Original battery dying or a charging problem?

Another thought on the battery cable - my 2500 just recently started having problems. It would start fine, run and as soon as I shut it off, all battery power would die - instantly. Wouldn't start, no LED indications on the dash, no power what so ever. Checking the cables - all looked good. As soon as I jiggled the ground cable everything came back on line.
I contacted my local dealer, as I was unable to find replacement aftermarket cables in my area. $18.00 for the little 6" ground cable. I also ordered the Pos. cable and Mercedes sent me a 6m length of 4-0 battery cable with a fancy mercedes star on the bag but no ends on the cable ($66.00). Needless to say they got to keep that cable. Replacing the ground cable seems to have solved the intermittent power issue.
Examining the old gnd cable showed a lot of corrosion inside the crimp that wasn't readily visible while it was on the battery.
 

ebsprintin

surviving member
About the alternator/battery cable. What is the gauge of the cable and the gauge of the fusible link? Anyone have a source on this gauge of fusible wire?

eb
 

piper1

Resident Oil Nerd.
Sent you a PM eb.
 

PLUMMER

New member
Bump for this old thread. Did anyone find a alternate source for the cable with the inline fuse? Does the fuse go bad or is it just the cable connections. I have just pulled on and slightly cleaned mine up. It all of a sudden works fine. I didn't expect that, but a few days later and a heavvy rain and its bad again. A wiggle and its ok. I called the Mercedes dealer and was quoted 241.00 . I have to go in to verify the part as they have 2 different #'s. Local dodge dealer told me I needed a whole host of other electrical parts not including or any mention of this cable. However my symptoms are exactly as described here and test similar on the Fluke 88. Under load is when I see all kinds of fluctuations. I did apply an electrical grease with heat gun for penetration and it is working good now. A/C-headlights-radio work with just .2v drop. I am getting some kind of ghost draw. The Frieghtliner dealer said it would erase/solve my glow plug&module issue as well. Thanks
 

kimevans

New member
I have the 2007 Sprinter 2500 and recently came to the conclusion that the bad positive cable is one of my problems and will replace this weak. Just recently replaced the alternator and glow plug modulator. Still have a limp at 3000 rpm, can let off the fuel and take off again. I can unplug the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR and the van will not limp, runs to 3800 rpm and then shifts, after a few miles check engine light comes on for MASS AIR FLOW. Could this positive cable be the culprit, obviously not a strong signal to the alternator, toasted it, new battery, already gone bad, extremely cold weather. I think a cell is dead, check with meter. I'm wondering if the new battery cable and another new battery might get a constant power flow to everything solve the limp mode? Do I need to clear all the codes? Can not see any malfunctions on dash but heard if you touch the ground to the positive after battery is unhooked it will clear cods. I have a code reader but the dealer sees more codes than me. Also think that possible need to reprogram the ECU as there was a recall because of the EGR that possibly when they said they did flash it, it didn't flash properly because of the bad positive cable. Any suggestions?
 

68protour

07 D 144 high rebadged MB
Just found this from a help site on the internet…


I have a 2007 Dodge Sprinter and the charging system is not charging my battery properly. It’s charging at approx 13.2 volts, on the low side. When any accessories are turned on the voltage drops to 12.8 and sometimes less. Any ideas what’s happening?
Answer
The most likely cause for this concern is the battery cable that runs from the positive battery post to the starter and another leg that goes from the battery to the alternator. Its basically a "Y" shaped battery cable that braches off to both items. The leg going to the starter has a 300 amp fusible link heat shrinked to the cable. The problem we have found is high resistance at the link causing the wiring to become discoloured under the heat shrink. This will most likely be your problem. I have been witness to about half a dozen of these so far. The repair is to replace the positive cable assembly from your local Dodge Sprinter dealer.
K50426561
Vehicle Issue Intermittent no start due to low battery voltage/discharged battery.;1. Intermittent low battery voltage/discharged battery, even after driving for some time. 2. Alternator output, when measured at the alternator is correct. 3. Alternator output, when measured at the battery may be below normal.
System or Component Starting Issues;Customer Concern (No DTCs);Group 08 - Electrical,Charging System,Starting System
Recommendation Possible cause may be high resistance in the cable from the starter motor to the battery, caused by a loose crimp at the 300 Amp fusible link. Perform a voltage drop test over the cable from the starter to the battery while at the same time doing a â??wiggleâ?? test on the cable at the fusible link. If corrosion is present and/or the cable does not pass the voltage drop test, replace the cable.
Modification Date 05/01/08 12:00 PM
My 2007 suffered from voltage drop from starter to battery leg of that "Y" cable or as I call it the "WHY the HELL did they crimp two cables together" cable.
My solution was to remove that leg from the crimp and make a separate new cable to go from Starter post to Battery.
I used "Tinned" marine heavy cable and now get 14.2 at battery. Murphy's Law tells me now the Alternator to Starter leg with link will good bad someday.
Side note the new cable from Dodge was going to be $105 (68087502AA) so I'm thinking of buying a spare for the road.
 

IslandGuy

New member
My 2007 suffered from voltage drop from starter to battery leg of that "Y" cable or as I call it the "WHY the HELL did they crimp two cables together" cable.
My solution was to remove that leg from the crimp and make a separate new cable to go from Starter post to Battery.
I used "Tinned" marine heavy cable and now get 14.2 at battery. Murphy's Law tells me now the Alternator to Starter leg with link will good bad someday.
Side note the new cable from Dodge was going to be $105 (68087502AA) so I'm thinking of buying a spare for the road.
You can do better searching online for that part....I purchased one here from Berry for $80 delivered.
http://www.sprinterparts.net/dodge-sprinter-parts.html
 

donblume

New member
The battery should be around 12.7/12.8 in the morning, assuming you don't have 'phantom' draws other than the vehicle system.
I'm back with a Sprinter again after a 3 year absence. I've read this entire thread and have a question. I bought a 2012/2011 chassis, Winnebago View in service for two years. My chassis battery after a full charge by high tech multi-stage charger only reads 12.49v. Am I on the horizon for replacement soon? I am planning a Yellowstone trip in June 2014 and will not want to try to find a replacement up there.

Thanx Don
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
I'm back with a Sprinter again after a 3 year absence. I've read this entire thread and have a question. I bought a 2012/2011 chassis, Winnebago View in service for two years. My chassis battery after a full charge by high tech multi-stage charger only reads 12.49v. Am I on the horizon for replacement soon? I am planning a Yellowstone trip in June 2014 and will not want to try to find a replacement up there.

Thanx Don
Ooops... those numbers I mentioned are @25C... there is a drop in voltage as the battery temperature drops. Can we assume the current battery is below 25C, even for Mesa? If not, then others can use the following information, and you may need to consider your batteries are now in a 'weakened' state.

See here for details:
http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/graphs.asp

The lower left graph is Capacity vs. Temperature... Resting V's will exhibit/represent the lower capacity.
 
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donblume

New member
Orion,

My Sprinter battery is original from Dec. 2012 and has not failed me yet. It is a vented wet cell, not an AGM battery. The temperature at test was between 60 and 70 degr. F. Do you still think the same? Also, I have room for a 2nd battery under the hood do you have any info on adding a 2nd batt?

I remember you have been on the Forum for a long time and have been very helpful to many others.
Thanx Don Blume
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Orion,

My Sprinter battery is original from Dec. 2012 and has not failed me yet. It is a vented wet cell, not an AGM battery. The temperature at test was between 60 and 70 degr. F. Do you still think the same? Also, I have room for a 2nd battery under the hood do you have any info on adding a 2nd batt?

I remember you have been on the Forum for a long time and have been very helpful to many others.
Thanx Don Blume
I suspect the battery is weakened from 'abuse'. It may have been as simple as being slowly discharged while sitting for long period(s), and sulphation of the plates has reared it's ugly head. Best to have a proper battery test done, and dead or weakened, replace with a quality oem-like one.
 

donblume

New member
Do you know of a source for a reasonable cost for replacement with OEM and about how much? I was thinking of checking NAPA as they gave me a great price on 6 Golf Cart batteries.

Thanks again.

Don
 

surlyoldbill

New member
Do NOT get a Bosch battery, they are crap. I went through 3 on warranty replacement, one only lasted a month. Interstate makes good batteries. No need to get "OEM", just the right fitment code for your van.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
I'm back with a Sprinter again after a 3 year absence. I've read this entire thread and have a question. I bought a 2012/2011 chassis, Winnebago View in service for two years. My chassis battery after a full charge by high tech multi-stage charger only reads 12.49v. Am I on the horizon for replacement soon? I am planning a Yellowstone trip in June 2014 and will not want to try to find a replacement up there.

Thanx Don
Guys
This cable is my opinion a source of lots of threshold voltage problems and DPF/DEF issues.
Least that's from where I am sitting in my shop office!

I have seen no fewer than 5 Sprinters this month (years 2007 to 2011) ALL with alternator charge issues that in every case was traced back to that cable and the in line fusible link.

The cable as posted previously is cheaper from the Mopar system list is $86. Its the same even for the MB 2011 model version. MB parts system wants $250ish for the same part.

This is not to be taken lightly, a new 200 Amp alternator is about $600 retail and if you have a twin A/C set up there is about 4.5 hours of labor to R'n R it, so its worth taking some care about "watts go'n on"! (or Amp 'n Volts in this case).:rolleyes:

Now threshold voltages are important because I have seen alot of vehicles roll through the shop with DPF and DEF issues all with limp or reduced power modes. Get the voltage up to at least 13.98v and codes will clear and stay out, with a reduction to 12.95 and the supply through a defective cable won't balance the consumption.

The "penny drop for me" didn't drop until yesterday when I cleared out multiple codes on a 2010 model with cable/charging issues. Lurking as a soft code was cat regeneration!
Blasted voltage problems!

Equally I have a lady owner up in the mountains that keeps threatening to bring in her 2008 model in with DPF issues. I asked her if she had changed her alternator recently--The answer came back yes by a local shop!
I am sure if I get to look at that cable it will be burnt and the insulation melted off!

Check yours because if it degenerates sufficently you might get a short down and your alternator will be sweating bullets !
A cable like that will have lot of smoke built into it--Don't let the smoke out! :rolleyes:
More on this later.
Dennis
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
I paid $106.60 at MB last week. Dodge was twice that...for older REV.

Sent from my GT-I9100M using Tapatalk
 

Mrdi

New member
I paid $106.60 at MB last week. Dodge was twice that...for older REV.

Sent from my GT-I9100M using Tapatalk
Orion
Do you have a part number?
MB#
Dodge#
Thanks
Mrdi

Do we have a Stiky for the DIY replacement of this part
 
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Tuck5000

2008 2500 170
So is this a updated part? or is this going to be a common replacement every few years? Whats the average lifespan of the cable? I have a 08 with 85000miles, still running the original battery and cable. On a cold start the Esp, Anti Skid, ABS light stay on for a few seconds then clear, I think I have read due to low voltage. I have been meaning to replace the battery, should I just replace the cable at the same time? Anyone have the newest Dodge Part#?
 

IslandGuy

New member
I just purchased a starter/alternator/batt cable from Berry Chrysler online....came in a MB box. $83 delivered.
 

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