Lack Power & Huge Black Smoke at acceleration, no DTC

[gilee]

Hey guys, been away for so long, missed my sprinter and this forum!
I unplugged the battery for few months, all fluid changed 6 months ago.

Test drove last night (60F), no issue, and test drive today again before inspection (outside 76F), and this problem happens...
Lack of power at start up + huge black smoke

Started the Van with no issue, start up immediately with 1-2 crank, Zero lights on Dash (no Check engine light of course), drive out for a short test drive and realized I have almost NO POWER going uphill.... at first I was thinking it's stuck at 3rd gear or something... once on flat ground, the accelerate seems slow, but as the Van rolls, I "think" the turbo kicks in, as I feel the Van wants to pull forward!! but I realized there is a HUGE BLACK SMOKE behind my Van!

I realized for each time (from the 3 times I see from rear mirror) the Van lags at acceleration then picks up to pull forward, huge black smoke at rear!
Not sure if its me, but I "think" once I turn OFF the AC, the van "feel like" have a little more power... maybe just me.

Providing some background information I think might help troubleshoot the problem

• When Van idling, zero smoke, no smell.
• Just vacuum and fully charged my AC to 1.9lb of r134a this morning before test drive
• replaced original turbo silencer with aluminum one.
• All fluids are changed ~6 months ago
• Still No lights shows up on dash after the ~10mins test drive
• I visually inspect the engine bay, nothing seems out of the ordinary, no leaks or smoke/smell.
• Didn't open engine cover yet to check

Any ideas or suggestions this might happen?
I didn't have this issue before, any thoughts of this will be great!!
As always, Thank you all!!!
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Just a few shots of the conversion....

Start to feel so slow on building this camper conversion this time around, sick of having the Van just sit there on the driveway for ~6months... Over the weekend, I am able to get the Van insured with motorhome insurance, and planned for a emission inspection in CT today before getting it registered....
but this issue happens....

 

[Carminooch615]

What scanner are you using to check codes? This sounds exactly like when my egr failed / was failing. My generic car scanner detected no issues, but when I had a buddy use a more capable sprinter scanner, we were able to see the egr valve was stuck. I’m not diagnosing this as a bad egr valve, but it sounds a whole lot like what I went thru.

On another note, my van sat for 8 months and the van was extremely slow without smoke. My turbo actuator arm was seized, so I disconnected it and jogged it loose, reconnected, and all good. That issue did indeed throw a code though.

Im sure someone else will chime in with more input.

 

[gilee]

What scanner are you using to check codes? This sounds exactly like when my egr failed / was failing. My generic car scanner detected no issues, but when I had a buddy use a more capable sprinter scanner, we were able to see the egr valve was stuck. I’m not diagnosing this as a bad egr valve, but it sounds a whole lot like what I went thru.

On another note, my van sat for 8 months and the van was extremely slow without smoke. My turbo actuator arm was seized, so I disconnected it and jogged it loose, reconnected, and all good. That issue did indeed throw a code though.

Im sure someone else will chime in with more input.

Thanks!
I will connect my MBII Scanner and see if any code was throw. (I was expecting a Check Engine light might lite up) Going out to scan it now. Will update with any code scanned.

 

[45Kevin]

Similar thing happened in a VW TDI I owned.
Turned out one of the hoses to the turbo had come loose and fallen off.

 

[gilee]

Just went out to Scan (icarsoft MBII) the code, and found more problems... I am upset...
Help is needed guys...

This is what happened:

1. Scanned, 3 code - 2243 from CDI common rail diesel injection, P1817-002 regarding reverse light (I was changing bulbs) and 1926 which shouldn't matter.
2. I cleared the code, and start the engine, it starts and died immedately... huh?
   I crank it again, and it starts and died immediately. (both starts within 1-2 cranks)
3. I try it one more time while giving it a little gas, and it roughly starts up, then Check engine light immediately comes on.
4. I turn off the engine and scanned for codes - only 1 code: P2020 from CDI
   I also use ODB mode to scan for check engine light with 1 code: P0088 Fuel Rail System Pressure too high
5. I reset the DTC and all code and start the engine again, it starts right up without dying, idling ok, not rough. I try to move the van on my driveway, and when I give a some gas, engine shutters and died...

What the hell... the van was totally fine few months ago, and was ok last night when I test drove it.
Is it because the Van sat for too long, or its just about time?.... exactly 200K mileage.

ADDED: At being Stalled (engine shuts off) any time, I am not sure if I should drive out for another test drive (to see what the symptoms are), as I worried I might get stranded somewhere.

ADDEDED: I forgot to mention what is P2020 means, then it strikes me. I had this error code since I purchased the Van. I asked about this error code back in March in this post: P0088 DTC - Starting to get worried...
It didn't hit me earlier because the symptoms are totally different. Before I have no black smoke at idling, or black smoke during acceleration. no starting issue, or engine stalling... but now I have them all...

Hopefully the storm won't hit my area tomorrow, otherwise my todo list tomorrow is check all turbo hoses, and cycle through the KEY-ON, to run the in tank fuel pump few times to purge any air in the fuel rail. I will also remove the engine cover to take a look.

This will be me #1 priority to fix, so I can get my Van inspected and registered, so I can start driving it on the road.

 

[Cavah]

Always check for codes first whenever you have issues, No CEL does not mean there are no codes that got tripped. post what year your van is or even better, put it in your info that goes with each post. there are some differences tween 02-03’ and 04-06’ model years, especially with fuel delivery and egr I believe.

 

[gilee]

Always check for codes first whenever you have issues, No CEL does not mean there are no codes that got tripped. post what year your van is or even better, put it in your info that goes with each post. there are some differences tween 02-03’ and 04-06’ model years, especially with fuel delivery and egr I believe.

Thanks. Will update signature on the year.

My Van is 2006 with 201K miles on it. Sat for ~6 months while taking it all apart to paint and convert into a camper.
Currently, the only Code is P2020 - it is regarding fuel rail pressure too low. I had this error code 6 months ago, but no issue on driving, going uphill, and no black smoke.

It is pouring out today, so I will check out those 3 things first thing tomorrow morning
To Check list tomorrow:

1. Remove Engine Cover to inspects injectors
2. Turn Key to ON few times to cycle the in tank fuel pump to purge air in fuel line/rail
3. double check all turbo hose are tightly connected.

Will keep everyone posted. Thanks!

 

[gilee]

Rain stopped, and went out to try couple things.
Now the symtoms seems very consistent: Engine starts and died within 1 second.
Total of 2 error codes now, P2020 and new P2511 (both from CDI)
P2020 - Fuel Rail Pressure too low
P2511 - EGR short circuit to Ground

I recorded 3 videos, attached below.

#1: I turned Key to ON position 6 times, each time waited about 30 second for intank fuel pump to prime.
QUESTION: I don't feel anything touching the bottom of the tank, and I don't hear any sound when I am looking at the fuel tank. Is this normal? maybe pump is not loud enough for me to hear?

#2: Started the Engine, and it died in a second.

#3: Start the engine again and give it little gas, still died in a second.

#4: Plug in scanner, found 2 error code: P2020 and P2511.

#5: Reset all code and start engine again, and it died in a second.

Please advise what I should check/try and look for next.
Greatly appreciated.

 

[gilee]

Rain stopped, and went out to try couple things.
Now the symtoms seems very consistent: Engine starts and died within 1 second.
Total of 2 error codes now, P2020 and new P2511 (both from CDI)
P2020 - Fuel Rail Pressure too low
P2511 - EGR short circuit to Ground

I recorded 3 videos, attached below.

#1: I turned Key to ON position 6 times, each time waited about 30 second for intank fuel pump to prime.
QUESTION: I don't feel anything touching the bottom of the tank, and I don't hear any sound when I am looking at the fuel tank. Is this normal? maybe pump is not loud enough for me to hear?

#2: Started the Engine, and it died in a second.

#3: Start the engine again and give it little gas, still died in a second.

#4: Plug in scanner, found 2 error code: P2020 and P2511.

#5: Reset all code and start engine again, and it died in a second.

Please advise what I should check/try and look for next.
Greatly appreciated.

Just bought a used EGR. Will replace that.

Anything else I should be diagnose?

 

[Carminooch615]

Hoping the EGR takes care of it! It’s sounding like you’re on the right track.

 

[gilee]

Hoping the EGR takes care of it! It’s sounding like you’re on the right track.

Hope so. Finger crossed.
In the mean time, i can only wait for the EGR to deliver.

 

[toomanycircles]

Hope so. Finger crossed.
In the mean time, i can only wait for the EGR to deliver.

Looking forward to hearing results, I am having a similar problem minus the stalling out. Started smoking at idle and lots of black smoke under acceleration and no power. Did you happen to take your EGR out and take a look at it?

 

[gilee]

Looking forward to hearing results, I am having a similar problem minus the stalling out. Started smoking at idle and lots of black smoke under acceleration and no power. Did you happen to take your EGR out and take a look at it?

Bad news, the seller cancelled my order, so I will need to look else where for a good used EGR valve. But I tried removing the EGR today, it is STUCK obviously but before I destroy it by hammering it out, I took the electronic part off, and the mechanical valve definitely are in great shape.
Check the video out, it snap back crisp and loud!

As for the Stepping Motor of the EGR (anyone knows if it is a stepping motor?) As I try to turn it, it is very restricted. it feels like rust or alot of scratching feel. But it looks very clean thou... wonders if it is normal.



I also looked at the wiring harness, It has alot of room for me to move it around....
Before I take it apart to double check if any damaged happened, is there any other method to check first?

For the fuel filter wiring, I added a cover to protect to original harness.

I am starting to think if my harness has any issue, as I don't see my Transmission Module from my ODB scanner anymore.
I remember I see it in my previous scans (6months ago) on my icarsoft MBII scanner.
Is it normal it sometimes doesn't show up? I manually try to access it from my scanner, and it say error.

 

[toomanycircles]

Bad news, the seller cancelled my order, so I will need to look else where for a good used EGR valve. But I tried removing the EGR today, it is STUCK obviously but before I destroy it by hammering it out, I took the electronic part off, and the mechanical valve definitely are in great shape.
Check the video out, it snap back crisp and loud!

As for the Stepping Motor of the EGR (anyone knows if it is a stepping motor?) As I try to turn it, it is very restricted. it feels like rust or alot of scratching feel. But it looks very clean thou... wonders if it is normal.
View attachment 195515View attachment 195516

oof yea im not an expert but from what i've read I don't think its advised to remove the motor from the body. I'm sure someone else will know more than I about this but I don't know if I'd reuse that now. You can get brand new ones from Europarts, Million Mile Sprinter or AutoHauz AZ.