Mike Rancourt
Member
I have a broken injector bolt (#3). Many people use/recommend Time-Serts (for example: here, here, here).
However, if you go to the manufacturer's website, you find that the kit everyone uses and ID Parts sells is now labeled "Obsolete," and they recommend instead using a kit called "Big Serts." The main difference is that the "Big Sert" uses a (potentially shorter) M8 hardened steel bolt instead of the stock M6 stretch bolt. This is probably great because that hardened M8 is going to be a lot more reliable.
However, nowhere in the instructions does it say anything about the proper torque for the bolt. With the old kit, it was simple: 62 in-lbs + 90 degrees (or 180 degrees). As is well discussed in Vic's legendary black death/injector thread, the 90 or 180 degree turn is stretching the bolt.
My Question: I have to assume with the hardened steel (non-stretch) bolt in the Big Sert, the proper thing to do is torque to 62 in-lbs and do no more turning. Does that sound right?
FYI:
1. Instructions for the older kit others have used can be found here
2. Here's the text on "obsolescence" from the Time-Sert website: "KIT p/n 1610E2 OBSOLETE We now offer 5812D below." The description for part number 5812D says, "Dodge sprinter / Mercedes injector hold down clamp bolt BIG-SERT OVERSIZED If you have a broken bolt at the bottom of the hole the 5812D will also take care of that problem. We now put an oversized BIG-SERT at the top of the head but you must use a larger M8x1.25 grade 8 bolt you can purchase separately at your local hardware store."
3. Here's a nice video on how to install Time-serts shared by another member.
4. This one is just for your amusement: I didn't break off the injector bolt the way you're thinking; not because it was "stuck" or because it was reassembled improperly. I had loosened the bolt in attempt to "pop" the injector (while driving 15 miles to Europarts SD to get my stretch bolts and copper seals, BTW), and when I wanted to tighten it again, I unwrapped my brand new cheap-o 1/4" drive in-lbs torque wrench, set it to 62 in-lbs, and promptly snapped the bolt. It turns out the wrench has an on-off switch. I never knew torque wrenches had that. I guess I just got lucky every other time I used a torque wrench that the person before me left it "on." Haha. This mistake has cost me a couple hundred dollars and many hours of work, and I'm not even done. But at least you can laugh at me for it. Ooops.
However, if you go to the manufacturer's website, you find that the kit everyone uses and ID Parts sells is now labeled "Obsolete," and they recommend instead using a kit called "Big Serts." The main difference is that the "Big Sert" uses a (potentially shorter) M8 hardened steel bolt instead of the stock M6 stretch bolt. This is probably great because that hardened M8 is going to be a lot more reliable.
However, nowhere in the instructions does it say anything about the proper torque for the bolt. With the old kit, it was simple: 62 in-lbs + 90 degrees (or 180 degrees). As is well discussed in Vic's legendary black death/injector thread, the 90 or 180 degree turn is stretching the bolt.
My Question: I have to assume with the hardened steel (non-stretch) bolt in the Big Sert, the proper thing to do is torque to 62 in-lbs and do no more turning. Does that sound right?
FYI:
1. Instructions for the older kit others have used can be found here
2. Here's the text on "obsolescence" from the Time-Sert website: "KIT p/n 1610E2 OBSOLETE We now offer 5812D below." The description for part number 5812D says, "Dodge sprinter / Mercedes injector hold down clamp bolt BIG-SERT OVERSIZED If you have a broken bolt at the bottom of the hole the 5812D will also take care of that problem. We now put an oversized BIG-SERT at the top of the head but you must use a larger M8x1.25 grade 8 bolt you can purchase separately at your local hardware store."
3. Here's a nice video on how to install Time-serts shared by another member.
4. This one is just for your amusement: I didn't break off the injector bolt the way you're thinking; not because it was "stuck" or because it was reassembled improperly. I had loosened the bolt in attempt to "pop" the injector (while driving 15 miles to Europarts SD to get my stretch bolts and copper seals, BTW), and when I wanted to tighten it again, I unwrapped my brand new cheap-o 1/4" drive in-lbs torque wrench, set it to 62 in-lbs, and promptly snapped the bolt. It turns out the wrench has an on-off switch. I never knew torque wrenches had that. I guess I just got lucky every other time I used a torque wrench that the person before me left it "on." Haha. This mistake has cost me a couple hundred dollars and many hours of work, and I'm not even done. But at least you can laugh at me for it. Ooops.