slot?
It looks simple enough but I am concerned there are a lot of things that happened that he doesnt talk about to ensure the overhead cabinet stays there.
Has anyone mounted the 8020 directly without a T-slot?
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I have seen a few of George’s 80/20 videos and his work wouldn’t be an example for me to follow, but he is very entertaining. See work done by Dave and Asimba2 (Ourkaravan).
A few specific comments about of his overhead mount.
1. His lower outer beam is for vertical load only, an accident can cause a problem.
2. I don’t know how good is his insulation between lower outer beam and the chassis.
3. Mount of his upper inner beam with pre-mounted carriage bolts is not well thought out, no tightening possible so the beam can move fore and aft in an accident, no thermal brake, removal could be impossible.
4. The outer lower beam should be the strongest mounting point, with this strong mount and a very rigid cabinet vertical load at the ceiling will split to tensile and shear load. So I would recommend using 80/20 anchor fasteners. See 25th picture for explanation. https://goo.gl/photos/D6ScLYL9UYFbcw3n8
Good luck,
A few specific comments about of his overhead mount.
1. His lower outer beam is for vertical load only, an accident can cause a problem.
2. I don’t know how good is his insulation between lower outer beam and the chassis.
3. Mount of his upper inner beam with pre-mounted carriage bolts is not well thought out, no tightening possible so the beam can move fore and aft in an accident, no thermal brake, removal could be impossible.
4. The outer lower beam should be the strongest mounting point, with this strong mount and a very rigid cabinet vertical load at the ceiling will split to tensile and shear load. So I would recommend using 80/20 anchor fasteners. See 25th picture for explanation. https://goo.gl/photos/D6ScLYL9UYFbcw3n8
Good luck,
Hi George, Thank you for the link to your pictures.
Are the Fiberglass angle pieces installed directly on the ceiling mounts or did you install another T-slot on the ceiling?
I am wondering if I can eliminate the T slot under the 80/20 completely to bring down the cost but would rather install it if it helps provide better support.
Are the Fiberglass angle pieces installed directly on the ceiling mounts or did you install another T-slot on the ceiling?
I am wondering if I can eliminate the T slot under the 80/20 completely to bring down the cost but would rather install it if it helps provide better support.