Shortening an S2 D2L Espar Heater Harness - Good or Bad idea?

[H.Mont]

Hi all -

Has anyone shortened their Espar harness? I just installed my S2 D2L Espar heater and two of the harness runs are much longer than needed. The run down to the fuel pump and the main electrical run to my fuse block is much too long. I am not sure if it would be ok to cut these two runs shorter. My harness came with all ends attached, so I would be cutting and splicing the ends back onto the wires. Any ideas if this is ok to do? Has anyone done this, or maybe it is not necessary and leaving the wire coiled up next to the heater is ok?

Looking forward to hearing what people think.
Thanks -
Hugh

 

[ddunaway]

Mine came completely unassembled with German instructions....fun!

Might be less trouble to just coil them. I am sure you could shorten them though.

 

[H.Mont]

Mine came completely unassembled with German instructions....fun!

Might be less trouble to just coil them. I am sure you could shorten them though.

Thanks for the reply. Your build thread has provided me with lots of inspiration. Thanks for putting it out there. Did a similar thing with my fuse holder below the MB fuse holders in the driver seat. Great idea!

If at all interested I'd love to meet up with some of the Seattle DIYers. I am just starting and have put a thread out there with my electrical. Getting LOTS of advice and creating more questions maybe than answers.

Hugh

 

[Midwestdrifter]

If you have space to coil the harness out of the way, just do that. If you don't quality butt crimp connectors are fine. If they are outside/under the van, they need to be adhesive lines heatshrink type.

 

[wankel7]

I shortened and removed the unused wires.

 

[220629]

...

Looking forward to hearing what people think.
Thanks -
Hugh

Since you are looking forward to it...

As MWD said, I think using good quality crimp connectors would be a reasonable method. I would do any splicing needed up inside the vehicle. Why take a chance on outside corrosion?

vic

 

[OrioN]

Since you are looking forward to it...

As MWD said, I think using good quality crimp connectors would be a reasonable method. I would do any splicing needed up inside the vehicle. Why take a chance on outside corrosion?

vic

Yes.... quality crimps, and definitely not made with needle-nose pliers, which cost me 1 hr worth of a $90 labour rate at Thermoking for troubleshooting.

 

[mikecol]

I used the full length and wired to my Blue Sea 12 cir panel. No need for the junk fuse setup they provide. Just coiled the excess; no need/advantage cutting off excess. Put mine in a week ago and fired up on 2nd try. Works perfect !! Used three leftover van 10mm threaded holes to mount fuel pump and secure the hose (encased in split loom).

 

[erik.wahlstrom]

@H.Mont Did you shorten the power branch of the harness? I'm really tight on space and would love to do this. How did you join the Blue/BlueBlack wires?

 

[H.Mont]

@H.Mont Did you shorten the power branch of the harness? I'm really tight on space and would love to do this. How did you join the Blue/BlueBlack wires?

I ended up coiling the extra and leaving it under the seat away from the heater. Next time I have to pull the seat, I may shorten them now that I have re-read the other responses. It sounds fine to do so. It has been a year since I installed the unit so I am not sure about the Blue/blueblack wire. Sorry.