Would a 1/4-20 nylon pan head screw slide in the profile? If so what about that and an eye nut.
Based on my experience it would bind /cockeyed, each “hook would have to moved individually. I grab the end of the curtain and “hooks” slide freely.Would a 1/4-20 nylon pan head screw slide in the profile? If so what about that and an eye nut.
I use them for hanging jackets.Could you use the tool hanger part # 2100?
There could be a market for those curtain hangers. I'll have to see if I can make some up myself, unless you are interested in making a little money to build some up.I use them for hanging jackets.
Sorry, I am retired.There could be a market for those curtain hangers. I'll have to see if I can make some up myself, unless you are interested in making a little money to build some up.
Thanks. Guess I will be returning some lock nuts and bolts lol.I didn't use carriage bolts, only variable lenghts bolts with various t-nuts
Correct. That is one reason I made my own angle connectors. Holes must be 1" from the apex to use carriage bolts. Prefer to use carriage bolts because the connection is more robust than other choices. Other benefits of making your own connectors is cost and no waiting for deliveries. Also used 3/16" thickness instead of the 80/20 supplied 1/4". See connector "A" in the link.How are you guys using Carraige bolts with this 15 series 80/20? I went to put my bed frame together and it doesnt come close to working.
I have 5/16 x 18 bolts that are 3/4 inch long. The shortest ive come across. I have corner brackets from Tnutz. Its impossible for me to fit a lock nuts on each bolt. Just not nearly enough clearance between the two bolts. Is the carriage bolt idea something that only works if I make my own corner brackets with the holes drilled farther apart?
For this project I will have to just use the other method with the roll in t nuts I guess
No grinding but the angle holes need to be 1" from the apex instead of 3/4". Made my own angles so I could use carriage bolts.I think Dave used carriage bolts and there may have been some grinding needed.
No problem with SS bolts in aluminum extrusions. I had 80/20 rails on my pickup bed and used SS fasteners. Truck was never garaged and after 10+ years did not see any problems. Used carriage bolts in the extrusions with a nylon spacer between the extrusion and the female eye bolt for a movable tie down. Nylon after 5-6 years did show some weather affects.Thanks. Guess I will be returning some lock nuts and bolts lol.
Im ordering t-nuts and new bolts. Is stainless steel bad to use with aluminum or zinc?
With the economy nuts you just put a bolt in the threaded hole you will use and a set screw in the other hole. Move the economy nut with the bolt head to where you want it. Then tighten the set screw in the other hole to lock the economy nut in place. Makes locating the economy nut in a vertical slot easy. Putting a bolt in the hole to move the nut also assures you that the hole will be aligned in slot so your attachment bolt will fit through the slot and thread into the nut. If you do not use a bolt, the economy nut threaded hole may not be centered in the slotI have never seen this mentioned in discussions of 80/20 (maybe I missed it) but while browsing the big catalog of 80/20 products I came across "spring detents" pkg of 100 for $7. (item #3010) They fit on the economy nuts and hold the nut where ever you slide it too. Very big help on the vertical members.
I used #3010 springs very often as well as #3380 and one sided #3389 to allow panel insertion.I have never seen this mentioned in discussions of 80/20 (maybe I missed it) but while browsing the big catalog of 80/20 products I came across "spring detents" pkg of 100 for $7. (item #3010) They fit on the economy nuts and hold the nut where ever you slide it too. Very big help on the vertical members. Also the 15S end fastener" part #3380, is hidden and saves two angles, comes with screws. It does require drilling a hole and requires some accuracy as it can't be moved. Definitely has a place is some 80/20 builds.
p.s. Maybe a list of consolidated hints for 80/20 may be in order. Yes I have read Dave's build thread - several times.
I have seen a few of George’s 80/20 videos and his work wouldn’t be an example for me to follow, but he is very entertaining. See work done by Dave and Asimba2 (Ourkaravan).
A few specific comments about of his overhead mount.
1. His lower outer beam is for vertical load only, an accident can cause a problem.
2. I don’t know how good is his insulation between lower outer beam and the chassis.
3. Mount of his upper inner beam with pre-mounted carriage bolts is not well thought out, no tightening possible so the beam can move fore and aft in an accident, no thermal brake, removal could be impossible.
4. The outer lower beam should be the strongest mounting point, with this strong mount and a very rigid cabinet vertical load at the ceiling will split to tensile and shear load. So I would recommend using 80/20 anchor fasteners. See 25th picture for explanation. https://goo.gl/photos/D6ScLYL9UYFbcw3n8