Rough Idle, Clacking Noise, Slow to Rev

c.helmick

2005 Sprinter 3500
Hi guys!

I have a 2005 3500 RV conversion with the OM647 engine and about two weeks ago I started to notice a few things with my van that weren’t there before. Van has 191k miles.
  • From a stop it is pretty slow to rev up until turbo pressure builds up and then it takes off. This is especially true when the engine is cold.
  • Idle seems to have gotten a little rougher and increased a bit. I can feel a slight pulse in the steering wheel that wasn’t there before and I can potentially hear a faint noise through the dash from the injector area that is in sync with the rough idle. This isn’t noticeable on the tachometer and seems to smooth out when driving.
  • At highway speeds it seems to downshift more when going up inclines than it use to. Previously, when going up an incline it would stay in 5th gear and build up boost. Now, it will shift down to 4th to maintain speed and on some of the steeper 6% and 7% grades in Colorado it will even downshift to 3rd trying to maintain speeds.
  • Occasionally during a cold start there is a brief smell and some exhaust smoke. Both go away after a minute or so and aren’t noticeable when the engine is warm. I haven’t noticed any leaks under the injector cover.
  • Over the past two weeks the engine has developed a pretty noticeable clacking sound. It doesn’t sound like rod knock or a spun bearing, but it is a very distinct noise that wasn’t there before. This seems to go away mostly once the engine is warm too.
Once the van gets moving and up to temperature, everything seems to be alright and on flat ground it seems to have good power. About 4k miles ago my head was replaced with a new one by Wayne Rodd - during that time he said the pistons and cylinder walls both looked good. About 2.5k miles ago Wayne performed an injector leak-off test and a smooth-running test and he said they both passed. In the last 1.5k miles I traveled from Ohio to Colorado and that’s when most of these issues started to come about. Not sure if the high-elevations (5k-10k feet) are having any affects on performance or not, but I suspect not since there are many vans here without issues.

Another thing to note is that I am not getting any codes and all of my fluids and filters were changed before starting the trip out west.

Chase
 
Do you know any of the history of when the injectors were last replaced? Have you been running ULSD or any biodiesel on your trip? How are your operating temperatures on inclines?
 

c.helmick

2005 Sprinter 3500
Do you know any of the history of when the injectors were last replaced? Have you been running ULSD or any biodiesel on your trip? How are your operating temperatures on inclines?
Likely the original injectors, but like I said they passed leak-off tests and smooth-running tests recently. Since I am living in the van, I can’t haven’t them pulled and tested at the moment. I contemplated buying new ones, but didn’t want to spend the $2k+ if it wasn’t absolutely necessary (probably kicking myself now). I asked my mechanic Wayne Rodd about it and he didn’t think so.

I try to buy diesel from large chains, but pretty much every pump I’ve seen since owning the van has said it’s a mix of 5-20% bio. Not sure where people are buying this magical 5% or less.

Operating temps have been pretty great most of the trip. Usually staying between 190-200F. There were a few times on 90F+ plus days where it would get up to that 215-220F mark, but never higher.
 

LowBudgetT1N

Active member
What scanner? Check for codes with proper scanner, codes can be set without cel. Sounds like you have boost and exhaust leaks.
 

c.helmick

2005 Sprinter 3500
What scanner? Check for codes with proper scanner, codes can be set without cel. Sounds like you have boost and exhaust leaks.
I checked with the Autel AP200 and a sprinter mechanic checked with a Snap-On scanner. No codes.

I replaced all the turbo hoses and resonator before the trip. However, I did use the Dorman resonator which I recently found out has a pretty sub-par o-ring so I’ll give that a look. I’m doubtful that a boost leak is what is causing my issues though.

Prior to the trip I replaced all of the turbo seals, as well as the exhaust manifold gasket. Had a few leaks but should be good now.

All of these issues started on this trip from Ohio to Colorado. Pretty much every gas station I’ve stopped at has had a mix of 5-20% biodiesel and it’s green (I thought diesel was blue?). I’m wondering if some of these issues are linked to that possibly?
 

c.helmick

2005 Sprinter 3500
I noticed today that the “clacking” noise seems to be substantially louder when I put the transmission in D or R. When I go back to P the noise is less noticeable, but still present. Not sure what that means.
 

c.helmick

2005 Sprinter 3500
I checked the harmonic balancer before my trip and it looked good. The PO replaced it. Will give it a look tomorrow to make sure it’s not the source of the “clacking” noise.
 
This may not be the smartest idea but If you have someone with you, maybe you could block the wheels and have them put it in reverse and they stand on the brake and see if when your outside the van you could isolate the source of the sound better?
 

c.helmick

2005 Sprinter 3500
OM612 engine...149K miles, all injectors passed leakoff test.

All 5 removed and sent to Williams diesel, 3/5 failed shop testing and were rebuilt.


L3
Yeah, kicking myself for not doing that. Tried to get my mechanic to do it but all he recommended was the leak-off test and smooth-running test. Now I’m 20 hours and 1,500 miles from home living in the van, so taking them out to have them tested isn’t an option at this time.
 

marklg

Well-known member
Yeah, kicking myself for not doing that. Tried to get my mechanic to do it but all he recommended was the leak-off test and smooth-running test. Now I’m 20 hours and 1,500 miles from home living in the van, so taking them out to have them tested isn’t an option at this time.
The leak off test and smooth running tests only show if things are bad some of the time. If it passes those tests, they still might be bad. The Bosch tester is the only definitive test to assure they are good and you want to go to a good shop like Williams that knows what they are doing. L3's story is repeated over and over here on the forums.

Linden is in Colorado. Maybe they can fit you in.

Regards,

Mark
 

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