Hello again,

I am looking for advice on whether or not to change my transmission fluid on my 2003 Dodge Sprinter.

The fluid was last changed at 301,000 miles, and I am currently at 408,854 miles. The fluid has a darker brownish color indicating that it needs to be changed, but I keep running into information about not changing.

From what I've gathered, if you haven't been regularly changing the transmission fluid on a high mile engine, changing the fluid can cause more harm than good. I believe this is due to suddenly removing the old transmission oil that has been lubricating old parts?

My question is:

At my mileage, will changing the transmission fluid cause more harm than good?

The harm being sudden "rumble strip", transmission problems leading to replacement, trouble accelerating up hills, etc.

Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance ?
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
Personally id change it all complete drain and refill. Your not going to destroy a transmission with clean fluid and a new filter. If you put it all back together and it does have an issue it was going to leave you stuck somewhere in the near future regardless. Best to deal with it in your driveway vs out on the road IMO.
 

Alphacarina

2006 Itasca Navion 23H
I am looking for advice on whether or not to change my transmission fluid on my 2003 Dodge Sprinter.

The fluid was last changed at 301,000 miles, and I am currently at 408,854 miles. The fluid has a darker brownish color indicating that it needs to be changed, but I keep running into information about not changing.
It probably doesn't smell all that great either. I would change it all. Driving with old 100K fluid in there is very bad. Changing half of it is only half as bad, IMO. If it's the original tranny and it's still in there at 400K with no better maintenance than it's had, it's a miracle, also IMO

I changed every fluid in my 2006 motor home with only 20K on it when I bought it in 2019 - Just because every fluid in it was already 13 years old

Don
 

NGoldsmith

New member
I have the same question. the dealer told me it might start slipping if I change the fluid? I only have 133k on and am probobly going to take the chance and change it.
 
So, my experience with changing high mileage transmission fluid....

Just changed transmission fluid, filter and electrical plug on 2006 Sprinter. mileage on fluid was just under 200,000 miles. Prior to change there were no issues with the transmission, shifted well, no RSN or slippage. Also, did not find metal flakes in the oil pan. Shortly after the fluid change it started to leak (slowly), then became more evident. Cleaned the underside and located the leak from bellhousing. Removed the transmission and replaced the front seal ($10 Part). The front bushing looked like new and no marks or grooves on the torque converter. Leak has stopped and shifting is as expected. Well, actually better than expected for 200,000 miles...

Also have a 1997 E300D with the same transmission 722.6. Original fluid changed at 261,000 miles (please don't judge me here). Transmission was slow to respond. Back out of parking spot then shift to Drive and wait to move.. So, changed the fluid (sludge) and shifting is back to normal. Transmission now has 377,242 miles and no leaks and shifts perfectly.

As far as transmission slipping after an oil change.. The way it was explained to me is that this mindset is from the older transmission design that controlled shifting by hydraulic pressure in the transmission. Leaking pistons, etc caused incomplete shifts or engagement, slippage. The 722.6 transmission is electronically controlled, so the shifting is by rpm and other parameters, and the shifts are controlled by electronic solenoid, so leaking pistons are not an issue with incomplete shift or slippage. This may or may not be correct information, it's just the information I've been told.
 

220629

Well-known member
It may be an old wives tale, but I have read quite a few reports where a full change out of very/too old transmission fluid seemed to create problems. Coincidence? :idunno: I have no data. I see no downside to doing a pan drain and refill first as Cheyenne mentioned above. The partial refill will help to replenish additives. Refill with Valvoline Maxlife ATF to save a few pennies on the interim 1/2 fluid change. Drive a few hundred or maybe 500 miles and then do a full TC/pan drain and filter service. Refill with your choice of ATF. (Many Sprinter owners use Valvoline Maxlife.)

FWIW Synthetic ATF III is spec'd in my 2004 operator manual so there is precedent for using other fluid.
2004ManualOilSpec01.jpg

vic
 

jrod5150

Well-known member
It may be an old wives tale, but I have read quite a few reports where a full change out of very/too old transmission fluid seemed to create problems. Coincidence? :idunno: I have no data. I see no downside to doing a pan drain and refill first as Cheyenne mentioned above. The partial refill will help to replenish additives. Refill with Valvoline Maxlife ATF to save a few pennies on the interim 1/2 fluid change. Drive a few hundred or maybe 500 miles and then do a full TC/pan drain and filter service. Refill with your choice of ATF. (Many Sprinter owners use Valvoline Maxlife.)

FWIW Synthetic ATF III is spec'd in my 2004 operator manual so there is precedent for using other fluid.
View attachment 189437

vic
Doesn't cause problems just makes them shine :) Old fluid has all kinds of clutch friction material in it so a weak transmission pump can move this tainted fluid around. Remove the dirty thicker than normal viscosity fluid from transmission replace nasty clogged filter (Also helping to keep the pressures up) put nice clean fluid in, now the pump cant move it especially when the fluid warms up because its too thin. Eventually the weak pump/dirty fluid will fail so either way it needs to be addressed. The dirty contaminated fluid and clogged filter are the culprits of causing the transmission pump wear...

For a transmission of this build era the 722 is great. yes its a weaker link than the engine but in vehicles known for having somewhat bulletproof engines like GM LS Series, BMW inline 6 and say Hondas across the board to name a few..they all share a common trend, a transmission that wont outlive the engine
 
Last edited:

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
My reading about a full change after long service interval is that the bulk addition of additives has the potential to quickly wash the accumulation of debris from the clutches, etc and foul the valve body.
Doing a couple of partial (pan-only) changes stretches out this cleaning, removing accumulated debris more slowly. So pan-only & filter now, then a full pan, TC & filter in 5,000 miles.

Of the pump is worn out you’ll run out of pressure.. if clutches are near their end they’ll slip.. new fluid may uncover these sorts of weaknesses, but they’ll strike eventually in any case. Do you really want a trip interrupted when they decide to let go?

-dave
 

220629

Well-known member
To keep this in perspective.

...

The fluid was last changed at 301,000 miles, and I am currently at 408,854 miles. The fluid has a darker brownish color indicating that it needs to be changed, but I keep running into information about not changing.
...
It's only been a little over 100,000 miles. Per the MB operator manual the filter was designed for one change and done. In my experience during the the Doktor A DARF trial drains the fluid loses the red color fairly quickly. A loss of red color is not a reason to change the fluid, but service miles is a very good reason.

My 2006 service manual has ONCE ONLY at 80,000 miles.
To be clear, I don't recommend that once only OCI. A 40 - 60K mile OCI is more realistic.

2006ManualOilSpec01.jpg

It's probably fine just to do a complete change. A 100K transmission fluid change interval isn't the end of the world.

vic
 

Top Bottom