Damaged water tank

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
Drove over an "invisible" stump last week, tore off all three water tank mounting brackets and put a good gash in the tank. Currently investigating repair strategies... OUCH!

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irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
Finally got some numbers, if I choose to totally replace the tank: Tank $330; estimated shipping $200. Plus any other incidentals required, this looks like it won't be an inexpensive fix -- but the best part about our SS Agile is that it doesn't NEED to be hooked up or plugged in, which really opens up some options.

Of course, that's dependent on having 30 gallons of fresh water on board. Guess I'll get it fixed correctly, but ouch. Still kicking myself over driving over that $%#!@ stump!
 

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
RV is now finally repaired and back home. Took about 11 weeks to get it in for service (Campers Inn Kingston, NH). Nice people, repair done reasonably well.

Tank was replaced, but Roadtrek's replacement --the only one available-- is apparently the current model, which is quite different than the tank that came in my 2015 SS Agile. According to RT's specs the new one has the same capacity (30 gal), but it sure looks bigger! Total bill came to over $2500, which my insurance (Progressive) will cover except for deductible.

Anyway, now to top off fluids and --finally-- get it into storage for the winter. Guess it'll be an abbreviated storage period this year!

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RT.SS

Active member
The original 30-gallon quote includes the 2nd freshwater tank under the front passenger seat. The replacement tank looks a lot bigger/ longer, I'm not sure how they were able to fit that tank, the DEF tank is butted behind the original freshwater tank followed by the black water tank. You probably have the smaller DEF tank under the hood, or they retrofitted a smaller DEF tank?
 

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
RTSS-- No, i'm sure I have the "standard" (5-gallon?) DEF tank. The part of the water tank you can see under the passenger front seat is actually one of those "bumps" -- upward protrusions-- that you can see in both tanks, just a raised section of the one-piece tank. I was a bit surprised, but I can see essentially the same "window" under the passenger seat (and the single wire going to one of the level sensors), just the same as with the old one. But maybe there really are two sections?? -- I just don't know. Just not sure when I look at the pic above which part of the new tank I can see under the passenger seat, but it looks like the drain valve right there in roughly the same location as it was on the original tank.... Just wish I could have been there to see them put that in!

One thing I can see is that the new tank extends rearward and passes over (and beyond) the retractable step, whereas the old one only overlapped that step frame about one inch. I just can't picture what else they did under there, but fitting that new tank in took an additional 3+ hours, according to the SA at Campers Inn.

The one "boo-boo" they made was to use my field repair pieces on the drain valve -- the original (as with everything else on the RV) was done with PEX connectors, but they put my little 2" piece of dishwasher sprayer hose back on with my two worm-drive hose clamps -- which, of course, drips. I explained that to the SA and suggested they educate their techs about sticking with PEX stuff. She assured me they would, but their tech wasn't there on Saturday when I picked it up so they couldn't fix it then. I said I'd take care of that, really a 5-minute job with the right tools...and she then insisted I accept a $50 gift certificate to any Campers Inn store.


Barry, good question! I'm not 100% sure, but I believe it was considered "collision," since they sent an adjuster to my house to inspect it and come up with a preliminary estimate of cost to repair. We both knew there'd be additional expenses, but I think we were both thinking maybe $500-$700 more; it actually came to a bit over $1000 more than his estimate, mostly due to the current replacement tank being so much different. Still waiting to hear their response to the final invoice.
 

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
After looking more closely, I'm now convinced that section of tank under the front passenger seat is actually a separate section (and was not changed), but have no idea of the internal plumbing to connect it to the "main" tank. Wish I had access to RT plumbing diagrams!

So I removed my field repair section at the drain valve and used a short piece of PEX tubing and two PEX clamps to re-install the it, and verified that Campers Inn did in fact use a PEX union and two PEX clamps to re-connect the line that goes from near the drain rearward which had been cut during removal of the OEM tank. (I'm guessing this is the water pump pick-up tube, but not positive.)

It's cold here, but I'd still like to temporarily fill the tank with water to leak-check now rather than wait until next spring....

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RT.SS

Active member
In my Agile, the tank under the passenger seat is separate and connected to the lower main tank via an inch diameter flex hose. The freshwater tank #4 (full) level sensor is connected to upper tank, you can see the sensor wire by removing the small compartment door on the outer side of the front passenger seat. The 3 remaining fluid level sensors are fitted into the lower tank. The tank overflow tube is connected to the upper tank and is routed down into a small opening on the floor. The main lower tank has 3 openings, two large diameter (1-inch) barb fittings for the gravity fill port and for the upper tank connection, the pump connection tees with the drain valve.

I’m still trying to visualize how they were able fit the new freshwater tank. You mentioned that the new tank extends rearward beyond the sliding step, but the black tank occupies that space, the black tank actually overlaps about couple of inches into the DEF tank (located above the sliding step). The new tank looks deep with bumps on the top to be able to fit below the black tank. Do you have a single gray and black tank? There was a year model that RT made a single holding tank for both black and gray.
 

Mein Sprinter

Known member
Drove over an "invisible" stump last week, tore off all three water tank mounting brackets and put a good gash in the tank. Currently investigating repair strategies... OUCH!

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Hi, I have exactly the same water tank design as yours...mine is a 2010 Roadtrek SS Agile 2500. I noticed this vulnerability years ago and added an aluminum diamond plate to the entire bottom surface of the water tank. The holding bracket bars still fit perfectly with the addition of only 1/32" plate. After several off grid travels...I noticed some scratches or small gauges on the AL plate indicating that I did hit some obstructions.

Cheers...
 

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
Hey, Mein Sprinter, nice to hear from you again. Yep, shouldda done that! It was my own stupidity that I drove over that stump, and yes, had I had a skid plate I think I might have survived the incident. I recall that one of the very first "improvements" I did to my 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon (on which the cast aluminum oil pan is actually a structural part of the engine) was to replace the OEM plastic under-engine splash pan with a DieselGeek 1/4" thick aluminum skid plate. Money well spent!

RT, thanks for the plumbing lesson! I wasn't sure before, but now I see how --at least a bit more than I did-- how things are connected. In digging around further over the past few days, I think I now have a better idea of how things fit.

The black tank is still there where it was, but the new white fresh water tank seems to just come up to it, in the area aft of the retractable step. The black tank on mine doesn't seem to come forward over the retractable step, but remains behind (aft of) it. Not sure how stuff fits beyond that, except that it all seems to fit, even with the new, longer fresh water tank. It's just really difficult to see stuff under there without a lift (unless you like crawling under from the front...)!

As far as I know, my DEF tank is located ahead of the fresh water tank, in front of/ above the wheel well area. And yes, I still have two holding tanks, one for gray and one for black. The gray tank appears to be on the left (passenger) side of my truck.

Any other thoughts/observations welcome!
 

Mein Sprinter

Known member
Hey, Mein Sprinter, nice to hear from you again. Yep, shouldda done that! It was my own stupidity that I drove over that stump, and yes, had I had a skid plate I think I might have survived the incident. I recall that one of the very first "improvements" I did to my 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon (on which the cast aluminum oil pan is actually a structural part of the engine) was to replace the OEM plastic under-engine splash pan with a DieselGeek 1/4" thick aluminum skid plate. Money well spent!

RT, thanks for the plumbing lesson! I wasn't sure before, but now I see how --at least a bit more than I did-- how things are connected. In digging around further over the past few days, I think I now have a better idea of how things fit.

The black tank is still there where it was, but the new white fresh water tank seems to just come up to it, in the area aft of the retractable step. The black tank on mine doesn't seem to come forward over the retractable step, but remains behind (aft of) it. Not sure how stuff fits beyond that, except that it all seems to fit, even with the new, longer fresh water tank. It's just really difficult to see stuff under there without a lift (unless you like crawling under from the front...)!

As far as I know, my DEF tank is located ahead of the fresh water tank, in front of/ above the wheel well area. And yes, I still have two holding tanks, one for gray and one for black. The gray tank appears to be on the left (passenger) side of my truck.

Any other thoughts/observations welcome!

Hi irvingj.... Good to know that you're still around and about. I'm sure your Van is still rolling about while ours is in storage here in snowy Santa Fe. Our DEF tank is behind the water tank; water tank is very close to the right wheel well area. Have long ago removed the black tank and its plumping accessories. Installed a Thetford Port Potti cassette. Also removed the retractable steps. Now everything is more accessible underneath! The gray water tank still remains but has been modified so that I can empty it via a plastic turn valve. My water tank actually obstructs one of the Sprinter chassis lift point. We're currently running at 155,320 miles. Ought to remove water tank this spring and somehow power wash the insides due to some algae growth, constant beaching the tank for 13 years didn't do the job! Sorry for going off point.

Cheers..
 

irvingj

2015 RT SS Agile (3.0L)
I'll have to get under it again and look around. (I really like to know how stuff is put together.) Yesterday, however, we finally got it put away for winter -- yes, we do have winter here, in fact we currently have full snow cover up where I am. Coldest temp so far this winter has been 8.5, but --as has been the case for the past several years-- a lot of up & down. It's supposed to hit 40 today, for example, but yesterday AM it was 14.

We stayed put in 2021/22 for the most part, but did get up to Newfoundland and Labrador last summer. Plan to return to Newfoundland this summer. I really like it up there. Our rig has only about 65K however.
 

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