Trvlgoose van build/rebuild

[Trvlgoose]

With the oil pan, you always have the option of a custom unit. With 3d scanners having come so far, you could just scan the gasket, and the block, and have something origami style cut from sheet steel for a few hundred bucks.

I think I’m past this issue. Fingers crossed lol

 

[Trvlgoose]

Now the crossmember under the motor might be complicated!

 

[Midwestdrifter]

2500s had the shocks in the lateral plane, and angled forward slightly. In general you want the shocks to be as close to the wheel as possible. This means the shock is as close as possible to 1:1 ratio of wheel to shock movement.



On the 3500s the shocks are much farther inboard due to the dual rear wheels. Ideally moving the lower mount outboard will improve motion ratio, and thus damping control in roll. Since you are SRW with wider track, you should be able to move them. Ideally you would move the upper mount to the outside of the chassis rail, but I doubt there is space for that. I expect you are using factory spring mounts which limits your options of course.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Better



Best



Stock


Having a bit of angle inward can add some lateral stability/damping with high arch springs, but yours are fairly low arch, so mostly vertical with the upper mount being a bit forward is likely best.

 

[Trvlgoose]

Ahhh okay understood! Then yes I will definitely move them outboard. Great photo comparison!!

 

[Trvlgoose]

the fronts will be pretty damn close to the wheel!

 

[Trvlgoose]

i might end up mounting the rear shocks in the wheel well.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

i might end up mounting the rear shocks in the wheel well.

Definitely doable, you will need a decently well attached structure for them, but tying into the chassis rail should be feasible. For easy of fabrication having the upper mount slightly inboard (maybe ~20-25 degrees angle) seems reasonable.

Be aware that shocks tuned for a factory location may be a bit stiff in low speed damping, but with adjustment it shouldn't be a problem.

A stiff rear sway bar and digressive damped shocks will make these vans track straight even in high winds. And will prevent you from hitting your head on the side window when crossing ditches at an angle.

 

[Trvlgoose]

I’ll play with the tuning when it’s finally drivable 🫠

 

[Trvlgoose]

Something I’ve been working on. It’s essentially a “trunk”. The trunk is 9 inches deep and I can fit a 20 gallon water tank including 1 inch foam board insulation. This location is where the spare tire used to be. I’m doing rust maintenance while in there, replacing that lower body panel, and doing frame reinforcement in preparation for a custom rear bumper. Welding it up next. I’ll probably add a little extra metal where I think it could scrub against rocks when doing some trail riding.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Very nice, its definitely a prime storage area. I think Vancompass offered a through-floor locker for the later vans at one point. You could probably go a bit lower if you wanted (well not really since its already installed!

If you plan on deep winter camping, you will still need a heating pad. Probably in the 40-70W range depending on the temps. There are some RV ones with integral thermostats, but they tend to turn off around 60F, which wastes a bit of power vs stopping in the low 40s.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Also, I am not sure if you have a hitch or not, but now is a prime time to install one. They make a very handy recovery point, or just a great way to carry a bit of extra gear when needed.

 

[Trvlgoose]

Very nice, its definitely a prime storage area. I think Vancompass offered a through-floor locker for the later vans at one point. You could probably go a bit lower if you wanted (well not really since its already installed!

If you plan on deep winter camping, you will still need a heating pad. Probably in the 40-70W range depending on the temps. There are some RV ones with integral thermostats, but they tend to turn off around 60F, which wastes a bit of power vs stopping in the low 40s.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention the heating pad. 60f huh? Will havr to find something with better parameters.

Not yet installed 😂. This was a fitment test. I could have gone lower. 10 inches deep is in line with the bottom of the lower body panels. I probably could have gone to 11 inches and be fine. 9 just happen to fit my needs.

The hitch will be integrated into the rear bumper 👍

im also in the design phase for a camel roof rack

 

[Midwestdrifter]

My personal preference is to avoid roof storage. These vans are already top heavy with a decent build, and the racks result impact fuel economy.

Plus anything over 9.5ft can be an issue for shorter overhangs at businesses.

Obviously if you have kayaks etc, there isn't a whole lot of other options.

 

[Trvlgoose]

agreed. It’s not purposely for storage. Like you said, we love canoeing among other outdoor adventures for different seasons. Also we want a good view point or sit and relax star gazing. There racks also look soooo good!

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Maybe you'll use your roof more than a lot of people do. But I would say 9 out of 10 folks that I've worked with that installed roof racks for seating don't end up using them for that. Being 8 plus feet off the ground is not particularly pleasant for most folks.

And as far as stargazing goes, if you're in a spot where you need to be 8 ft off the ground to see the sky, I don't think you're working hard enough with your vans mobility.

Of course if you just like the way it looks by all means go for it.


It's mostly a quirk of mine, I I'm a bit irked by folks who put enormous amounts of effort into justifying what was simply aesthetic decision. For example five or $6,000 of lights on the front of a campervan. "You got to have them for safe night driving!"


As far as storing watercraft, I think there are a couple better designs than a simple roof platform. Both for cost, weight, and ease of use.

 

[Trvlgoose]

To each their own for sure!

The looks of the rack is a bonus, extra bonus if it’s utilitarian and a place to read my books. I’m about multipurpose multifunctional. We seasonly canoe 150 miles on average as well as portage up north. I don’t believe we are like most folks. I’d go as far and say we are that 10th person. We through hiked 2200 miles of the Appalachian trail. Climbed glaciers in Kenai.

And as far as stargazing goes, if you're in a spot where you need to be 8 ft off the ground to see the sky, I don't think you're working hard enough with your vans mobility.

Absolutely correct here 😂. That is the purpose of building this van! It’s about enjoying life!

With that said, the rack is expensive. I’ve talked the owner. He’s an awesome guy. But I haven’t pulled the trigger yet.

What are your thoughts on different designs for carrying/storing a watercraft?

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Vee rollers with side stanchions is an option. A pulley at the front for pulling them up helps. There was a user years ago who made a pretty good setup, I'll see if I can find the thread

Smaller craft can go on a side of the van rack. But does have mirror visibility issues.

For craft under 7-8ft, a vertical rack on the rear doors or hitch can work too.

If you can tolerate the trade offs, there are some decent inflatable craft on the market.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Here are a couple ideas for kayak storage.

Kayak Rack For Tall Sprinter

Earlier this year I bought a tall Sprinter and was concerned about loading my kayaks on top. When I saw this van came with a drop down ladder rack I was sure I could make it work. It works great! I also bolted together a couple Harbor Freight ATV loading ramps and made a walkway on the roof

sprinter-source.com

 

[Trvlgoose]

That is actually really cool. I’ve been thinking about what to do on my roof and I haven’t quite put my finger on it yet. My wife and I might hold off on a rack till after we start our van journey and see what will suite our life style.