Too much oil?? New Sprinter = no engine oil dipstick

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Re: Too much oil??

They still had them in 2018. The new model is when the change took place.
I have to say...….I am an inveterate dipstick user. But the electronic check is actually a good thing. For one thing, it will actually tell you if you need one quart or two. And when it holds 13 quarts, I have no problem waiting until it will take a full quart. My Subaru holds 4, and I add it by the half pint.
Having a dipstick or electronic gauge and knowing how to use or read them correctly is important.

If the OP didn't read his Owners Manual either method will fail.
 

elemental

Wherever you go, there you are.
Re: Too much oil??

Because vehicle technology has advanced, and to point where built in electronics are more accurate, reliable, preemptive and convenient. :thumbup:
Except when they aren't accurate and reliable... As of last Tue. at 3:00 pm I have a 2010 MINI with no compression on 3 cylinders, marginal on 1, lots of scoring on the walls [essentially a total loss]. Why? No visual temperature gauge, and sensors/electronics that indicated I could continue my journey down the highway under reduced power after all the coolant (unknown to me) drained out when a lower coolant hose popped off (due to a hose clamp not being replaced after servicing). Rarely-seen icons that pop up on a display and require referencing the vehicle operator's manual to interpret while driving are not convenient, either.

Having two different (independent) modes of sensing vital information is often useful in complex systems. Boeing might be able to weigh in on this if they weren't so busy trying to recover from the 737 MAX debacle.
 
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elemental

Wherever you go, there you are.
Re: Too much oil??

Please don't quote me, and then make a disjointed argument.
My apologies.

I didn't think my argument was disjointed:
(Definition of disjoint (Entry 1 of 2)
1 obsolete : DISJOINTED sense 1a
2 : having no elements in common
disjoint mathematical sets

You made what appeared to me to be a general claim about the advancement of vehicle technology ("built-in electronics are more accurate, reliable, preemptive and convenient.") I didn't interpret your claim as being limited to only those sensors monitoring oil levels, and I thought that my recent experience demonstrated weaknesses in relying only on built-in electronics and foregoing other modes of measurement in important automotive systems, which seemed to me to be elements in common with your statement.

I meant no attack upon you personally; this is a subject that I find incredibly interesting both personally and professionally. Drawing examples from diverse areas (automotive technology and airplane flight safety systems) is often useful when trying to establish a more generalized understanding of a principle - hence why I included the 737 MAX statement.
 

Goran

Member
Ok so he just sent me this picture. He pulled out exactly what he out in and now the on board thing is showing his oil really low. He didn't pull out more than he put in. It seems strange. A quarter of a quart tells him too much oil and when he takes it out his on board shows low levels. It's not saying he needs oil it just shows there isn't much. Barely over the min. Here is a picture. Any help is appreciated because he's asking me because he's old and not t3ch savy. So I don't know what to tell him. The first picture is when he first starts driving and the second is after 10 minute.
 

Attachments

aviatordoc

Active member
Well, did my first oil change DIY today. We had 52F and thought better get it done. Next two weeks of rain and cold temps. Van has just over 4K since new.
Very easy to do and cannot imagine why dealerships price it so high.
Since there is no dipstick, I was careful and added all of 12Q and plan on topping it off tomorrow after I drive it a few miles. Have to rely on the display.
 

Goran

Member
Well never mind. He figured out the problem and we'll chock this up to him being old, and a complete dumbass that wasted my time and people that answered. The first question was ok but the problem he has now of it showing him he's on empty is because the dumbass forgot to put the cap back on where the dipstick goes and he lost oil that way. He got lucky and it didn't spray all over. Just a little bit around that area.
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Well never mind. He figured out the problem and we'll chock this up to him being old, and a complete dumbass that wasted my time and people that answered. The first question was ok but the problem he has now of it showing him he's on empty is because the dumbass forgot to put the cap back on where the dipstick goes and he lost oil that way. He got lucky and it didn't spray all over. Just a little bit around that area.
Be kind to your 'friend'. :hugs:
 

Goran

Member
Be kind to your 'friend'. :hugs:
I am. I like the guy. He's old so I try to help him out but he had me worried that my sprinter might have the same problem because mine shows a lot less while driving than it does sitting. Just glad it wasn't a big problem that would have cost him. The repair probably covered by warranty but not having a car and not working a week is a couple of grand out of his pocket. All is well that ends well.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Over in the T1N forum user Nautamaran has developed a tool that lets us view T1N van vital data in real time. One of the data points is the oil level in the pan.

It is normal for the oil to drop a bit once the engine starts. A significant amount of oil will accumulate in the upper bearing passages, bearings, time chain, and head. Which drops the level initially upon a cold start. As the oil in the sump warms up, the level will rise a bit.
 

bigrich406

New member
Well, did my first oil change DIY today. We had 52F and thought better get it done. Next two weeks of rain and cold temps. Van has just over 4K since new.
Very easy to do and cannot imagine why dealerships price it so high.
Since there is no dipstick, I was careful and added all of 12Q and plan on topping it off tomorrow after I drive it a few miles. Have to rely on the display.
If you did not run your van on Diesel break-in oil for the first 1,000 miles you should drain out whatever you put in it and do so before it is too late. But before you drain it, put in some Amsoil or other quality engine oil flush and drive it around. Then drain and put in the break-in oil. You need your rings and cylinders to wear in together and the OEM oil and other synthetic non-break-in oils are so slick they prevent a proper break-in. The result is you get fuel blowing by the rings into the crankcase oil and all kinds of badness happens from there - oil sludge. Since your van already has 4k miles, some of the damage has been done but at least you didn't wait until 20k miles like many owners do. You are smart to not follow the absurd 20k miles oil change interval. 5k is fine, but replace the filter every 2.5k. After the break-in with Driven DBR Conventional 15w/40 Diesel Break-in oil, I would use Amsoil Dominator 20w/50 competition diesel oil with boosted zinc (the zinc helps protect the timing chain).
 
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Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Jesus, don't use that in a dpf equipped diesel! These arent some 60 year old engine design with crap tolerances that needs a special break in! Even the piston bores have a special coating. Follow the owners manual...
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
If you did not run your van on Diesel break-in oil for the first 1,000 miles you should drain out whatever you put in it and do so before it is too late. But before you drain it, put in some Amsoil or other quality engine oil flush and drive it around. Then drain and put in the break-in oil. You need your rings and cylinders to wear in together and the OEM oil and other synthetic non-break-in oils are so slick they prevent a proper break-in. The result is you get fuel blowing by the rings into the crankcase oil and all kinds of badness happens from there - oil sludge. Since your van already has 4k miles, some of the damage has been done but at least you didn't wait until 20k miles like many owners do. You are smart to not follow the absurd 20k miles oil change interval. 5k is fine, but replace the filter every 2.5k. After the break-in with Driven DBR Conventional 15w/40 Diesel Break-in oil, I would use Amsoil Dominator 20w/50 competition diesel oil with boosted zinc (the zinc helps protect the timing chain).
:wtf:
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
If you did not run your van on Diesel break-in oil for the first 1,000 miles you should drain out whatever you put in it and do so before it is too late. But before you drain it, put in some Amsoil or other quality engine oil flush and drive it around. Then drain and put in the break-in oil. You need your rings and cylinders to wear in together and the OEM oil and other synthetic non-break-in oils are so slick they prevent a proper break-in. The result is you get fuel blowing by the rings into the crankcase oil and all kinds of badness happens from there - oil sludge. Since your van already has 4k miles, some of the damage has been done but at least you didn't wait until 20k miles like many owners do. You are smart to not follow the absurd 20k miles oil change interval. 5k is fine, but replace the filter every 2.5k. After the break-in with Driven DBR Conventional 15w/40 Diesel Break-in oil, I would use Amsoil Dominator 20w/50 competition diesel oil with boosted zinc (the zinc helps protect the timing chain).
OMG!!! Sounds like you're still living with the Flintstone's!

Factory fill oil is good for 20,000 miles. Follow MB's recommendation or you could void your warranty.

Keith.
 

aviatordoc

Active member
If you did not run your van on Diesel break-in oil for the first 1,000 miles you should drain out whatever you put in it and do so before it is too late. But before you drain it, put in some Amsoil or other quality engine oil flush and drive it around. Then drain and put in the break-in oil. You need your rings and cylinders to wear in together and the OEM oil and other synthetic non-break-in oils are so slick they prevent a proper break-in. The result is you get fuel blowing by the rings into the crankcase oil and all kinds of badness happens from there - oil sludge. Since your van already has 4k miles, some of the damage has been done but at least you didn't wait until 20k miles like many owners do. You are smart to not follow the absurd 20k miles oil change interval. 5k is fine, but replace the filter every 2.5k. After the break-in with Driven DBR Conventional 15w/40 Diesel Break-in oil, I would use Amsoil Dominator 20w/50 competition diesel oil with boosted zinc (the zinc helps protect the timing chain).
Did you even read my short post?
I changed it at 4K which is more than adequate for any run in.
I fly and am more than familiar with engine run ins. My comment was more about the lack of a dipstick and the ease of changing oil in this truck.
But do appreciate your thoughts.
 

bigrich406

New member
Did you even read my short post?
I changed it at 4K which is more than adequate for any run in.
I fly and am more than familiar with engine run ins. My comment was more about the lack of a dipstick and the ease of changing oil in this truck.
But do appreciate your thoughts.
You are welcome. I have worked on cars for 40 years. Break-in using a proper break-in oil on a diesel is a real thing and so is blow-by. If you still have the oil you removed, send it out for analysis to see how much fuel and sludge is in it. There should be a lot. Sludge is the enemy of any diesel engine and you will get lots of it if your engine is not broken in using a proper oil. For the long-term oil, look in your MB owner's manual for the detailed spec (not the viscocity) of the recommended oil. Good luck finding it on the MB oil sold at the dealership for your van. Your warranty cannot be invalidated if you don't use MB oil but it is interesting that you won't find the spec from the owner's manual on the MB oil bottle. You will find it on the Amsoil bottle. If you take no other advice, take the diesel breaking-in oil advice. Forget the skeptics who comment about me living in the Flintstone age etc. If you don't believe me about the break-in oil and sludge, read this from another mechanic: https://www.facebook.com/LinosAutoR...ound-so-farit-sums-everythin/785510888253257/

I also recommend a catch can kit be installed to capture the oil mist. If you are not sure what I mean I can provide more details.
 

bigrich406

New member

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