Van conversion: 2022 4x4. Project MBH

rafski

Well-known member
Does your window sticker options spec sheet have a "E2L" (Additional Batt for Retrofit) or a E2M?
I have the aux batt, and the BEG has this to say:
1674849917719.png
In your image, is this the box you tried to slide out? Need to hold the tab there and lift.
1674850006753.png
No wait, think your is different! Here's a photo from my install, the above circled box is in the background:
1674850129946.png
Sorry, don't have a quick answer, but looks like your missing the box and have a different setup.
 

rafski

Well-known member
Yeah I guess the EK1 is an option, but BEG says to limit the pull:
1674850572703.png
This could be an option if you wanted to use the "low draw" feature of your DCDC, or try to run the cable to the start batt and get a in-line fuse box. Another more complicated option would be to install your own relay and then connect to EK1 and also to the starter batt.
Other options?
 

XiangRen

Active member
Yeah I guess the EK1 is an option, but BEG says to limit the pull:
View attachment 246493
This could be an option if you wanted to use the "low draw" feature of your DCDC, or try to run the cable to the start batt and get a in-line fuse box. Another more complicated option would be to install your own relay and then connect to EK1 and also to the starter batt.
Other options?
The EK1 right most terminal is power for ignition. Probabily not a good place to pull power. I will use the battery bay fuse box for this. The D+ line can still be used though.
 

XiangRen

Active member
Does your window sticker options spec sheet have a "E2L" (Additional Batt for Retrofit) or a E2M?
I have the aux batt, and the BEG has this to say:
View attachment 246485
In your image, is this the box you tried to slide out? Need to hold the tab there and lift.
View attachment 246486
No wait, think your is different! Here's a photo from my install, the above circled box is in the background:
View attachment 246489
Sorry, don't have a quick answer, but looks like your missing the box and have a different setup.
The slot for the F150 is empty in my van as I don’t have aux battery. I think I will need to use battery bay fuse box for DC-DC charger connection.
 

goldihop

Well-known member
Opened up the batter bay, hopping to connect the DC charging wire to btattery fuse block. No place to connect a fuse. Looking for ideas now. ?
You can connect a fuse next to the 125 that is there. You would need to make a short bus bar to that empty stud to the left and then it would be an easy exit for your wire out of the plastic box.
 

XiangRen

Active member
You can connect a fuse next to the 125 that is there. You would need to make a short bus bar to that empty stud to the left and then it would be an easy exit for your wire out of the plastic box.
This seems to be a better idea than an inline fuse option. Would a tinned copper plate be an option for the bus bar?
 

rafski

Well-known member
I recall doing research on metal types and their interactions, forget the technical terms, but there is some metals that change their appearance and cause issues with conductivity especially when near salt water. There's a lot of good info on marine electronics if you are interested. In the end, I came to the conclusion that my Sprinter is not exposed to salt water at the same level as a boat is and also I don't think it California will let me keep my diesel in 10 years :(
Use your multimeter and verify the fuses and connection points, last thing you want to do is take everything apart to find you installed a dead fuse:
1674926873377.png
Don't forget to label the connections and wires!
 

XiangRen

Active member
I recall doing research on metal types and their interactions, forget the technical terms, but there is some metals that change their appearance and cause issues with conductivity especially when near salt water. There's a lot of good info on marine electronics if you are interested. In the end, I came to the conclusion that my Sprinter is not exposed to salt water at the same level as a boat is and also I don't think it California will let me keep my diesel in 10 years :(
Use your multimeter and verify the fuses and connection points, last thing you want to do is take everything apart to find you installed a dead fuse:
View attachment 246629
Don't forget to label the connections and wires!
Good points. Salt water is really not a concern at all In RV from my perspective. Needs to robust in moving. For the electronic connection, can one use nylon lock nuts or Locitite?
 

rafski

Well-known member
Well, there's salt in the air from the beaches, salt on the roads in the winter - so you still need to think about salt in other applications.
As for those nuts, I did over think it and tried to use Loctite for one of those bus bars but it became messy and regret doing it. From what I later read that stuff lowers conductivity between the metals and more importantly, your not putting any physical stresses on those connection points, so the likelihood they will go loose is low. Same argument for using the the plastic lock nuts.
I would say, get stainless steel nuts and just keep it all tight and clean from dust and oils. You could use some alcohol and clean all the points. Don't forget, those screws are Metric - so another trip to the hardware store!
 

XiangRen

Active member
Still working on the DC2DC charger, trying to find a cleaner tapping point than using the battery fuse bar(F150/1). Browsing the forum quite a bit last few days and seems F150/4 under the driver seat can be used . Looked at it and seems position 6 in the F150/4 can be used. Challenge is that there is already a fuse installed and the terminal is hot but I don’t know the fuse size as it is covered. Any way to find out without taking out the cover?
 

Attachments

XiangRen

Active member
Finally get the DC to Dc charger working today. While memory is fresh, want to write up the steps leading to this after many hours of searching in this forum. This forum has been so helpful l. It has lots of info but scattering around. So hope this will be somehow consolidate some of the info I collected.

1. power tapping points (positive connection). Depends on your sprinter setup, there are 3 places one can connect positive line. The first one is in the battery compartment. The so called F150/1. In my set up, I need to build a bus bar to connect two studs and then use a midi fuse. Also requires me to add line in the battery compartment. This was my original plan but I eventually decide not go this route and leave the battery compartment alone. See picture 1 and 2.

the 2nd option is the F150/4 bus bar (3 rd picture). Position 6 in my van is live and fused (80A) so it fits my purpose and this is where I connect to.

3rd option is to use the F150/5. If you have an aux battery, you may have this set up. I don’t have this one.
2. Ground connection. This one takes me a long time. There are at least one under driver seat but one needs to remove many items to access. Also, it will share with 3 other lugs. I eventually decide not to use this ground bolt. The ground bolt I used is the one for securing seat base and located in the lower left corner of the seat base. I do have concerns of using this one as it is for seat securing seat base. The easy access wins at the end.

3. D+ line. This is connected to the first stud in the EK1 box.

4. driver seat removal. It is actually OK just to loosen the 4 bolts and lean the seat to a support backwards, no need to remove it completely by disconnecting the wires.

5. Picture 4 shows its working.

6. in the future, I might still add a switch to the d+ line so I can manually turn the charger off. Right now, it can be turned by the breaker to the house battery.

now can move On to plumbing, etc.
 

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