Layout plan.

[GeorgeRa]

I REALLY love the SS fresh and gray water tanks you had made for your conversion. Any chance you could share the drawings for these tanks?

Thanks so much,

David

The grey water tank with the Isotemp marine water heater are mounted on one mount under the driver side. The fresh water tank is mounted under the sliding door, it will not fit if you have the large DPF tank in this location. I followed Dave Orton with my stainless-steel tanks choice and would repeat.

If you are planning to build a 4-season van with hydronic system you could ask your fabricator to weld in a ¼” SS pipe through the lower side of the tank to run glycol through it. I have hot hydronic rubber hoses contacting the tank, good enough fro me but a SS-pipe would be better to keep the tank from freezing. Good luck.

 

[Wave]

Thanks so much George!!!!

I love your idea with the SS-pipe. It would be a great addition just in case I decide to make it 4 season. Actually living in Colorado the temp can easily get cold in the mountains during spring and fall enough to want a 4 season setup.

Look forward to getting these tanks done.

Cheers,

David

 

[GeorgeRa]

I changed my design in the midst of building and moved the fresh water tank fill and outlet ports to the front side as marked. Check if location of the side brackets on the fresh water tank didn’t change since my 2013.

 

[goinoregon]

hi George
I see you are in pdx?
Do you ever host on-site looks at your van, and conversion? I live in pdx, and am in the day-dreaming phase of doing a conversion, and would like to see a conversion in person. if interested, my email is maildgo@msn.com
thx
greg

 

[Rtarannum]

Hi George,

Thank you for sharing your work. This is amazing. My intent was to build with wood, I still plan to do most build with wood (I have a bit f experience working wood)but definitely want to do 8020 for O/H cabinets.

I see a picture in your picture folder that lists all the materials required. I have zero experience working with 8020 and it is a little intimidating to start.

Do you have advice some resources to gain some basics of working with 8020?

A few other questions:
- Assuming fiber glass angle are spaced about a foot apart? Do they align with the existing holes on
- What is the first 8020 rail called? Where can I buy that?
- I also did not quite understand the third picture in the album. The part that is to the right of the blue tape, what is that for?

Appreciate your work in helping the DIY community!

Here is a set of pictures; they should be sufficient to order the material but please check with your supplier. Some changes to drawings were made, a lower outer extrusion is square to accommodate window curtains sliders. Order information is correct. This forum member asimba2 recently recorded a video of similar OH cabinets assembly, see link below.

https://goo.gl/photos/D6ScLYL9UYFbcw3n8
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=635465&postcount=64

Good luck,

 

[GeorgeRa]

hi George
I see you are in pdx?
Do you ever host on-site looks at your van, and conversion? I live in pdx, and am in the day-dreaming phase of doing a conversion, and would like to see a conversion in person. if interested, my email is maildgo@msn.com
thx
greg

Hi, I will send PM today.

George.

 

[GeorgeRa]

Hi George,
Thank you for sharing your work. This is amazing. My intent was to build with wood, I still plan to do most build with wood (I have a bit f experience working wood)but definitely want to do 8020 for O/H cabinets.
I see a picture in your picture folder that lists all the materials required. I have zero experience working with 8020 and it is a little intimidating to start.
Do you have advice some resources to gain some basics of working with 8020?
A few other questions:
- Assuming fiber glass angle are spaced about a foot apart? Do they align with the existing holes on
- What is the first 8020 rail called? Where can I buy that?
- I also did not quite understand the third picture in the album. The part that is to the right of the blue tape, what is that for?
Appreciate your work in helping the DIY community!

Thank you.

Regarding 8020 advise, this is what I would offer from my experience:

1. Use CAD for drawings, this is you fitting prototype.
2. Use these drawings for ordering machined parts from 80/20. More expensive indeed but payback is in quality and accelerated project.
3. Use factory fasteners, 80/20 t-slots act like a mini spring to keep fasteners in tension. See this video http://catalogs.8020.net/80-20-Inc-University-Booklet/4/ Study this site for more info.
4. In critical places use 2 fasteners, such as end-connector and angle connector.
5. Key benefit for 8020 is strong framing, for side panels use none or light weight.

A few other questions:
- Assuming fiber glass angle are spaced about a foot apart? Do they align with the existing holes on
They align with ribs in the ceiling and any marked location on the side 1.5”x0.75 8020 bar.

- What is the first 8020 rail called? Where can I buy that?
See updated album, 1534-Light

- I also did not quite understand the third picture in the album. The part that is to the right of the blue tape, what is that for?

I changed pictures sequence in the album. The picture with the tape is to mark location of the Rivnut which is 2 5/8” inward from outer headliner fastener on the ceiling beam/rib. With a sharp tool penetrate the headliner so you will see this location after the headliner is mounted in place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=7&v=X35wfuRqPKU

 

[GeorgeRa]

My 80/20 overhead cabinets have a potential to mount a folding children overhead bed. No need for us so it is not on our list to do but for other with these cabinet it could be a valuable concept.

The lower outer profiles are solidly mounted and can easily support a weight of one or two small kids. I used low t-slots for my curtains but outer t-slots are not used. A kid(s) bed size frame with hammock like fabric can be mounted on these outer t-slots.

https://goo.gl/photos/D6ScLYL9UYFbcw3n8

 

[GeorgeRa]

Some fixes. I found attaching Velcro to MB trim plastic problematic. For my window covers Velcros are keeping covers spread and they often fell off. To remedy the problem, I purchased Velcro hook rigid disks and attached them using VHB precut circles. To further secure them so they stay put I used either short screws for plastics or short sheet metal screws. I hope this will work. More pictures.

 

[GeorgeRa]

Another fix was to replace a monopod leg I used occasionally to strengthen mid table for heavy load, but height adjustment was troublesome. So, I used ¾ aluminum tent pole with a rubber foot. It folds and I have a good place behind the table to store it.

 

[GeorgeRa]

Sliding door closure assist handle.

I should have done it in 2013. It was on my list and I finely did it. I believe it should be done at the factory. I bought aluminum grab handle, counterbored 0.045” to accommodate rivnuts to increased area of contact between the handle and the door’s sheet metal. It works great, I strongly recommend this modification.

Counterbore diameter was within 0.010 of turned down rivnuts’ flanges so some precision in installation was necessary. I installed the first rivnut, 5/16”-18 using Astro 1442 setter, mounted the handle and using a transfer punch marked the second hole location. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN3YRDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[GeorgeRa]

More pictures

 

[GeorgeRa]

Nicely done with 8020 and HDPE combo, first time I see it in the commercial world. https://canyonadventurevans.com/outfitting-glss

 

[GeorgeRa]

I finally finished installation of city water inlet. I used very new to the market Aquor quick garden hose connector. My water hose was under the hood, so bumper was a good place to mount this quick connect water house. https://aquorwatersystems.com/

 

[GeorgeRa]

I added a window cover over the sink. It can easily be removed for washing. It works well with our window curtains. 80/20 profile slot are great for window covers. I also added a mirror which can be moved along 80/20 profile on the passenger side.

 

[This Old Light]

Nice, clean installation on the city water inlet George!

 

[This Old Light]

Recently I had a little time to get back to the Sprinter project and finished the shore power hook-up. Instead of using a popular 30A Marinco style twisting plug I decided to use a newer product, the SmartPlug with built in thermal protection and much easier insertion, the plug is self-aligned and no rotation is required. I still need to make a cable with SmartPlug female and RV 30A male.
The shore power inlet is mounted to the OEM hitch using McMaster Al junction box http://www.mcmaster.com/#75895k13/=px990m and http://www.mcmaster.com/#8302k191/=px99fs liquid tight cable grip. I drilled and tapped 2 holes (5/16”-20) on the hitch side plate and used sealant between the box and the hitch.

George.

George, When you ran the cable through the large oblong hole behind the bumper corner, did you then have to drill through the floor or any other body structure to run the cable into the van? I am assuming you ran it up the rearmost cavity, where the door hinges are located?

 

[GeorgeRa]

No drilling was required, I trimmed one of the flappers otherwise the vent valve would sty opened.

 

[This Old Light]

Thanks for the info George. That is helpful!

 

[GeorgeRa]

I finely cut 2 inches off the side skirts on the front seats to allow rotation withing raising them. I took me a while to find the right tool by experimenting with different saw blades on thin sheet of plastics. Some of them were disastrous, I finely got one from Makita for thin plastic which gave me clean cut with very little cleanup with a deburring tool.