Sprintshift Hydraulic gear pump motor replacement.


2002 Hymer RV, 2500 chassis
My 2002 T1N based RV , 65k miles/104k km, with Sprintshift transmission suddenly was not shifting into any gear and would only indicate ‘N’ neutral no matter how I moved the gear shifter. I could eventually get the ‘N’ to blink. It had recently kicked out of low gear a few days before but had gone right back in. I could not hear the pump turn on when first starting the motor as it should. Smacking it on startup did nothing.

Troubleshooting this involved this sequence;

1: replacing the pump relay, discovered mine was never updated to new recommended one to prevent premature failure of pump motor.

B: replace pump motor

III : check level/replace hydraulic oil

4: ????

Replacing the relay did not fix it.

replacing the pump motor was next but I had a few days down time while a new one was being shipped ( flighted ) Germany ~~~~~~~ east coast of USA.

The Pump motor is attached to the tranny case with 3 T30 screws, I loosened these first to get a little movement on the assembly to inspect further and identify how/where the wiring is routed.

The pump motor attaches to the gear pump with 2 T20 screws and the drive shafts interlock with a small round bushing. When replacing just the motor, you DO NOT have to worry about the Hydraulic system fluid or level as the gear pump stays in place being held by the hydraulic lines and is not affected. No need to bleed or check the fluid.

there are 2 other screws on the the gear pump that are not removed and have a different head( not torx).

after removing the 2 screws holding the pump and motor together, I was able to free the motor by removing the 3 screws attaching it to the case. The Pump motor and Gear pump easily separate but you need to watch for the round plastic bushing that mates their shafts as it can fall out. Now the motor was only hanging by the electrical cable and the gear pump stays in place.

The electrical cable Runs under a narrow black shield that protects it as it runs to the other side where it plugs in. This narrow shield is not removed completely as it also travels up the other side to near top of tranny, but loosened
by removing 2 low mounting bolts, one of which is covered by another L shaped shield that is removed to access the electrical plugs mounting spot.
Once the L shaped shield is removed, you can remove the other hidden narrow shield bolt to free it up a bit more, I was able to get the cable out from under the shield by prying, forcing and swearing at it. It’s pretty tight as the wires have a loom protection sheath on them.

Removing The electrical plug was by far the hardest part. it was not a simple, release the catch and pull apart affair.

What I figured out after forcing the plugs apart, kinda busting it up, was that the plug on the cable to the pump motor is mounted to a plastic clip that is twisted to lock into a square holed mounting tab. You cannot pull on the pump motor plug to separate as it is the mounted side. You can twist the interlocked plugs to release them from the mounting tab, and then you can separate the two. (confused yet? ). I’ll work on getting a pic to illustrate.

Running the new pump motor wiring under the narrow plate was easy enough using a little prying etc. to make room to slide the wiring in place.

Attaching the new pump motor to the existing gear pump is a little tricky as you need to line up the motor shaft to fit the bushing on the gear pump. I rotated the gear pump side by twisting the installed bushing to align the two. Once aligned and mated, I replaced the two bolts holding them together then secured the assembly back to the tranny case with the three T30 screws

I attached the two plug ends together but had to use a plastic wire tie to secure to the mounting tab as I broke the piece that mounts to the new pump motor plug. It’s secure. Then it’s a matter of installing the 2 bolts ( different sizes, E10 & E12) on the narrow plate that covers the wiring and then the L shaped plate that covers the plugs. Be aware of the tab on the L plate as it slides into a slot when remounting.

I did this repair on a gravel lot at the mechanics yard who I had tow me. Luckily he let me do the repair myself and No jack or lifting needed. A couple of hours time. But would be 30 min. if ever needed again.

I still need another as backup and I will rebuild the dead motor but I also need to order the correct relay from same company so I will likely get another new spare too. Will be About $260 total shipped from Germany to US. I paid $30 extra for expedited shipping on this one and it arrived in 3 days, which I thought was amazing !


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2002 Hymer RV, 2500 chassis
More pics…..


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