Need Feedback On Simple Water System Diagram

[seven_osavage]

Hey ya'll, I am about to embark on actually connecting pipes for my water system and since you guys have been so knowledgable in the past I thought I'd run my water system diagram by you.

* In general I'm planning to use 1/2" PEX piping with sharkbite connectors.
* The only things that arent going to be 1/2" PEX are the fill pipe & gravity drain pipe.
* I'm looking for a "smell stopper" after the sink & shower but can't seem to find this product anywhere?

Would love any additional feedback from ya'll!

Thank you in advance!

 

[Graphite Dave]

* I'm looking for a "smell stopper" after the sink & shower but can't seem to find this product anywhere?

If you have a grey water tank under the floor, the smell stopper can be simple. Make a "trap" with the drain piping. Drain pipe path can make a "trap". From sink and shower run the pipe down below the tank and enter the tank bottom instead of the top. The first water will fill the drain piping below the tank bottom to seal the tank from the open drains.

https://www.ortontransit.info/gray-water

 

[flyag1]

My advise is to buy the crimping tools and barbs... stay as far away from the shark bites as possible.
Especially those coming from ROC sold in the big box stores.

 

[Shawn182]

Here are what a lot of units are installing in lieu of a trap:

https://hepvo.com

 

[wankel7]

Your uploaded image is 27k and too blurry to read....

I will second using the tool and pinch clamps. It was much easier than I anticipated.

Don't put brass male npt into female plastic npt.

Just use barbed fittings and the appropriate flexible hose for the water pump feed and pressure side. The silencing kits are a rip off.


The Hepvo valves are fantastic.

Consider some sort of water filtration. I'm so happy to have a two filter setup. You are going to find some scuzzy water out there. If you plan to drink it....filters are awesome.

The Ambassador marine shower valve is awesome.

Do you plan on winterizing your system? Design it so you can gravity drain it for winter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IJ0USC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[hein]

Those plastic accumulator tanks aren't that great. You don't need it.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098

 

[wankel7]

Those plastic accumulator tanks aren't that great. You don't need it.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098

I used the shurflo 4008 in a trailer with no accumulator.

When I did the van I got the same pump and added the accumulator... mainly because everyone else got the accumulator. When I read the pump manual it said the accumulator was not needed. I decided to install it anyways because I couldn't return it.

I couldn't be happier. The pump cycles less and when trickling water the flow is nice and steady.... just like it had residential water pressure. Much better than just the pump.

While it isn't needed.... it is very appreciated.

 

[seven_osavage]

Thank you guys for the feedback so far, super helpful!!

 

[Jonlen]

Why use 1/2" PEX? I just replumbed my 2015 Great West Van with 3/8". The tradeoff is very slight decline in max water flow for much less water down the drain waiting for hot water to appear. The smaller diameter also made it easier to route all the tubing inside the van's insulated envelop instead of running lines under the floor and more subject to freezing.

 

[Kevsuda]

One other consideration my be a ball valve here or there in order to maintenance the heater or other components in the system without having to completely drain the tank. I have one going to a coiled hose at the back door. I don't trust the cheesy coiled hose all that much (if it sprung a leak, it would pump until the tank is empty) so only open the ball valve when I need that hose.

 

[wankel7]

Why use 1/2" PEX? I just replumbed my 2015 Great West Van with 3/8". The tradeoff is very slight decline in max water flow for much less water down the drain waiting for hot water to appear. The smaller diameter also made it easier to route all the tubing inside the van's insulated envelop instead of running lines under the floor and more subject to freezing.

Availably of 1/2 inch stuff at any hardware store would be my guess.

3/8 seems like a fringe size.

 

[wankel7]

One other consideration my be a ball valve here or there in order to maintenance the heater or other components in the system without having to completely drain the tank. I have one going to a coiled hose at the back door. I don't trust the cheesy coiled hose all that much (if it sprung a leak, it would pump until the tank is empty) so only open the ball valve when I need that hose.

I used 3 ball valves so I can isolate / by pass the water heater and then two more so I can drain the hot / cold lines at the sink and shower valve.

I haven't tried yet but if it all works I should be able to gravity drain to winterize.

 

[marklg]

Your uploaded image is 27k and too blurry to read....

I will second using the tool and pinch clamps. It was much easier than I anticipated.

Don't put brass male npt into female plastic npt.

Just use barbed fittings and the appropriate flexible hose for the water pump feed and pressure side. The silencing kits are a rip off.


The Hepvo valves are fantastic.

Consider some sort of water filtration. I'm so happy to have a two filter setup. You are going to find some scuzzy water out there. If you plan to drink it....filters are awesome.

The Ambassador marine shower valve is awesome.

Do you plan on winterizing your system? Design it so you can gravity drain it for winter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IJ0USC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

My advise is to buy the crimping tools and barbs... stay as far away from the shark bites as possible.
Especially those coming from ROC sold in the big box stores.

What are the issues with the Shark Bites?

Which barbed fittings and crimps to use, brass or plastic? I am going to add a thermostatic mixing valve to the plumbing behind the shower and will need 45 degree fittings to route things around in the space I have. I don't want to cut more holes in the shower for another shower valve.

Any cutting and crimping tools known to work well?

Regards,

Mark

 

[ThomD]

I did the math and found that SharekBite connectors would get very expensive very quickly. If I had to do a confined space install I might use them in places where I could not get the crimp tool.

This is the crimper I used.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01919K6MW/

These are the clamps I used.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GU4YXA2/

Flawless.

I used the same cutter I've used on all my wiring:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU4YL8


I did have some complicated connections that would be under my water heater, so I prebuild a large section and then slid it into space.

 

[wankel7]

What are the issues with the Shark Bites?

Which barbed fittings and crimps to use, brass or plastic? I am going to add a thermostatic mixing valve to the plumbing behind the shower and will need 45 degree fittings to route things around in the space I have. I don't want to cut more holes in the shower for another shower valve.

Any cutting and crimping tools known to work well?

Regards,

Mark

The tool I linked to...the reply you quoted

I used these clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/2-inch-Stain...=apollo+pinch+clamp+pex&qid=1569241671&sr=8-4

The water system was easier than I thought. No leaks at all.

The first tool I got came with a faulty calibration tool. I called Apollo and they next day aired me a new tool. I couldn't believe they did that for a cheap $20 I got on amazon. Very impressed.

While I didn't use the quick connect fittings it seems like clamping your own gives you more flexibility in design.

 

[marklg]

I did the math and found that SharekBite connectors would get very expensive very quickly. If I had to do a confined space install I might use them in places where I could not get the crimp tool.

This is the crimper I used.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01919K6MW/

These are the clamps I used.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GU4YXA2/

Flawless.

I used the same cutter I've used on all my wiring:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU4YL8


I did have some complicated connections that would be under my water heater, so I prebuild a large section and then slid it into space.

The tool I linked to...the reply you quoted

I used these clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/2-inch-Stain...=apollo+pinch+clamp+pex&qid=1569241671&sr=8-4

The water system was easier than I thought. No leaks at all.

The first tool I got came with a faulty calibration tool. I called Apollo and they next day aired me a new tool. I couldn't believe they did that for a cheap $20 I got on amazon. Very impressed.

While I didn't use the quick connect fittings it seems like clamping your own gives you more flexibility in design.

What's already there are these fittings:



Regards,

Mark