Behemoth Rising - 40ft 5th Wheel Conversion

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence

I had a bit of a fear of snakes, but a friend of mine breeds them, and after handling a few, it doesn't really bother me anymore (rattlers etc excluded). I am not a fan of spiders either, but tolerate them enough that I don't break into a cold sweat when a huge spider appears in a horror flick.

Aside from a snake getting caught in your serpentine belt, I haven't ever heard of them damaging a vehicle either. As opposed to the vermin...
 

Rocksnsalt

There Can Be Only ONE
Interesting about the change in pattern and coloring being normal, I did not know that.
And per the article, I did originally have to look twice at your photo to confirm that was just one snake not two.

Dear snakes, stay outta my area and we’ll be fine.
I’ve run into more rattlers than gopher snakes in my life.

Friend of mine was sleeping on the slab of an unfinished home in Cabo and woke up to a gopher snake snuggling up behind him.
F THAT!

He did come home with a tiny bug eyed orphaned orange kitten from that trip, named him Cabo. Smuggled it in his jacket when they drove back across the border. It went everywhere with him in his VW van and more than once it brought a gopher play toy (still flopping around) into the van while parked near a bluff at the beach. 🤣

Anyway I hope those snakes do a good job for you, stay out of your path, and they don’t try any snuggling.
 
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rollerbearing

Well-known member
I read somewhere not long ago that Rattlers have become less Rattle-lery. Seems we've killed plenty of the noisy ones and have therefore been selecting the less noisy evolutions.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I read somewhere not long ago that Rattlers have become less Rattle-lery. Seems we've killed plenty of the noisy ones and have therefore been selecting the less noisy evolutions.

Correct, I read a study on parts of New Mexico and Arizona with high rattlesnake population, it determined that rattlesnake populations that were adjacent to human areas actually had a reduced prevalence of rattling as a warning response.

In areas where human presence wasn't common rattlesnakes had a greater than 97% rattle response and it usually was fairly vigorous. If I were call correctly and human adjacent areas it dropped to 80% or lower.

The population of rattlesnakes wasn't significantly impacted as long as there was sufficient rodents they had no problem doing their thing. So in the end killing rattlesnakes on sight was actually a bad idea.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
The LG Thinq cloud integration for HA has been getting progressively less reliable. I could add state check loops to my automation, but its annoying enough that I was going to try and reverse engineer the wired thermostat protocol myself. However looks like someone else already did.


Using ESPhome and a couple signal control components, its possible to have full bi-directional communication with the head units. Including turning off the stupid chime any time a command is sent.

So I ordered 5 PCB (minimum quantity from JLBPCB, dumb tariffs only double the price). If anyone wants the extra 2 PCBs drop me a PM.

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Socketed an ESP32 dev board. I don't remember if my units have the jumper cable internally. Otherwise I will just buy or make one, its a pretty standard connector. Now I just need to program them and pair with HA.

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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
The ESPhome LG split interfaces work well. Don't use a straight through cable, you need to reverse the positive and negative (out pins) the center pin is LINbus.

A couple things. You need to toggle the "internal thermistor" to on, as its off in software by default. Without this HA won't report the units measured air temp. You can supply a temperature from any entity you want to the head unit via HA, and it will use that temp to control its operation. This can be useful to prevent short cycling, or to force the unit to run at max capacity until the temp is reached. For example the built in hysteresis allows the room temp by several degrees until it hits full output. I am not currently using this feature, but its nice to have.

Getting everything to work was otherwise just a matter of changing the device name in my automations and Node Red. Though you could just rename the old device, and rename the new ESPhome sourced device the same, and it would just work.

Finally, I have no chimes when settings are changed! Even LGs cloud service would do this, but not with the ESPhome interface.

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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Ended up troubleshooting the Node Red issue down to a bug in the integration. Switched over to manual MQTT connection instead of using the canned integration. The local control of the LG Splits is working great.

Solar Assistant recently released a beta with integrates solar harvest forecasting. Entering your systems configuration, orientation, and panel coefficients, allows it to generate a reasonably accurate harvest estimate. With a bit of tweaking I think I can get it pretty accurate. The major use of this data is in automations. The automation feature in Solar-Assistant now supports using PV forecast. Allowing two criteria to be checked. Once this feature is out of beta, I will adjust my grid charge rules with a few tweaks. That way I can bring the pack down to 10-15% in the mornings where the PV harvest is expected to be good for the day.

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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
The LG mini splits (like many brands) use a power consumption optimizing logic. This causes the unit to increase or decrease output as the setpoint and room temp diverge. This results in the room temp being several degrees above the cooling setpoint if the cooling demand exceeds 50% of the head units nominal output.

With the ESPHOME-LG integration, I have the option of supplying my own room temp, instead of the internal thermistor. This opens up a number of automation options.

In this case I created a helper in HA, which uses the following template to add an offset to the room temp (supplied via another sensor device) when the room temp is to far above the setpoint in cooling mode. Unfortunately setting the unit to use an external sensor seems to stop reporting of the internal sensor. This would be useful for fallback, if the external sensor goes offline. I have a if statement to fallback to the internal sensor, assuming I can figure out how to change the config of the ESPhome device to report that value as a different entity.

The helper could easily be modified for heating mode. There is an option called overheat in the LG settings, which basically tells the units to overshoot the setpoint by a few degrees. However with the preheat time before the blow comes on, in cold climates the temp swing in the room can exceed 4F, which higher than desirable, and really the unit should be able to maintain a 2F range.


Python:
{% set last = (as_timestamp(now()) - as_timestamp(states.sensor.ws2900_v2_02_03_indoor_temperature.last_changed))    %}
{% set temp2 = states.climate.living_room_ac.attributes.current_temperature | float %}
{% set temperature = states.climate.living_room_ac.attributes.current_temperature | float %}

{% set setpoint = states.climate.living_room_ac.attributes.temperature | float %}

{% if  (last  < 600)%}
  {% set temperature = states('sensor.ws2900_v2_02_03_indoor_temperature') | float %}
{% endif%}

{% if (not is_state('climate.living_room_ac', 'cool'))  %}

  {{ temperature | int}}

{% else %}
  {% if setpoint  < temperature + 1 %}
    {{ (temperature + 3) | int }}
  {% else %}
    {{ temperature | int}}
  {% endif %}
{% endif%}
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Had no hot water last night. Looked at the data and the water heater last ran 24 hours before. Ohmed out the heater and it was open circuit.

After cursing myself for an hour I was able to rotate the water heater around enough to get to the thermostat.

It isn't documented anywhere, but there is some kind of breaker or resettable fuse integrated. It is a tiny (1mm wide) white bump that slightly pops out. Not sure if the thermostat is junk or not. I reset it, and crudely adjusted the thermostat to nominal temp, but it must have tripped after 90 minutes or so. I am traveling next week, so I just ordered a new thermostat from some aftermarket supplier. US local stock wanted ~100$, but for 35$ I can wait 10 days given the travel.

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Kinda frustrating there isn't any documentation of this feature in any of the manuals either.
 

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