Drive Shaft Universal Joint Considerations....

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
I just had the good fortune of getting a new 3 piece drive shaft installed under warranty after 61K miles.

The universal joints were diagnosed to be binding.

I have read on the site that some have fitted zirc fittings custom into the drive shaft / u joint area as there are no factory methods available to lube the joints and some have found that there is very little grease even new from the factory, resulting in these early failures of U joints. Seeing as they are not serviceable requiring a complete $1800.00 driveshaft replacement, does it may make sense for me to take my newly installed driveshaft to a driveline shop and have them fit these zirc to make this new one last longer that 60K miles?

Anyone with experience in this preventative maintenance by chance?
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
Thank you for the link.

However these outfits are selling the replaceable universal joints. However, seeing as I just got a new one, I do not need to get them again, but rather look into if I need to have zirc's installed so the joints can be lubed periodically to avoid early failure in the future.

If this new one goes again, and I will be out of warranty, I will be using the replaceable U joint option for sure! :thumbup:
 

220629

Well-known member
...

but rather look into if I need to have zirc's installed so the joints can be lubed periodically to avoid early failure in the future.

...
I don't have specific Sprinter experience adding grease fittings to the U-joints, but I'm certain nobody will be surprised that I still have an opinion.

I have successfully added drive in grease fittings on ball joints and other suspension parts. I was careful when I drilled to try and keep the chips from going inside, but I'm certain many still did. My logic was that the parts were tight and were moving relatively slowly so chips would likely not hurt much. I always greased the parts until I could just see the rubber begin to expand, then I would stop. I feel it was very successful because I never had one of those modified parts fail even though the longevity of the OEM parts was in many cases terrible without adding grease fittings.

That said, I would never add fittings to a U-joint because the needle bearings do move quite a bit and any chip could easily scuff a surface and send you to an early failure. I doubt the OEM U-joint crosses are drilled through so that means a fitting for each cup which increases the risk. Maybe others have had different experiences.

I hear what you're saying about grease being a good thing. I've often wondered if a grease needle followed by a dab of sealant is worth the risk. Up until now it's all wonder because I've never tried it.

Good luck. vic
 

Jsloane

and his elephants
Several months ago I replaced the OEM driveshaft after the carrier bearing failed. I had no confidence that the replacement OEM shaft & carrier bearing assembly would hold up any better than the original. My local driveshaft man heard my doubts and ordered a complete driveshaft replacement made in the USA. It came a week later from a supplier in Tulsa. The new driveshaft had replaceable Spicer U-joints (but no zerk fittings) and a very beefy carrier assembly. It was about $525, an easy install with perfect performance.

Even though the driveshaft fits my Sprinter, my driveshaft man assured me it was made with virtually the same components as on heavy-duty US pick-up trucks. If something fails it isn't going to cost as much as the MB version. And the OEM driveshaft wasn't very robust to begin with.

In the photo the original driveshaft (which developed a hideous squeak at 80K miles) is at the top. The Tulsa driveshaft is at bottom.
 

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kkanuck

LUV my T1N
I don't have specific Sprinter experience adding grease fittings to the U-joints, but I'm certain nobody will be surprised that I still have an opinion.

I have successfully added drive in grease fittings on ball joints and other suspension parts. I was careful when I drilled to try and keep the chips from going inside, but I'm certain many still did. My logic was that the parts were tight and were moving relatively slowly so chips would likely not hurt much. I always greased the parts until I could just see the rubber begin to expand, then I would stop. I feel it was very successful because I never had one of those modified parts fail even though the longevity of the OEM parts was in many cases terrible without adding grease fittings.

That said, I would never add fittings to a U-joint because the needle bearings do move quite a bit and any chip could easily scuff a surface and send you to an early failure. I doubt the OEM U-joint crosses are drilled through so that means a fitting for each cup which increases the risk. Maybe others have had different experiences.

I hear what you're saying about grease being a good thing. I've often wondered if a grease needle followed by a dab of sealant is worth the risk. Up until now it's all wonder because I've never tried it.

Good luck. vic
Thanks for the input Vic,

My main point here is for an $1800.00 driveshaft to go in 60K miles, (makes the DPF maintenance cost issue on NCV3's not seem as bad...) seems premature in my opinion.


I also think this issue is a lot more common (on the T1N anyway.) then previously thought. The noise starts almost unnoticeable, and gets louder, progressively, as the joint deteriorates and starts binding. I think that more of this will arise as time goes on.

If there is nothing to preventative to protect my new one from going bad so quick, so be it, I just thought I read somewhere about someone putting zirc's in, but there were no photo's.

Sure is nice have the vibration gone I have to say:thumbup:
 
When I was a parts mgr in 2 Chevy dealerships, there were u-joints made w/o zerk fittings for Chevy. GMC pick-ups used u-joints made w/zerks. I purchased the joints w/zerks, but found no difference in the lifespan of the parts. Those u-joints were made by Spicer. The GMC parts were less expensive than the Chevy parts, no reason, they just were.
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
Several months ago I replaced the OEM driveshaft after the carrier bearing failed. I had no confidence that the replacement OEM shaft & carrier bearing assembly would hold up any better than the original. My local driveshaft man heard my doubts and ordered a complete driveshaft replacement made in the USA. It came a week later from a supplier in Tulsa. The new driveshaft had replaceable Spicer U-joints (but no zerk fittings) and a very beefy carrier assembly. It was about $525, an easy install with perfect performance.

Even though the driveshaft fits my Sprinter, my driveshaft man assured me it was made with virtually the same components as on heavy-duty US pick-up trucks. If something fails it isn't going to cost as much as the MB version. And the OEM driveshaft wasn't very robust to begin with.

In the photo the original driveshaft (which developed a hideous squeak at 80K miles) is at the top. The Tulsa driveshaft is at bottom.


Thanks Jay,

This is definitely the route I take when failure # 2 happens in 60K to 80K miles on this newly installed one.

So far, I have learned of outfits in FL, OK and OR that make custom Sprinter Drive Shafts! :thumbup:
 

Hoppingmad

Member
My main point here is for an $1800.00 driveshaft to go in 60K miles, (makes the DPF maintenance cost issue on NCV3's not seem as bad...) seems premature in my opinion.

Oh the ncv3 have a better ujoint?
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
My local driveshaft man heard my doubts and ordered a complete driveshaft replacement made in the USA. It came a week later from a supplier in Tulsa. The new driveshaft had replaceable Spicer U-joints (but no zerk fittings) and a very beefy carrier assembly. It was about $525, an easy install with perfect performance.
Jay: Do you have a name and/or website?
 

Jsloane

and his elephants
Try these guys:

http://www.driveshaftsoftulsa.com/automotive but it might be simpler to call them at (800) 344-5141.

My driveshaft man in South Florida, Richard at Driveshaft Power Inc, (561-433-1200) ordered the driveshaft and could have installed it but it was within my DIY limits. Time & miles will tell but I really believe my USA driveshaft will last longer than the OEM.
 
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pgr

Active member
I've had start up vibrations on my '04 pass van for a long time. recently I'm getting a lot of vibs between 40 - 60 MPH under load. I looked under and have a 2 piece driveshaft and the u shaped guard (not a hanger) on the front shaft has worn a ring around the shaft, not deep, but it is definitely hitting it at times. Does this sound like a set of bad u joints? I have 108K miles on it. Does anyone know of a recommended driveshaft repair shop in Eastern MA or the NH Seacoast area?

Thanks,

pgr
 

220629

Well-known member
...

recently I'm getting a lot of vibs between 40 - 60 MPH under load.

...

pgr
Pgr,
Is your transmission fluid old or do you run fairly hard service? Spent transmission fluid can mimic other drive train symptoms. If yes, you might look over this thread:

Rumble Strip Noise Transmission Drive Train Shudder
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5027

One traditional method of checking for U-joint problems is to keep the driver's door open, hold the brakes on, shift from reverse to forward and back again a few times while listening for clunking noises. A good carrier bearing should not be hot to the touch after driving a bit.... warm is OK, hot is not. These are preliminary tests. Better tests should be employed to verify the bad parts before becoming a parts changer.

Sorry I can't help more with all your questions. Good luck. vic
 

blisspacket

2002 T1N, 2014 I4-7spd
Ujoints can generally be found with a center zerk that can be greased in place by rotating the driveshaft to provide the clearance needed for the greasegun. $1800 is a steep price for a driveshaft, and I'd rather press out the old ujoints and install new ones. The caps and the center X are hardened forged steel; pretty impossible stuff to drill.

Great preventive maint. notion to zerk all the ball joints; I've done that on VW Vans. Readily doable and saves the big bucks down the road....
 

220629

Well-known member
...
I've done that on VW Vans. Readily doable and saves the big bucks down the road....
Blisspacket,
Funny....the old VW's are where I first started doing that. I got tired of replacing those ball joints and being that I'm basically lazy I looked for a way to avoid it. I never needed to replace a grease adapted ball joint.

Good point about the hardened caps on the u-joints.:thumbup: I hadn't even considered that, not that I think it would be a good idea anyway.

It seems a more traditional drive shaft may be a good idea for DIY long term owners. That said, my purchased used 2004 has over 200,000 miles and probably still has the OEM drive shaft (knocking wood furiously now). vic
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
Ujoints can generally be found with a center zerk that can be greased in place by rotating the driveshaft to provide the clearance needed for the greasegun. $1800 is a steep price for a driveshaft, and I'd rather press out the old ujoints and install new ones. The caps and the center X are hardened forged steel; pretty impossible stuff to drill.

Great preventive maint. notion to zerk all the ball joints; I've done that on VW Vans. Readily doable and saves the big bucks down the road....
This was my thought....where can I have zirc's fitted as not sure I could do it myself?

Any idea's?

Cheers,
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
PGR.
If your jiont was that far out it would have let go. The most likely problem you have is a broken rear engine mount. Eric.
 

Heineken

New member
Try these guys:

http://www.driveshaftsoftulsa.com/automotive but it might be simpler to call them at (800) 344-5141.

My driveshaft man in South Florida, Richard at Driveshaft Power Inc, (561-433-1200) ordered the driveshaft and could have installed it but it was within my DIY limits. Time & miles will tell but I really believe my USA driveshaft will last longer than the OEM.
I believe I purchased the same drive shaft, the problem I have is that on the new drive shaft the U-joint flange is beefier than the OEM so the OEM bolts securing it to the gearbox and rear differential are about 5 mm shorter. I'm having trouble locating a place that has the bolts I need. The OEM bolt is a M10 x 1.00 pitch 25 or 30 mm long and it's grade(class) 10.9 . I can't find a bolt with the following specs anywhere. (M10 x 1.00 pitch 35mm long or longer class 10.9)
Any feedback/help is greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.
 

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