Fuel Filter Change OM642 3.0L 907

bigb

2011 Winnebago Via 25Q on 2010 3500 Tucson, AZ
Looks like hoosierrun is correct, at least on mine. I know I loosened and tightened it with a #30 Torx and I have a #30 Torx in my roadside emergency filter change kit that I made up but when I took a close up it sure looks like a hex. The #30 Torx fit it perfectly. hoosierrun next time you get a chance can you let us know what size the hex wrench is?hex.jpg
 

Sctn

2019 170 4x4 Crew-SMB West
It’s a 5mm hex.

I just completed my fuel filter change. It was pretty simple, I imagine a lot easier due to the fact I removed that filter harness like you mentioned after the fact.
Thanks for the detailed write up
 

bigb

2011 Winnebago Via 25Q on 2010 3500 Tucson, AZ
Thanks, I will throw one in my road kit. I bought a couple of inexpensive sets of allen wrenches so I could keep certain ones with certain things without leaving holes in my sets of good ones.
Did you have to remove the intake hose from the turbo inlet? V-6?
 

Sctn

2019 170 4x4 Crew-SMB West
Thanks, I will throw one in my road kit. I bought a couple of inexpensive sets of allen wrenches so I could keep certain ones with certain things without leaving holes in my sets of good ones.
Did you have to remove the intake hose from the turbo inlet? V-6?
I did not have to remove intake to turbo.
 

keithr

Member
Thanks to everyone who put together this info to show how to replace the fuel filter. I just replaced mine (2020 sprinter) and found the original OEM filter was the same as the one shown in the 9/20/21 post by Pharkas with MB part number 642 090 48 42, WK 820/6. I installed a new one I had ordered from Amazon for $44, see attached link. It looked identical and fit perfectly (I was able to install it without removing the turbo intake hose, and I removed the (3) bolts holding the filter and clamp ring to better access the clamp ring bolt). The local Mercedes parts shop had told me they would need to order the fuel filter and it would cost over $200. After I did the replacement I took to used filter in to show them and it turns out they do stock one and the filter they thought I needed based on VIN number was a different one. They said the actual replacement for mine should be p/n 642 90 64 52, WK 820/21, photo attached. MB cost at dealer is $150. I’ve seen others have used the WK 820/15. I’m not sure the differences. Note - the $44 one from Amazon came with another plastic clip for the side water hose, and the $150 820/21 does not.

I’m interested in anyones comments on paying the premium for the actual MB parts (fuel filter, oil filter, etc) vs the parts from Amazon, Advance Auto, etc that seem identical but don’t have the MB name on it?

680D3801-5FEB-4B55-AB1A-3CB7CF41C215.pngF82A615D-99CB-40FA-A5DC-B60C17B6D567.jpeg
 

bigb

2011 Winnebago Via 25Q on 2010 3500 Tucson, AZ
I’m interested in anyones comments on paying the premium for the actual MB parts (fuel filter, oil filter, etc) vs the parts from Amazon, Advance Auto, etc that seem identical but don’t have the MB name on it?
Ok since you asked, no way will I buy parts that "seem" identical for such an expensive vehicle. Doing the labor saves so much cash I can easily afford the best parts. You don't have to buy them from the dealer either, you can buy OEM supplier parts from a trusted source like IDParts for a lot less and don't have to guess about the quality.idparts.jpg
 

bigb

2011 Winnebago Via 25Q on 2010 3500 Tucson, AZ
I believe there are at least 2 suppliers for MB filters and the only difference is the ones they supply to MB have MB and the MB part number printed on them. If I am wrong I'm sure someone will be along soon to correct that.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Thanks to everyone who put together this info to show how to replace the fuel filter. I just replaced mine (2020 sprinter) and found the original OEM filter was the same as the one shown in the 9/20/21 post by Pharkas with MB part number 642 090 48 42, WK 820/6. I installed a new one I had ordered from Amazon for $44, see attached link. It looked identical and fit perfectly (I was able to install it without removing the turbo intake hose, and I removed the (3) bolts holding the filter and clamp ring to better access the clamp ring bolt). The local Mercedes parts shop had told me they would need to order the fuel filter and it would cost over $200. After I did the replacement I took to used filter in to show them and it turns out they do stock one and the filter they thought I needed based on VIN number was a different one. They said the actual replacement for mine should be p/n 642 90 64 52, WK 820/21, photo attached. MB cost at dealer is $150. I’ve seen others have used the WK 820/15. I’m not sure the differences. Note - the $44 one from Amazon came with another plastic clip for the side water hose, and the $150 820/21 does not.

I’m interested in anyones comments on paying the premium for the actual MB parts (fuel filter, oil filter, etc) vs the parts from Amazon, Advance Auto, etc that seem identical but don’t have the MB name on it?

View attachment 210837View attachment 210838
Keith you invited a comment so here goes>

First before making a few statements I am "the trade so to state", consequently "some folks" on this forum site consider me to be "The frienemy" in their midst !
Yesterday it was a "keyboard warrior" , which is better I suppose than being labeled by a few members as a thief, or even a fleeser of the American public (.love that one !)
To reiterate as I do frequently we auto techs / mechanics and repair shop owners, even franchise dealers, simply sell Parts, Labor and that intrinsic or intangible to many called "doing the knowledge", especially if you are product trained in this case by Bosch .

Now I have absolutely no issue with you, or anyone else for that matter doing a DIY job, and buying in the aftermarket. Let's face it everyone wants to save money even me.

So playing the devil's' advocate here are some statements or questions.
1) You have installed a new filter you bought online and fitted it. Seemingly a successful job. money saved
Question :- How do you know it's good to spec and flowing correctly ?".

2) As a right of DIY passage with fuel filters you bust off that little Tee piece which is part of the leak off rail. (read expensive parts to replace)
Now some forum warriors proudly replace it with a brass tee as basically a field repair. I as "trade professional I won't do that if one gets busted off.
There is a specific reason why .
Question :- what does that expensive simple looking tee piece do or what is its function and why will I only replace the whole Kahuna ?

3) MB recommends changing the fuel filter @ 20,000 mile intervals.
At an A service I or my staff quickly determine the filter should be changed at 10,000.
Disputing that you doggedly follow the MB directive because its written, and what does this dumb grease monkey know, other than trying to sell an expensive filter @ $120
Question:- At an A service how did I quickly determine you need a new filter ?

4) Equally you do your own servicing, but the van just isn't performing right, and there are no codes in the ECM .
You reluctantly take it to a shop like mine, hoping its not a wallet flush .
I state that the aftermarket filter you installed is not flowing right.
Question:- Again How did i determine that?

5) I might on the way of all this diagnosis suggest a new fuel pump @ $450 plus labor .
You changed the fuel filter hoping to fix a drivability problem and made it worse .
Mr Jones the customer in this situation concludes I am a thief and leaves.
Question:- How did I determine fairly quickly that the customer needed an in tank pump and a genuine fuel filter?

All food for thought.
Dennis :devilish:
 
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keithr

Member
Good points Dennis.
I wish I had a way to see the fuel flow and pressure at the filter so I could tell if it needed replacement.
Hopefully I don’t regret trying to save a few bucks but I figured worse case I could buy the MB one and install it if I have problems….so far so good but time will tell.
 

ElMartillo

I don’t just buy it and bolt it. I build it.
Can anyone confirm this is the correct type of fuel filter for my ‘22 642?

A4056FA7-B363-4DA5-A480-51679A1C2984.jpeg
 

Happy29

2020 2500 OM642 4x2 170HR
its the right ‘type’ but there are several configurations in the wild.

Mine does not have the attached water drain hose. Rather there is a nipple on the filter for the existing to attach. Not saying it won’t work but it’s different than my OM642 came with from factory.

best to remove the existing to verify part number.
 

ElMartillo

I don’t just buy it and bolt it. I build it.
First off, thank you Pharkas for this writeup. Not the first time I have found your posts helpful.??

Having just reached 10K miles on my ‘22 Cargo V6, with my 2nd oil/filter change and tire rotation, it’s time to replace the fuel filter.

I decided to go as far into this procedure to be able to see the part numbers on my existing original from-the-factory fuel filter. I figured it would be good practice as well. Only took about 15 minutes.

Turns out I have the WK 820/6 filter, MB part # 642 090 48 52.

Mann filter #820/6 supercedes to 820/15. According to the info I have found, the “correct” Mann part# for my vehicle/year is 820/14.

/15 currently costs about $13 more than /14.

Though the photos of each are nearly identical, I have orderd both to see if there are any differences, dimensionally or otherwise. Will return the one I don’t use.

Also, Pharkas’ tips were very helpful. Here’s one I’d like to contribute: I tied off the turbo intake tube with some zip ties for easier access to the rearmost clamp bracket mounting bolt. See photo.

Cheers!

5501411C-0F7A-4400-B406-8CCDB63433FB.jpegB28FB2B6-C729-4482-8814-04D47870539D.jpeg264088E2-C79B-44B7-8017-3E5A5B06084A.jpeg72033D5B-0091-4B4D-B660-8EFB2454FC01.jpeg
 

ElMartillo

I don’t just buy it and bolt it. I build it.
Filter replacement complete. After inspecting the new filters (both MANN brand; 820/14 & 820/15) I decided to use the /14. No discernable difference and now I have a replacement clip for the water hose connection.

Note: an 8mm socket fit the star bolts perfectly.

Cheers!

Czech made, just like the OEM:
F3F39692-4E2D-4A06-A218-2F24D525C85E.jpeg

Tools used:
0F33EDA3-E70F-4006-9256-8B2497942670.jpeg

Leftover water line clip, in protective cover included with 820/14:
8298A52E-F578-4F10-9BEF-A76C2A1A4488.jpeg
 

G Merryweather

New member
I appreciate so much the information I got in this thread, in this forum, and on YouTube where folks have posted.

I'm in the midst of a fuel pump replacement due to some unfortunate circumstances, but I can tell you the easiest way to empty a fuel tank without dropping the tank is to disconnect the rubber hose between the fill area and the anti-siphon device, and then raise the back end of your van with a forklift to help get all of that fuel out.

My question is about the clamps on the fuel lines: is it possible to reuse them if you have the Clic-R tool? Or is it just a much better idea to use new clamps?

2021 Sprinter Crew
4X4
V6 3.0 L
 

mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
Yes. The clic-r clamps are reusable.

There was a note in earlier versions of tech data that said not to reuse, but that was for earlier clamp designs.
 

Happy29

2020 2500 OM642 4x2 170HR
I noticed a touch more pep after fuel filter change right at 20k miles. It will be interesting if mileage changes…
 

sysygy9

Member
A quick question - if I was to fit a 30 micron prefilter in front of the factor fuel 2(?) micron filter to catch the bigger crap and water before it gets to the main factory filter, where would be the easiest place to tap into the fuel lines?
 

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