jdcaples
Not Suitable w/220v Gen
This write up is inspired by this thread: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9996
The thread is full of "ideas," so it drifts around a bit.
For the inspiration of this specific write up, start at about posting number 21.
Here is a picture of the two parts, off vehicle:
The newer, redesigned one is on the left. Carl said that the new design looks like a "J". Personally, I think it looks more like a question mark with the splat on the bottom (so I improvised with my camera lens cover).
One side has a classic, worm-gear clamp that attaches on the front side of the engine compartment (the charge air cooler). The charge air cooler has a nipple on it, about 2 inches in outside diameter (OD) with a hose-end single barb making the full circumference of the nipple. (Sorry, no pictures).
The other side inserts into a metal pipe. On this side, the hose adapter is locked into place with a funky hunk of bent metal wire that MB calls a "Spring Clamp." (Again, no picture off vehicle).
The clamp does not traverse the entire circumference of the mating joint. The hose end has a bump (nub) on each side of it. An analog opening on the engine side of the fitting has two holes through which the nubs protrude and may be locked into place by - you guessed it - the Spring Clamp. It probably covers about 190-210 degrees around the fitting (note, if geometry was too long ago, 360 degrees is all the way around and 180 is 1/2 way around).
The Spring Clamp is brass colored; the ends are bent at a 90 degree angle and when installed, the ends point towards the engine, not the hose. This is the area on the engine side of the hose, where the Spring Clamp sits after installation (poorly drawn in red using Microsoft Paint).
Warning: Don't malform the Spring Clamp when you take it off. Be gentle.
If you're like me and you don't know for a fact how to get the Spring Clamp off correctly, you can use a flat screw driver or a pair of needle nose pliers to apply a modest amount of tension - in the protrusion of the clamp (away from the fitting) - to help coax the Spring Clamp away from the hose end fitting.
Simultaneously, use a free finger to grab the edge of the Spring Clamp (the end bit that points "up") and pull the end outwards from the fitting.
The Spring Clamp should release and you should be able to remove it w/o much effort.
Set the Spring Clamp down on the ground with the ends pointed up (to remind you that the ends need to point away from the hose and up towards the engine when you put the Spring Clamp back on).
Once the Spring Clamp is off, you may then turn your attention to the other side of the hose, with the traditional, worm-gear clamp.
Use an 8mm socket on a 1/4" driver to loosen it, then you're free. Don't think about the slot in the fastener and think "screw driver." That slot is a cruel joke, a red herring, a distraction at best.... unless of course all you have are standard, non metric sockets, but then why are you driving a Sprinter w/o a full set of metric sockets?
To install it, I put the worm-gear clamp side on first, but I did not tighten it down. I inserted the engine side next and fiddled with the Spring Clamp. Once I was pretty sure the hose was properly oriented on both sides, I tightened down the worm-gear clamp (8mm socket works better than a screw driver, in spite of the temptation to use a screw driver).
Here's the new hose installed.
Now, here's the caveat.
Getting the Spring Clamp seated properly can be challenging if you've never done this before, like me.
You know it's done right when you can't scoot the clamp around the circumference of the fitting, or move it easily up and down.
You know it's done right if you can't easily pull the hose out of the engine side fitting. DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE YET.
You know it's wrong when you start the engine and - while parked - rev it to, say 2200 RPMs and you hear a big, low pitched "pop" followed by a "Whoosh" sound.
If this happens to you, stop the engine and re-seat the clamp, again, and again, and again, and again, and again.
Yeah, it took me 5 tries to get the Spring Clamp seated.
The last time, I heard a very positive "snap" into place.
After rev'ing the engine about 1/2 dozen times to be certain, I checked the front side of the hose again and took it for a test drive. Then I returned, hooked up StarMOBILE and was happy to learn that I didn't toss any codes.
Personal opinion: I don't think I needed to do this. I realize that other people - esp you crazy RVers with the heavy loads; or owners that make their home in hot, or dusty or dry environments - but really, if you live in Seattle, get the new hose, like I did, but wait until you need to install it.
-Jon
The thread is full of "ideas," so it drifts around a bit.
For the inspiration of this specific write up, start at about posting number 21.
Here is a picture of the two parts, off vehicle:
The newer, redesigned one is on the left. Carl said that the new design looks like a "J". Personally, I think it looks more like a question mark with the splat on the bottom (so I improvised with my camera lens cover).
One side has a classic, worm-gear clamp that attaches on the front side of the engine compartment (the charge air cooler). The charge air cooler has a nipple on it, about 2 inches in outside diameter (OD) with a hose-end single barb making the full circumference of the nipple. (Sorry, no pictures).
The other side inserts into a metal pipe. On this side, the hose adapter is locked into place with a funky hunk of bent metal wire that MB calls a "Spring Clamp." (Again, no picture off vehicle).
The clamp does not traverse the entire circumference of the mating joint. The hose end has a bump (nub) on each side of it. An analog opening on the engine side of the fitting has two holes through which the nubs protrude and may be locked into place by - you guessed it - the Spring Clamp. It probably covers about 190-210 degrees around the fitting (note, if geometry was too long ago, 360 degrees is all the way around and 180 is 1/2 way around).
The Spring Clamp is brass colored; the ends are bent at a 90 degree angle and when installed, the ends point towards the engine, not the hose. This is the area on the engine side of the hose, where the Spring Clamp sits after installation (poorly drawn in red using Microsoft Paint).
Warning: Don't malform the Spring Clamp when you take it off. Be gentle.
If you're like me and you don't know for a fact how to get the Spring Clamp off correctly, you can use a flat screw driver or a pair of needle nose pliers to apply a modest amount of tension - in the protrusion of the clamp (away from the fitting) - to help coax the Spring Clamp away from the hose end fitting.
Simultaneously, use a free finger to grab the edge of the Spring Clamp (the end bit that points "up") and pull the end outwards from the fitting.
The Spring Clamp should release and you should be able to remove it w/o much effort.
Set the Spring Clamp down on the ground with the ends pointed up (to remind you that the ends need to point away from the hose and up towards the engine when you put the Spring Clamp back on).
Once the Spring Clamp is off, you may then turn your attention to the other side of the hose, with the traditional, worm-gear clamp.
Use an 8mm socket on a 1/4" driver to loosen it, then you're free. Don't think about the slot in the fastener and think "screw driver." That slot is a cruel joke, a red herring, a distraction at best.... unless of course all you have are standard, non metric sockets, but then why are you driving a Sprinter w/o a full set of metric sockets?
To install it, I put the worm-gear clamp side on first, but I did not tighten it down. I inserted the engine side next and fiddled with the Spring Clamp. Once I was pretty sure the hose was properly oriented on both sides, I tightened down the worm-gear clamp (8mm socket works better than a screw driver, in spite of the temptation to use a screw driver).
Here's the new hose installed.
Now, here's the caveat.
Getting the Spring Clamp seated properly can be challenging if you've never done this before, like me.
You know it's done right when you can't scoot the clamp around the circumference of the fitting, or move it easily up and down.
You know it's done right if you can't easily pull the hose out of the engine side fitting. DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE YET.
You know it's wrong when you start the engine and - while parked - rev it to, say 2200 RPMs and you hear a big, low pitched "pop" followed by a "Whoosh" sound.
If this happens to you, stop the engine and re-seat the clamp, again, and again, and again, and again, and again.
Yeah, it took me 5 tries to get the Spring Clamp seated.
The last time, I heard a very positive "snap" into place.
After rev'ing the engine about 1/2 dozen times to be certain, I checked the front side of the hose again and took it for a test drive. Then I returned, hooked up StarMOBILE and was happy to learn that I didn't toss any codes.
Personal opinion: I don't think I needed to do this. I realize that other people - esp you crazy RVers with the heavy loads; or owners that make their home in hot, or dusty or dry environments - but really, if you live in Seattle, get the new hose, like I did, but wait until you need to install it.
-Jon
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