Using 80/20

Sdavis

2014 144 HT
I cut my extrusions so that the ends were flush then added the end caps. The end caps are only 2-3 millimeters thick and I’m okay with the way that looks.
 

Akatdog

2006 3500 170
Keep in mind the type of connection you are using at the corner the end cap will be used on. On of my joints I thought I would be smart and cut the extrusion 2-3mm short so the end cap would be flush at the corner. (Counter corner next to the dinette so it will be rubbed a lot) When I went to snap the cap on it interfered with one of the wings on the corner connector I used and I had to cut off the wing on that side.
 
Has anybody built out an 80/20 free standing bed? How about three frames bolted together to allow disassembly and overlaid with plywood and mattress? No need to bolt it to the sides, just maybe to the floor using tie downs.
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
My Rock & Roll bed is not free standing, it is bolted to the floor. Designing a free-standing bed frame wouldn’t be difficult but it would be much easier if it would be bolted to the floor. I don’t know how much room you will have, you could design a bed on legs which would swing down for total bed collapse instead of making it removable – free standing. https://goo.gl/photos/UVupnzpkrGAVs4sUA
 

Davydd

Well-known member
Humble Road is building a Futon bed out of 80/20. Google Humble Road on Youtube to get the build videos.
 

DesertRat

Member
It looks like, from wading through a lot of this thread, that the consensus to attach the 8020 to a wall is to attach angle to the wall, then attach the angle to the 8020? Has anyone figured out any other elegant ways of attaching it, such as some sort of countersink screw, with a small head diameter, through the center of 8020 to a rivnut/plusnut? Getting geared up to start some of my 8020 work and trying to figure out the best and cheapest way of accomplishing this. Thank you in advance!
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
It looks like, from wading through a lot of this thread, that the consensus to attach the 8020 to a wall is to attach angle to the wall, then attach the angle to the 8020? Has anyone figured out any other elegant ways of attaching it, such as some sort of countersink screw, with a small head diameter, through the center of 8020 to a rivnut/plusnut? Getting geared up to start some of my 8020 work and trying to figure out the best and cheapest way of accomplishing this. Thank you in advance!
Angle is the easiest. Be sure to thermally isolate each attachment point. If you do not the 80/20 will be close to the van steel temperature. Bypasses any insulation. You do want to ground the structure in one location.

Some additional information on using 80/20 not on Sprinter site:


http://www.ortontransit.info/testeighty4.php
 

brownvan

2017 4X4 HR 144"
It looks like, from wading through a lot of this thread, that the consensus to attach the 8020 to a wall is to attach angle to the wall, then attach the angle to the 8020? Has anyone figured out any other elegant ways of attaching it, such as some sort of countersink screw, with a small head diameter, through the center of 8020 to a rivnut/plusnut? Getting geared up to start some of my 8020 work and trying to figure out the best and cheapest way of accomplishing this. Thank you in advance!
Yes, you can use a button-head hex-drive screw + washer in any slot with a 7 mm access hole to drive it in from the far slot. I did all my internal frame attachment points in this manner using 4040 extrusions and class10.9 M8 hardware. See pics below:
 

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DesertRat

Member
Dave and BrownVan, Thank you!

I do intend to isolate it. I have 1/4" and 1/8" minicell foam for that purpose, and it is a good tip ground it.
 

ThomD

Member
I"ve used both styles - angle piece from wall to 8020 and 8020 as a base. I prefer using an angle piece. In my setup, where i used the 8020 on the wall I ended up with the cabinet an extra 1.5 inches from the wall to make room for the 8020. I don't like wasting that space so I'll probably redo that piece. The other issue is getting a right angle at the joint. As you can see in brownvan's image, the walls are not at right angles to to the floor. Something has to give. I found it easier to deal with this with the angle connection.

They both work, you just have to be aware of the issues.
 

DesertRat

Member
I haven't gotten into designing my cabinets yet, but I am putting my bed together and some frames to hold batteries and water tanks over the wheel wells. For the wheel wells, I am going to use some 1.5x1.5 Al angle I've got to tie the 8020 to the wall in 6 locations. I want to tied pretty well, since the batteries are 300lb, and I want to avoid issues with speed bumps haha.

I'm using 3 x 4 in angle for the bed, that way I've got some real estate to put some 5/16 screws through. It's taken me a while to decide how I wanted to put these together, but I'm pretty happy with how it's coming together now.

Thank you for your advice!
 

SantiagoPM

2018 Promaster 159 gas
Hi, I looked into and purchased small quantity of 80/20 and connectors.

Changed my mind, will use these samples elsewhere. I instead chose to weld mild steel square/rectangular tubing.

What I wanted to convey at this time was the thermal break I settled on that isolated all steel components I install. I needed it to have high compressive strength as it will be squeezed between my metal framing and van's steel beams. I do not think soft insulation would hold up to the forces imposed by a crash.

I purchased (2) 1/4" 12"x12" fiberglass panes that so far seem tough and machine well. As far as I can determine 1/4" fiberglass insulates about the same as 3/4" wood. Using this at all my interfaces with the van.

Attached photo and link of where I purchased for anyone interested.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8758


Santiago
 

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GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I needed to get an angle bracket and a few rolled-in t-nuts from 8020. I think 8020 got better regarding shipping costs by providing info of the shipping costs upfront, and by shipping from one shipping department instead a few in the past. Shipping costs are a little lower but still too high for my taste, especially for ground shipping.

My total merchandise was $14, shipping was $14. Being spoiled by Amazon their shipping cost was rather high.

So, I bought same items, also from 8020 but via Amazon. 8020 is not a Prime account, but shipping cost was one half of the factory shipping cost - $7 vs $14.
 

DesertRat

Member
I'm thinking of ordering my next bit of t slot from MCarr. Any idea is there is a length cut off, where shipping gets more expensive? Over 6ft, 8ft? I'd like to just order the 10ft sections but afraid in going to pay more for shipping, than for the part.
 

GSWatson

2013 144
I bought some 80/20 from Zoro a couple years ago. The price was good, but both times They just slapped should be in stickers on the bear piece of 8020 - no packaging whatsoever. I complained when I receive the first piece; they refunded me and sent out another piece. It arrived in the same fashion; I complained and they refunded me that one as well. I was using it’s for my solar panel and paddleboard/kayak rack, so I wasn’t too worried about the nicks and scrapes, but it took me Hours to get the stickers off. Those clear envelopes that packing slips come in are unbelievably tenacious… It looks like they still have good prices, but I would be very wary about the shipping.

Greg
 

ron-osborn

New member
I'm coming to this party late but have a design I hope folks might comment on. Got my 144 HR 4x4 last fall. Its been cold in Colorado so I've worked on honing some CAD skills to get the attached build layout and 8020 framework complete. Pretty happy with the cardboard mockups I've done and am getting ready to place my order of 15 series profiles and hardware. I've found distributors for 8020 and T Slot in Denver so plan to get a bid from each and pick up order to avoid shipping. costs

I've learned a bunch working my way through this tread and plan to use a combination of Dave's home made connectors and 8020 anchor fasteners (limited to outside face frame corners). I've got my insulated layered floor mostly done and will bolt cabinet bases to both the Sprinter chassis anchors and 3/8" t-nuts I'll install under the plywood floor. The back side will be anchored to 3075 rails like many have done. I've been waffling between using the 1515 lite and ultra lite profiles and am leaning toward the former except for maybe short cross members not tied to the floor or sides.

One challenge I'm facing are framing side cabinets to support a platform bed oriented sideways into my installed flares. I'm thinking of cantilevering cabinet backsides a few inches into the flarespace and span the inside cabinet edges with three or maybe two platform bed sections.

So here's my idea I'm hoping others might comment on. For the backside of framing I plan to use external T plate connectors to short 1575 "half" profile risers that support the cantilevers into the flarespace. Will that be sufficiently rigid or will racking perpendicular to the face of the plate connectors be a problem.

I've also looked at 8020's defection calculator and it appears that the platform bed section spanning between cabinets can be made for 1575 profile in its stronger orientation and only deflect .1" with a 300 lb load centered over the 45" beam. That seems like a big savings in wt and cost by avoiding the 1515 profile. It doesn't seem like anyone has tried something like this yet so what's the downside and am I overlooking anything? Thanks for all that great knowledge out there. I wouldn't have tackled such a project on my own.
 

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asimba2

ourkaravan.com
This is how Grainger and McMaster ship 80/20. The bend(s) are free of charge.



I have made one order from Fastenal, who ended up getting the wrong profile in the wrong color and still charged me for it because it was a "custom order." Then there was McMaster that sends it bent. I have placed five orders through Amazon with no issue, so I will stick with them. The big advantage of using Amazon is the ability to open multiple browser windows and add profiles of varying length to see what works out the cheapest with shipping. It's often cheaper to order smaller lengths as it reduces shipping cost, but the amount of waste factors in too. I talk about that here: https://ourkaravan.com/8020-extruded-aluminum-van-cabinets/
 

GSWatson

2013 144
I ordered, twice, from Zoro.com. Each time the pieces were shipped by just slapping labels on the bare metal They arrived with scrapes at nick‘s and‘s with an hour of labor to remove the stubborn adhesive from the labels. The second piece was shipped The same, even after lodging a complaint on the first. Fortunately, they refunded me each time, so building my solar panel/kayak rack was quite reasonable… :)


Greg
 

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