The fun can begin revision of the rear axle of my 4x4 sprinter

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
What is the list to do :
- All new bearings
- New pinion and ring gear
- Diff lock install
- shackle flip
- 3 cm lift spaccer with from 6 degree correction angle.

Main parts are already in.

It will be the first time I will do a (rear) diff. that is why I will completely remove the axle from the sprinter so that I can easily access everything.

IMG_20231027_150026.jpg
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
So
Removed shocks
removed the hydraulic breaks ( move then a side )
removed the mechanical break pads and mechanism

But a bit stuck, the hand break cable doesn't come out of the axle, Also the description in WIS does not help

Tried hammering ( with care ) it out from the wheel side, with half cut a way pipe. No movement
from the cable side with pliers also no movement
Hope you can help, I can still remove the sway barIMG_20231125_141208.jpg
 
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bazar01

2008 Dodge Sprinter 2500 170 extended
Have you looked at the cable end connection above the driveshaft?
You can probably disconnect it from there.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Old mechanic shop practice, on under frame components like axles/suspension etc
Soak the component area in a freeing agent (Spanish /Latinos call it "caramba " )
Then doing disassembly work wrenching life is made easier BEFORE you bring out the hot knife! :devilish:
Dennis
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
Everything else comes lose without any problem, even de ABS sensors came out without destroying them
Looking at the after market picture it just needs to be pushed out

thumb
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
Finally, got them out. WD40 and grab it with (Don't know what it is called in English)
718a4f12ebb7b073512def8dfbec9ccb.jpeg

Twist it, grab hard when it slips, it will come lose
then tap it from the outside. and it comes out.

So next, mount bare metal rims ( now tires )
4 bouts of the drive shaft, and 4 U bolts and it drops out, and can roll it in to the garage
First give it a power wash
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
what is the best / smartest :) way , spray/paint it before dismantling or after new assembly
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
Cleaned it ( needs still some more )

Removed the axels , and remove the axels form the wheel bearing. that needs to be done with a lot of force/hammering. Only do that when you want change them. Behind the axle in the bearing there is very black oil/grease, so I think I will put also a lot of grease there. The driver side was leaking a little bit.
Looking at the photo I realize that I forgot to braise the angle metal, from my home made spreader.
IMG_20231202_143212.jpg
 

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
Those are probably eTorx bolts (which are also used on the seat mounting bolts).
12-point might work, I'm not an expert on that.
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
Completely disassembled.
Bearings needed
All KOYO
- 30307DJ
- T7FC045
- 32012JR/1B need 2
IMG_20231207_103610.jpg
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
BTW watch out with buying sets, I bought a KOYO set in Germany one bearing was damaged, was not properly packed ( not in original boxes) . send it back, never heard from them again. One of the bearings is not a KOYO, and looks different. So I ordered 2 new bearings some where else.
I should have waited for full disassembly and order what was originally used.
 

amigob

2010 H2L2 Sprinter CDI313 4x4, EU
All have Japan on them, but one was not even KOYO , no brand on it only made in Vietnam( it was also 0.2 mm thicker ). Ordered again, was expensive 100 Euro
Finally I probably would bought everything cheaper at Mercedes. Untill now I still did not find any part that I bought really expensive at the dealer.
 

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