Rear Axle Lift Blocks to Adjust Ride Height 1"-1.5" - Yea or Nay?

[Mr. Bills]

Recent discussion regarding Van Compass Opti-Rate springs has inspired my query.

My 2016 2500 4x4 high roof 170, as built and fully loaded, weighs 9040# (3640# F, 5400# R).

My Sprinter has a Van Compass suspension installed by the original owner. The rear is likely what is now called "Stage 3.0" with the mini leaf spring pack and the previously supplied Fox shocks. Tires are LT265/75R16-E on factory alloy wheels.

I am contemplating the addition of rear Sumo springs and "Baja Bracket" rear shock mounts, but otherwise I no problems with the rear suspension except the van does not sit level when fully loaded. I would like to lift the rear a small amount (1-1.5") so that it sits level when fully loaded with gear and all tanks full.

My question today is about rear leaf spring lift blocks. There are already factory-supplied lift blocks under my rear axle tubes that measure 80mm x 70mm x 140mm (3.15" H x 2.76" W x 5.5" L).

Is there any reason not to use a 4.0-5.5" tall lift block in place of the factory supplied lift block (with new U-bolts, of course)?

If a taller lift block would be acceptable, does anyone have a link to a specific block or blocks you have used with success? LxWxH? Size of locating pin? (9/16?)

Here is a link to one that I found after a very brief search:

Pro Comp Suspension Systems 95-401 Pro Comp Lift Blocks | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Pro Comp Lift Blocks with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Suspension Blocks at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

If a taller block is unacceptable on a Sprinter, please explain.


Here are some previous comments from another thread:

Just use [a] lift spacer, I did.

The correct fix is to increase spring rate to counter the weight/sag and get the ride height up, or, a block if you find the spring rate to your liking.

Here is my rear suspension (old photo supplied by original owner):

 

[OrioN]

I'd (and had done) shed the 500 lbs that you are overweight by.

 

[Mr. Bills]

I'd (and had done) shed the 500 lbs that you are overweight by.

The weights I quoted are for my Sprinter fully loaded for a month long trip, all tanks full. Those weights are the heaviest the van will ever be.

I typically run with water tanks no more than 1/4 full and fill when closer to my destination and employ other weight saving tricks, such that I don't typically load to the scaled weight. Realistically, I might be able to shed 250-300# but not 500#. For example, the pending installation of LiFePO4 to replace the existing AGM house batteries will save a bit over 200#, but the installation of a 47 gallon fuel tank will add back 140# in potential additional fuel weight. I have already changed large items to save weight, but am now experiencing diminishing returns.

I have no issue with spring rate, I just need to raise the rear 1-1.5" and am looking for a way to do it without investing in new springs.

What did you use for lift blocks?

 

[OrioN]

The weights I quoted are for my Sprinter fully loaded for a month long trip, all tanks full. Those weights are the heaviest the van will ever be.

I typically run with water tanks no more than 1/4 full and fill when closer to my destination and employ other weight saving tricks, such that I don't typically load to the scaled weight. Realistically, I might be able to shed 250-300# but not 500#. For example, the pending installation of LiFePO4 to replace the existing AGM house batteries will save a bit over 200#, but the installation of a 47 gallon fuel tank will add back 140# in potential additional fuel weight. I have already changed large items to save weight, but am now experiencing diminishing returns.

I have no issue with spring rate, I just need to raise the rear 1-1.5" and am looking for a way to do it without investing in new springs.

What did you use for lift blocks?

I used the OE 3500 blocks. I believe ~50-60mm. But, I shed a good 600lbs............

 

[Rocksnsalt]

Maybe consider emailing VC and Agile, and compare what each says.
If you call agile, I would suggest asking to talk to Jesus or Glenn. They are experienced and have spent years in the trenches so to speak.

 

[Mr. Bills]

Maybe consider emailing VC and Agile, and compare what each says.
If you call agile, I would suggest asking to talk to Jesus or Glenn. They are experienced and have spent years in the trenches so to speak.

I'm looking forward to what @Andy @ Van Compass might have to say about lift blocks if he sees this thread, particularly because I already have a Van Compass rear suspension with the mini spring pack.

 

[Mr. Bills]

I used the OE 3500 blocks. I believe ~50-60mm.

Thanks. The factory blocks for my 2500 4x4 are 80mm. I'm looking for something in the 105-125mm range, if in fact a taller lift block is acceptable.

 

[gltrimble]

Consider selling your mini-packs and put that money toward a full Agile spring pack.

 

[Mr. Bills]

Consider selling your mini-packs and put that money toward a full Agile spring pack.

I typically don't bother selling used suspension parts, gear sets, etc.. Eventually I meet someone struggling to raise a family who can use them and pass the used parts on to a good home.

Writing a check for $1,459 for Agile springs or $1,659 for Opti-Rate springs is certainly easy enough, but if I can accomplish my goal for $100-150 it's worth consideration.

The initial question is whether or not lift blocks taller than the stock 80mm blocks are a good idea or a bad one.

The next question would be whether or not there are taller lift blocks on the market that will work.

 

[#yardsale]

I say go for some blocks. I think in some cases a block can exacerbate wheel hop. But since you already have the mini spring pack supporting your main leaf I’d try it. You are an experienced enough off-roader to recognize wheel hop when (if) it happens. If it doesn’t work take the block out.

Be prepared to maybe shim the carrier bearing.