Does my engine need a rebuild?
- Thread starter taylorm
- Start date
There's a PID I can read via the scan tool for the ECU's crank to cam sync status, and that shows as "OK". But perhaps it's not sensitive enough to measure if it was off a couple degrees?
Cheyenne
UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
And it's only measuring one cam so the other could be off!
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
I have never done it myself, but the service manual has a procedure. I don't recall off hand if the cam gear alignment dots are visible with the valve cover installed or not.
Cheyenne
UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Are the marks possibly visible through the oil filler hole ??? Maybe with a camera scope?
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
The camshaft sensor check isn't precise enough to detect a single tooth off. One tooth is about 5 degrees or so.
Possibly, it may not be significant enough though.
Ok so in my case where I don't think the shop is going to want to try to get out of doing the right thing...
I would need to remove the valve cover and rotate the crank to TDC and check the alignment to eliminate this as a potential cause of the low power issue I'm experiencing. Otherwise is there any other less intrusive way of verifying this, or are there other potential causes for the low power that I should investigate and cross off the list first?
Short of me somehow proving there's a problem myself, I don't think the shop is going to be helpful, which is fine, but I just want to make sure I'm attacking this in the right sequence.
I would need to remove the valve cover and rotate the crank to TDC and check the alignment to eliminate this as a potential cause of the low power issue I'm experiencing. Otherwise is there any other less intrusive way of verifying this, or are there other potential causes for the low power that I should investigate and cross off the list first?
Short of me somehow proving there's a problem myself, I don't think the shop is going to be helpful, which is fine, but I just want to make sure I'm attacking this in the right sequence.
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
I think you might be able to see the dots with a mirror through the vacuum pump drive hole, or maybe with an endoscope through the oil fill hole.
An exhaust obstruction would reduce power a fair bit, but that isn't very common. A bad MAF could do it as well, but again, not common.
What year is this van? (02-03 or 04-06)? 02-03 I would make sure you have no bubbles in the clear lines, and a fresh fuel filter.
An exhaust obstruction would reduce power a fair bit, but that isn't very common. A bad MAF could do it as well, but again, not common.
What year is this van? (02-03 or 04-06)? 02-03 I would make sure you have no bubbles in the clear lines, and a fresh fuel filter.
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lindenengineering
Well-known member
If you remove the vacuum pump as stated you can observe the mating marks .
Dennis
Dennis
Maine-coast
Well-known member
What was the cost of all this work? Just curious. I really need to replace my injectors before I wash out any cylinders!
I don’t have any smoking when warm but the exhaust smells much worse than my other van. Not that I’m out side huffing it!
I don’t have any smoking when warm but the exhaust smells much worse than my other van. Not that I’m out side huffing it!
lindenengineering
Well-known member
Long block ready for injectors and accessories
$7700
Dennis
$7700
Dennis
Maine-coast
Well-known member
Hey Taylorm..just curious what you paid for the engine work. Have you talked to the shop at all?
Taking the van to the shop this morning for its post break-in oil change and going to see if I can get them to admit there's a problem and try to diagnose it.
I paid $11,500 for the long block, but it had a few other problems that ran the bill up from there.
Finally got back from the shop. Of course they were not helpful. Claim everything runs and feels fine. I need some help providing some sort of quantified evidence that something is wrong with this van. Right now, all I have is what I know it should feel like from butt in the seat.
I'm planning to check for exhaust restrictions, then timing (peeping through the vacuum pump hole as suggested), then compression test.
What I would really love to see is some engine readings off my AP2000 that would show fuel flow and air flow that I could then benchmark. All I see is MAF readings in terms of mg/Hub and Fuel pressure, nothing that would indicate total flow which would be helpful.
Any suggestions?
I'm planning to check for exhaust restrictions, then timing (peeping through the vacuum pump hole as suggested), then compression test.
What I would really love to see is some engine readings off my AP2000 that would show fuel flow and air flow that I could then benchmark. All I see is MAF readings in terms of mg/Hub and Fuel pressure, nothing that would indicate total flow which would be helpful.
Any suggestions?
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Injected fuel quantity isn't viewable on the AP200, Only advanced scan tools can access that, as its behind a second level of security/diagnostics on the ECM.
You may be able to connect to the TCM and view the output torque value. Not sure if that will be helpful though.
The MAF reading is mg per revolution (hub). Which is a valid measurement. I don't recall the normal values off hand. The mg/hub value should increase with engine load, but not necessarily with RPM (mg/second would increase with RPM).
You may be able to connect to the TCM and view the output torque value. Not sure if that will be helpful though.
The MAF reading is mg per revolution (hub). Which is a valid measurement. I don't recall the normal values off hand. The mg/hub value should increase with engine load, but not necessarily with RPM (mg/second would increase with RPM).