118" driveshaft replacement in late 2021

[sarl_cagan]

My Sprinter came with all kinds of issues... right when I think I've solved one issue, another one rears it's ugly head. My goal is to serve up some information that I thought could be useful for those in a similar position in the future.

Background (or see my original post HERE): I've now got a whine and a vibration in my 2006 118" SHC. Sure enough, the pinion gear DID have a rough life and was confirmed chipped. I just had the diff totally rebuilt and while the old noise grinding noise is gone, I still have some whining and some vibration. I *think* some of this vibration is RSN. But it seems like maybe it's not just that. (it could also be a bad transmission...) The local Sprinter shop recommended replacing the center support bearing as the likely culprit... I'm not getting any "clunks" so my thoughts are that the U-joints can't be THAT bad themselves... but what do I know? I cannot feel any movement in the U-joints themselves. I don't have the means currently to remove the driveshaft and feel them in an unconstrained state to confirm. Doktor A's post is ringing in the back of my mind here.

(edit - added sound clip) HERE is a link to the noises I'm currently hearing (for some reason called SE 52ND AVE 3).
- at the beginning of the clip, you'll hear what sounds like a classic "bomb dropping" whistle... that's the high pitched sound. There's another sound that is more of a lower pitched whine. Both of these are on decellation. (NOTE: the "bomb dropping" whistle is also on acceleration and is purely speed related).
- at 0:19 I hit a bump. Unrelated.

(edit - added link to my carrier bearing video) HERE is a link to the carrier bearing video I made (a little harder to hear the sounds due to the motor.

SO, instead of *just* replacing the center support bearing, I thought I'd look into bulletproofing the whole thing with a new driveshaft *with* replaceable U-Joints. I've spoken with the Sprinter shop ahead of time and they are nice enough to agree to install this for me. I know (and understand why), the usual course of action would be to install an OEM driveshaft (with non-replaceable U-joints).

To the best of my knowledge, the OEM part numbers for a 118" WB driveshaft are the following:
Dodge: 05129034AA
Mercedes-Benz (translated from the Dodge number using the "Chry to MB" PDF: A9014108606

Edit: HERE is an older thread with some good info as well.

Below is a snapshot of my research and what I believe are the options out there right now (Nov. 2021):

Option 1 - sort of) Powertrain Industries (Reno, NV) seems to be the "go-to" here... BUT it seems they have transitioned to only wholesale stuff. They seem to outsource their "consumer" work to a place called Driveshaft Pro. As a normal guy (with no commercial account number) I was kindly (not joking here) told by Powertrain Industries to call Driveshaft Pro directly. (edit: a live - as of today - link HERE)

Option 1A) Driveshaft Pro (Gardena branch) seems willing and able to ship parts in 48 hours (fastest option so far). This is my first choice right now. The current cost is ~$650 ($590 + shipping). The warranty here is 1 year unlimited mileage. (edit: a live - as of today - link HERE)

Option 2) Driveshaft Services of Portland - Their website has a special Sprinter callout... but they don't do the work themselves any more and outsource to... Powertrain Industries. Bummer because this would have been really convenient and local if they still made them. Nuts!

Option 3) Wholesale Imports - I read a post about a (140" WB) replacement purchased here. This is the least expensive option at $604 including shipping. Lead time was a bit longer at 4-5 days. They claim made in the USA and a warranty is also 1 year unlimited miles. (edit: a live - as of today - link HERE)

Option 4) Driveshaft Specialists of Texas - I have seen multiple references to this outfit here on this forum so I gave them a call. Super helpful... but also stated that they are not willing to make these any more due to challenges fitting the center support bearing. There were fit issues of some sort... not impossible to fit... but more difficult and because of it they were getting a lot of returns. This lead to them not wanting to deal with it any longer. The 118" might be an exception to this. I was also pointed to Powertrain Industries again. Sounds like this could still be a potential option, but with some asterisks and a slightly longer lead time. I was told the parts were available though.

Option 5) Dorman - Part number 936-404. If purchased at Autozone (for $766.99) , they offer a "limited lifetime warranty". I asked for further details on this.. like if a u-joint goes bad in 10 years, I can get the driveshaft replaced? The answer at the local store was "yep". Shipping could be very quick to the store. I'm unsure how to feel about this as a whole. You can also get this on Amazon. I called Dorman to ask about warranty and was told that the warranty is determined by the retailer that sells the driveshaft.

Option 6) Mercedes-Benz - my cursory search shows that many places don't have the OEM (non-replaceable U-joints) in stock.

Option 7) replace my carrier bearing with OEM... and hope to a deity that its not my U-joints and won't be any time soon.

edit: Option 8) Drive Shafts Inc in Tulsa OK - One more shop I found from an old thread. I did not call them myself... so no updated info as of today.

SO, Am I approaching this in an acceptable way? I have a hard time gauging quality for any of these options.

I hope this summary helps others in a similar situation. I also welcome any comments and/or recommendations you all might have. Anyone else gone through this recently?

 

[jrod5150]

For some odd reason all my driveshaft issues have been with 118 vans. On the last one which was a real pain it had a sort of tinging sound at idle along with some vibration etc. I knew someone with a used 118 driveshaft. Part swapped and the tinging at idle was gone. Vibration seemed gone as well but after a week or so it seemed to return. Heavy line shop I use diagnosed it has the rear end. I happened to have a 118 rear end laying around so swapped it, same issue. Finally the shop decided to drill the RSN mod and that fixed all of the issues. They were not happy about the rear end labor of course but I still paid them for the labor and they gave me a really good discount. Moral of the story is start with the easiest if there's no smoking gun. Id recommend you perform the RSN mod if you haven't yet then the driveshaft.

Good job digging up driveshaft options and posting them. Personally id avoid dorman unless its made in a place other than Chinese

 

[sarl_cagan]

For some odd reason all my driveshaft issues have been with 118 vans.

Weird! ? (hmmmmmm..... I can’t help but think of THIS again... but truthfully it could be a totally different entirely unrelated solution to a different problem...)
Edit: interestingly, it does specifically mention the medium and shorter wheelbase vans. (2 piece instead of 3?). I wonder which vans this applies to and which it doesn’t. What could be the variation? Anyways... maybe entirely unrelated.

I've asked the local shop if they do the RSN modification. We'll see!
Thanks for the input @jrod5150

 

[Midwestdrifter]

If I had a 118 with driveshaft issues, I would just have a new one piece shaft made. You need two flange yokes, which are available in 1350 I think. Then a 4" steel or 5" aluminum tube with integral slip joint. Any driveshaft shop should be able to do it for reasonable cost. I would say 500-800$ depending on your region.

 

[ECU]

Having 400,000 miles on my u-joints, I'd think that they don't fail that often. Sealed at the factory and all that.

 

[wanderingkiwi]

It's interesting, I'm following in your footsteps with my 118" SHC

I'm also getting my diff rebuilt on Dec 2nd to fix a failing pinion bearing.

I'm also leanding toward replacing the driveshaft on mine as well but for different reasons. My sprinter has a RV tow dolly kit with a driveshaft disconnect mechanism which I really would like to eliminate. Unfortunately this requires a whole new driveshaft.

I called Driveshaft Specialists of Texas last week and they told me that all parts were in stock and they could have one build in a couple of weeks. In theory I do like their use of maintainable Spicer U joints, however their solution also requires a non OEM sized carrier bearing/fitting.

I'm about to contact MB to see what the pricing and availability of the OEM shaft is. I'm sure I'll put me off the whole idea haha.

I don't care that the MB U joints are pressed and not replaceable as I expect a new shaft to be good for hundreds of thousands of miles.

Anyway thanks again for all the leg work you've done on this subject, hoping we can both quit the whiney 118 club soon!

 

[Cheyenne]

My sprinter has a RV tow dolly kit with a driveshaft disconnect mechanism which I really would like to eliminate.

I'd imagine this would have a market if you were to remove it and offer it for sale.

 

[wanderingkiwi]

I'd imagine this would have a market if you were to remove it and offer it for sale.

Yeah I'm in two minds about it. It could be potentially useful if I needed to be towed a long distance, touch wood I won't.
But part of me just wants to simplify things as much as possible. It's a bit rusty and could with some restoration work.

 

[sarl_cagan]

Sealed at the factory and all that.

Kind of like our "sealed for life" transmissions? Who knows what the PO did to my van before me.

I'm following in your footsteps with my 118" SHC

I called Driveshaft Specialists of Texas last week

@wanderingkiwi what are the odds! Good luck to you over there.

I'm about to contact MB to see what the pricing and availability of the OEM shaft is.

If you can, please post what you learn.

Also, not to derail my own thread here... but post a photo of that decoupler if you can/want... just for fun.

 

[sarl_cagan]

Nuts... missed my edit window on the first post. Apparently my "youtube music" link isn't working. Attached is a zipped MP3 of my "whistle"... I'll update when/if I figure out what this is... in the meantime, anyone heard anything like this?

 

[wanderingkiwi]

If you can, please post what you learn.

Also, not to derail my own thread here... but post a photo of that decoupler if you can/want... just for fun.

Just back from the MB dealer and the official status of the MB driveshaft/carrier bearing assy for the 118" (A9014108606) is "no longer being made" There is also no stock anywhere in the US. For reference the price for that part was listed at $990

Oh well, I guess I'll be looking into non MB alternatives.

Here's a shot of the decoupler that was installed by the previous owner of my sprinter. There's a pull knob on the floor in the cab which disconnects the diff from the driveshaft at this linkage point.



as you can see it needs a bit of TLC. Looking at it now those U-joints don't look standard either. I'm even wondering now if my driveshaft is even OEM. Ultimately I would like to rip it all out and simplify with a standard Driveshaft. I'm all about eliminating potential failure points.

 

[sarl_cagan]

Hi @wanderingkiwi, it looks like we are both doing the same project today.

Thanks for posting that photo. Interesting! Was this a factory option!? Or a custom install? You are correct... with those snap rings on yours, your U-joints appear to be replaceable... aka not OEM.

I've made a few calls today... just to clue you in if you happened to need it.

1) Driveshafts Inc in Tulsa was more than happy to make and ship a driveshaft but they wanted me to go out and grab dimensions for them. I decided not to because their estimate was $875-900 including shipping.

2) Driveshaft Pro (Gardena branch) may have a "refurb" in stock. I say they MAY have one because that's what they told me. I've asked for details on it twice but they must be busy or maybe it's buried under many other old driveshafts in a distant warehouse. I believe it was something like $325 $309 (I just reviewed my notes... yes $309 for the whole thing!.. but I'd recommend clarifying as I'm not sure that included shipping). Supposedly inspected, up to spec, and includes full typical warranty. Unsure on U-joint company on the refurb unit. Could be a great option if you're not in a hurry and willing to roll the dice. No one knows why it came back. Maybe it's fine? Maybe it's not? Out of respect for the wonderful shop I'm taking mine to, I didn't want to hand them a "refurb" to install. I was also informed they are OUT of Spicer 1350 U-joints and would be using Neapco U-joints on a newly built shaft. Could be a great option if you're not in a hurry. Out of respect for the wonderful shop I'm taking mine to, I didn't want to hand them a "refurb" to install.

3) Wholesale Import Parts uses non-greasable Spicer "Life" 1350 U-joints. Their website says "Spicer XL HD" and I couldn't really find much on that model so I had to ask to clarify. Shipping and lead time is a bit longer but I pulled the trigger on one of theirs just now because I really wanted the Spicer U-joints (call me picky). I spoke with Jose there. A very nice and helpful guy and he's familiar with all my questions about a 2006 SHC 118" Sprinter. Maybe he'll get a kick out of two 118" Sprinter orders in one day. To be extra, extra clear, I also confirmed the carrier bearing is replaceable. In the unlikely case that the whole thing doesn't bolt up nicely, a return is possible. My total was $608 (in November 2021 dollars).

Good luck!

(edits ... changed wording for clarity and added more detail)

 

[sarl_cagan]

Derailing my own thread again but as to that decoupler, I see some design characteristics similar to this THIS one. I wonder if it's one of these:

 

[sarl_cagan]

A couple of updates for those down the road:

If it wasn't clear above, I did end up purchasing a 118" WB driveshaft from Wholesale Import Parts (WIP) and I've had a few noteworthy experiences with it that I wanted to share. For completeness, I had the driveshaft shipped to my local mechanic and the mechanic was the one who did the install. I was told the install was straight forward and the van seemed to drive pretty much exactly as it did with the old one (my whines and vibrations were still present). In other words, I don't think the old driveshaft/carrier bearing was actually the issue.

1) Center Support Bearing housing is not a perfect fit - While troubleshooting vibrations in my van, I found out that the center support bearing was not quite clamped down all the way by the mechanic. I took it back to the shop and behind closed doors it was remedied (I hope I still have healthy threads in my frame ). I was told that upon second inspection, the mounting holes in the center support bering (AKA carrier bearing) housing did not quite line up with the holes in the Sprinter body and that caused the second bolt to bind. The holes/slots had to be enlarged/elongated a little to let the bearing housing sit flat on the frame. Note: when I was researching driveshafts, Driveshaft Specialists of Texas said they were running into the same issue. Maybe they use the same off-the-shelf carrier bearing.
Recommendation: If you or your mechanic are going to install a WIP driveshaft, pay extra attention to the fit of the center support bearing.

2) My Wholesale Import Parts driveshaft was likely made by Powertrain Industries (PTI) - As as attempt to diagnose my strange vibration issue, I took the van to a drivetrain expert in town (diffs, transmissions, and they make their own driveshafts). I was asked where my new driveshaft came from and I said "Wholesale Import Parts"... and he said "thats scary". There was a pile of driveshafts on the counter next to me and I pointed to one and said "Mine looks exactly like this one (stickers, pen markings, paint, overall look". He said he thought the one I pointed to was a PTI driveshaft.

3) My WIP center support bearing doesn't seem quite as nicely sealed - I noticed on @hkpierce Dorman Driveshaft thread that their center support bearing has what looks like a metal dust cap. Mine did not come with one... or, the mechanic didn't bother to put mine on . I just see grease in mine. I hope I'm not overlooking something obvious here. Also, the zerk fitting on the metal dust cap seems to be different than the Dorman version.



Hope this helps.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

As a note PTI shafts are a crapshoot, with many (for other applications) being badly out of balance from the box.

 

[sarl_cagan]

Good to know! Unless a person is swapping and/or balancing driveshafts themself, a "year long, unlimited mile" warranty is really no good if you need to spend a couple hundred bucks to check the balance and learn you need to use it. Might a well just fix/balance it and use it at that point.

I actually had an appointment to have it removed and balanced... but cancelled it because I figured the drivetrain shop would have ruled that out. Maybe I gotta follow up on that and see if they did or didn't double check that.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

Driveshaft vibration is always tied to vehicle speed. When in 4th gear, it will be 1 or 2x the engine RPM. 1x the RPM for balance, 2x the rpm for U joint angle issues.

If changing the gear changes the vibration or if the vibration is engine RPM, but not vehicle speed dependent, its not the driveshaft.

The vibration analysis app I have, lets me record the vibration input. Then I scroll through the graph, and select a section to find the primary and secondary frequecies. Its easy to compare them to the engine RPM and wheel RPM.

 

[sarl_cagan]

@Midwestdrifter, I have an older iPhone. What is the name of the app do you use? Edit: I do have friends with Android phones though.

 

[Midwestdrifter]

myFrequency is the name. I don't know if there is an iOS version.

 

[3Play]

I had mine rebuild with zirc'd u joints by Precision in Tucson, about $450, he does great work, but it may take 2 weeks, he's always backed up.
I also bought one online from some seller in Kansas for $249 (really!) I figured for that price, I would use it while mine was being rebuilt.
It was slightly narrower, all straight pipe. Probably the same as the PTI referenced before.
It vibrated badly immediately, It felt like the front joint was probably non centered. I plan to have Tim at Precision fix it and then give it to a friend...