What did you do to your Sprinter today.

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
I finally received the key cloning machine that I ordered today and successfully made spares for my T1N!
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
I glued on an extra strip of weather seal to close the A-pillar gap on the front doors. Much less wind noise, even when the window frame gets sucked outward at highway speed. :thumbup:
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I glued on an extra strip of weather seal to close the A-pillar gap on the front doors. Much less wind noise, even when the window frame gets sucked outward at highway speed. :thumbup:
Which seal profile did you use? Adhesive?

I have been meaning to do this on my van for some time...
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Which seal profile did you use? Adhesive? ...
It’s a square base profile with two seal “ears”, about 1/2” wide and 5/8” tall?
I masked off the frame and used a spray contact adhesive (Permatex No.27829)
(tip: pulling the tape off in quick jerks avoids stretching out the fresh adhesive like a “3M Command Strip”...)
It’s glued up against the top edge at the rear, then against the forward edge down the A-pillar, short lip outboard, with about a 1/8” setback. Getting this placement right was finicky, but allows the seal to catch the door’s edge firmly, but without popping over (though the in-swing misses it down near the mirror where the edge is moving forward rather than in). I stopped just below the upper hinge, and at the rear corner.
I wiped on a silicon spray to let the seal slide on the door as it closes.

(A side benefit will be the elimination of the powdered snow that fills the gap above the window frame and drops onto the driver’s seat when you open the door. Maybe I won’t have to brush off my seat quite as often?)

I bought mine at NAPA:
“Sponge Rubber Weatherstrip 770-1617”
upc: 6 64766 39053 1
Packaged by “Auto-Fastener Group Inc, Cold Spring KY 41076”
Stock control stickers: T000276388E and TLPNPP7059

-dave
 

Attachments

Last edited:
I remember reading about adding some additional rubber seals around the front doors, but had thought they were added on the interior.

Thanks for the even better solution to mitigating the wind noise.

Several trucks like Toyota have double rubber seals. Now we can too. Thanks Nautamaran and thanks ahead of time for the rubber part number when time allows.
 

Mickyfin

Member
I'm off top the lumberyard shortly to pickup the correct type wood for the cargo floor beams, also picking up some 50mm hardboard Kingspan TP10 insulation for the floor, plus some thin ply to assist with the drilling and mounting of the exterior penetrations, LPG, Water inlets, Mains hook up and BBQ outlet.
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
Today I was treated to the opportunity to rehang and reconnect my exhaust. I did the 2” coupler slip and seal trick (again) but added some flanges and threaded rod to keep everything pulled together. Hopefully this repair holds up to Philadelphia potholes for more than a year. I also picked up some weatherstripping and added it to the leading and top edges of the cab doors Thanks for the great tip Nautamaran
 

Attachments

zmelms

New member
Wow! That kinda puts the Sportsmobiles of the world to shame. Too bad you didn't do a build thread. I love the view holes to the water tank, so much more accurate than using a gauge. Not sure if you bump your head when sleeping, the vans not that wide. Also not obvious where you shower and poop, but the bike tray and the pass thru storage for large things. GREAT. The little ladder to get into bed, so cute.

-Randy
Hey Randy, thanks my Dad and I are really proud of the finished work. I have photos of most of the process and have considered doing a thread or a blog. While building I was more worried about making than posting, learned a lot while doing it (i'd still be building it if I had been also posting).

Bathroom - not in this build, could be added as a pull out under the bed.
Shower - in the great out doors or camp facilities. We've only been vanning for a few trips now (weekenders) and we end up much less dirty in the van than we ever did in a tent so less need to shower if it's only a couple days at a go.
The Bed - we sleep with heads on the drivers side which is why the cabinet is only on the foot end
 

Garandman

Active member
2006 Body finished today: not by me, of course, closed course, professional driver. Doors tomorrow, final assembly and should have it next week!



 

JFloFoto

Active member
Cleaned the EGR valve at 33k miles. PITA to get out... Took a lot of wiggling and niggling, but it came out and service was done in situ w/o removing coolant lines. I think this is a must ~ every 30k miles.





Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
BrennWagon, thanks for the photos. Looking good.

We both have silver/gray vans and I am considering finding a gray bedliner product.

Some of the bedliners bubbly texture bothers me, as I would prefer a smoother finish, especially the kevlar based headliners that I have seen. I like the idea of Kevlar, but the lumps look more than any of the products I have seen. The smoother the better for me.

Did you roll it on or buy the spray cans, or use a spray gun?

As with a lot of detailed work, it is all in the prep time spent and your efforts show the extra effort.

The on the road noise mitigation is an additional plus of covering our vans with bedliner.

Which product did you use? Thanks.
 

Mickyfin

Member
My x 5 new BFGoodrich KO2's arrived today so will be getting those fitted to my freshly powder costed OEM alloys soon, pumped! Pardon the pun!
 

BrennWagon

He’s just this guy, you know?
BrennWagon, thanks for the photos. Looking good.

We both have silver/gray vans and I am considering finding a gray bedliner product.

Some of the bedliners bubbly texture bothers me, as I would prefer a smoother finish, especially the kevlar based headliners that I have seen. I like the idea of Kevlar, but the lumps look more than any of the products I have seen. The smoother the better for me.

Did you roll it on or buy the spray cans, or use a spray gun?

As with a lot of detailed work, it is all in the prep time spent and your efforts show the extra effort.

The on the road noise mitigation is an additional plus of covering our vans with Bedliner

Which product did you use? Thanks.
I used Herculiner on the black parts. It’s said that they make gray and white colors too but good luck finding them!! I rolled/brushed it on and it’s said that you can strain out the rubber grains for a smoother finish. It does mitigate a fair amount of road noise but it’s the rust protection I’m after more than anything else. Form follows function, and I go on the roof enough that a non skid surface is helpful, plus this way I don’t feel like I need to put decking on the roof rack. The paint is an ongoing process, it’s Rustoleum Aluminum oil based paint that I rolled 6 coats on after extensive rust treatment. I’m slowly wet sanding the whole thing to prep for a final base and clear coat. And I’m putting stripes down the sides once the base coat is finished. The paint has held up extremely well, prep work is everything and a final wipe down with xylene really helped the silver bond with the factory paint and primers.
 

mtncrawler

Active member
Tonight I added a switch that allows me to power my stereo and amp without a key in the ignition (jumper from cigarette lighter positive to radio acc wire). Also put together a tray to add an aux battery under the passenger seat
I'd be interested in more details on this. I'd like to power my stereo and amp (both aftermarket) from my house batteries for camping. Maybe not quite the same setup - maybe some type of switch where the stereo/amp draws power from main electrical when the van is running and then a switch to draw from house when not.
 

Top Bottom