Ecotrek batteries won't fully charge.

D&C Erv2

New member
From what I can tell are system is set up for the Balmar Voltage Regulator to charge the lithium's with lower amps and voltage than what they could take to protect them and the under-hood AGM. As far as the DC-to-DC charger goes I am still trying to decide if I really need one or just leave the system set the way it is for charging. My understanding is that the DC to DC lets you keep the AGM charged but allows you to charge the Lithium's faster. By the way I received a document from KS2 that showed my system was wired different than they say to and the Balmar settings have been upgraded and some of the settings are lower than the original. Both of my batteries had bad relays on the charge side. My Remaining H series must have the Reset button held down for the Under-hood alternator to charge it, so I used toothpicks to make the switch stay in the reset position until the voltmeter reached 13.9. The inverter charger was hooked up to the discharge side and worked fine if I were plugged in to shore power. My solution has been to order new BMS and Active balancers for both batteries and 4 new 280 AH cells for my second battery. I have 3 extra cells now for the H series so I decided that I would make the 200AH work until it doesn't and then replace the cells with new 280AH to match my new rebuild. I have attached the DC-to-DC charger that I will use if I decide it is needed.
 

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Moto Vita

Active member
From what I can tell are system is set up for the Balmar Voltage Regulator to charge the lithium's with lower amps and voltage than what they could take to protect them and the under-hood AGM. As far as the DC-to-DC charger goes I am still trying to decide if I really need one or just leave the system set the way it is for charging. My understanding is that the DC to DC lets you keep the AGM charged but allows you to charge the Lithium's faster. By the way I received a document from KS2 that showed my system was wired different than they say to and the Balmar settings have been upgraded and some of the settings are lower than the original. Both of my batteries had bad relays on the charge side. My Remaining H series must have the Reset button held down for the Under-hood alternator to charge it, so I used toothpicks to make the switch stay in the reset position until the voltmeter reached 13.9. The inverter charger was hooked up to the discharge side and worked fine if I were plugged in to shore power. My solution has been to order new BMS and Active balancers for both batteries and 4 new 280 AH cells for my second battery. I have 3 extra cells now for the H series so I decided that I would make the 200AH work until it doesn't and then replace the cells with new 280AH to match my new rebuild. I have attached the DC-to-DC charger that I will use if I decide it is needed.
When you say your batteries had bad charge side relays do you mean the relay itself was faulty, as in it would fail a bench test, or that it wasn't operating possibly due to the BMS? I don't think that's been checked yet on my batteries, and if that were the case it could be a quick repair to get me back on the road.
 
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Moto Vita

Active member
From what I can tell are system is set up for the Balmar Voltage Regulator to charge the lithium's with lower amps and voltage than what they could take to protect them and the under-hood AGM. As far as the DC-to-DC charger goes I am still trying to decide if I really need one or just leave the system set the way it is for charging. My understanding is that the DC to DC lets you keep the AGM charged but allows you to charge the Lithium's faster. By the way I received a document from KS2 that showed my system was wired different than they say to and the Balmar settings have been upgraded and some of the settings are lower than the original. Both of my batteries had bad relays on the charge side. My Remaining H series must have the Reset button held down for the Under-hood alternator to charge it, so I used toothpicks to make the switch stay in the reset position until the voltmeter reached 13.9. The inverter charger was hooked up to the discharge side and worked fine if I were plugged in to shore power. My solution has been to order new BMS and Active balancers for both batteries and 4 new 280 AH cells for my second battery. I have 3 extra cells now for the H series so I decided that I would make the 200AH work until it doesn't and then replace the cells with new 280AH to match my new rebuild. I have attached the DC-to-DC charger that I will use if I decide it is needed.
As I understand it, having the inverter/charger on the discharge side was blamed for numerous battery failures, it seems the protection on that side was inadequate to prevent overcharging. That was part of a Roadtrek update to move all wires except the DC output to the charge terminal, that's probably the way it's shown on the diagram that KS2 sent you.
 

D&C Erv2

New member
I did not try to find out why the relays were not working because of the bad cell I just moved on. You are correct about the wiring. My new BMS are smart so monitoring will actually be a thing now, but I am considering adding a smart shunt to monitor the batteries as a bank as well.
Blue tooth is amazing for all the different monitoring that I am doing along the road such as TPMS, Blue Driver OBD2 and now Batteries. We upgraded our stereo to Apple Car play capable to help with the monitoring as these Apps are upgraded to allow Car Play. At current the TPMS will show on Car Play, and I will be doing reviews on the others to suggest updates.
 

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