You should be nervous. If anything happens to your present ignition key it will cost you time and probably more money than necessary.
This modification has been discussed elsewhere. I figured that I'd condense the info to one place.
Install a Permanent Chip for Starting
Thanks goes to One call a/c.
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Replacement-Transmitters-Mercedes-Sprinter/dp/B01A2SNBAK
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=110868&highlight=MB17#post110868
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=155692#post155692
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27049
vic
Some general information about how the transponder chip works.
More info from Autostaretx Dick.
SOS Key Option
A pretty good deal actually.
From RJV.
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR REMOTE FOB SPRINTERS.
The remote locks will not function when the RFID chip is glued to the ignition ring.
Thanks goes to Graytea and Autostaretx Dick.
If the click link is dead the info is found around Post #40.
(I thank my lucky stars that my used 2006 came with 4 ea. remote Fobs... I needed to ask them to look around and find the spares.)
Boeingpilot provides the whole enchilada.
Key cutting, clone, everything needed for DIY. One option is just the clone machine with a BRASS key cut by local locksmith.
DIY Cloned Keys - Clone and Cutting Machines
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=753489#post753489
This modification has been discussed elsewhere. I figured that I'd condense the info to one place.
Install a Permanent Chip for Starting
Thanks goes to One call a/c.
Steel OEM style key. It fits, but most locksmiths will not cut a steel key. I hand cut/copied mine.So much easier to epoxy the chip from the key to the transponder ring
Howboutcha-
Added by vic:
The chip is best levered out using the Three Point Star side of the OEM key. I used a small thin blade screwdriver to slide in on the sides a bit to first loosen. I suppose that an Exacto blade could work, but they are brittle. After that I pried the chip holder up/out until I could grab it with pliers. I distorted the key plastic, but it formed back enough that the empty holder could be re-inserted. The chip holder and chip are pretty rugged so damaging them isn't a real concern.
If you epoxy the chip into place, test any chip location choice before final epoxy. My chip wouldn't work unless in specific positions. The alignment and position of the narrow end of the chip seem to be critical. Narrow end goes near the face as shown.
The sensing ring can be easily accessed by removing 2 ea. screws above the FB#1 and tipping the plastic housing down. A pair of needle nose pliers can then position and set the chip using Goop glue. Either side of the cable tombstone can be selected for the chip installation. Favor the chip being as close to the face of the ring as practical. Even if it is a bit proud, before hardening, the Goop glue will let the chip slide back a bit when the outer plastic housing cover is re-installed. Unlike epoxy, Goop glue allows easy re-positioning. Once cured it will tenaciously hold the chip into place.
Plastic handle OEM appearing un-programmed or non-chip brass keys are cheap to buy. Look for brass. I couldn't find a local locksmith to cut a steel key for me. I recommend choosing an OEM key look-a-like rather than a plain brass key. Then you will walk like a duck.
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Replacement-Transmitters-Mercedes-Sprinter/dp/B01A2SNBAK
Some links with even more key related information.Cheaper Key for T1N Doors MB17, etc.
...
A recent thread/post listed some key blanks which should work for the doors only. A properly cut ILCO MB-17 blank works for certain. I have a DL YM19 key which a locksmitth cut and works fine on my 2004 doors. I can't speak for the other blanks listed here.
The list:
(Thanks goes to Autostaretx)
A nice feature of that site is their list of MB-17 equilavents:
o Curtis MB37
o Dominion (DL) YM19
o ESP MB17
o Ilco MB17 (Key handle size needs to be reduced to extend key length.)
o JMA ME-HM
o Silca YM15
o Taylor M81X
**************
Some additional info from another site.
Reference 1
IC Card 152 (RFID clone reference?)
Silca Card 15 (RFID clone reference?)
Silca Key Blank YM15
ILCA key Blank MB17
Keyline Key Blank YS15
JMA Key Blank ME-HM
YM15T5-SI Silca Transponder Key
**************
Edit: It was suggested that a MB19 fits and is long enough to insert into the ignition without modification. I have no verification on this suggestion, but probably worth checking.
--dick
***
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=110868&highlight=MB17#post110868
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=155692#post155692
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27049
vic
Some general information about how the transponder chip works.
I have noticed that the OEM chips are located on the inside of the key close to the sensing ring. Most of the aftermarket keys that I've seen place the chip on the opposite edge. That moves the chip a bit further away vs OEM. Is that position less reliable/critical?Good observation.
I have no information either. *My guess* is that clone key architecture is different from OEM keys. I have no data.
For those who may be a bit foggy on the RFID chip technology.
There is a responder chip buried in the key or Fob. The ignition key transponder ring creates an electrical field around the chip. That provides enough energy for the chip to chirp/transmit an identity code. No battery is needed for the chip to work. (Card key access to buildings uses similar technology.)
The transponder ring receives the chirped code which allows a module(s) to interpret whether that code is from a key that has been programmed into the security system.
Clone keys copy the chirped code so that it appears the same as an already introduced/saved security code. To my knowledge, a clone key cannot be introduced as a new key to the security system. An OEM chipped key that has not been properly introduced/saved into the security system will not be recognized. The dealership needs to add it to your vehicle security database.
vic
Added:
A local locksmith mentioned that there are different technologies for cloning. Apparently some are more reliable than others. He said that he no longer uses copy cloning because they can lose the program. He didn't elaborate. I don't know the details. Another locksmith commented that copy cloning Mercedes products is sometimes "finicky".
More info from Autostaretx Dick.
20180906 Added:...
p.s. hint for other one-key people: take a decent *photograph* of your key (with a ruler nearby)
... many locksmiths can work from that, too... (many years ago a forum-member locksmith successfully did it from my key photo)
Mechanical copies [before needed] are really cheap insurance:
View attachment 92407
SOS Key Option
A pretty good deal actually.
From RJV.
I'm in a similar situation and have been following your key saga on the various threads.
It won't fit into the door because it is too thick? You might try filing the thickness down to see if it works. Others have had varying degrees of success in doing so.
I gave this advice to another member the other day: Everyone likes to save a few bucks, and all the members here, in general, prefer DIY methods when possible. But at a certain point you have to ask yourself what your time, and the headache is worth. I've spent at least 6hrs driving around trying to DIY a key or having a locksmith do it, etc. Nothing has worked and I'm down to 1 remaining original working key on my 2006(regular non fob key). I contacted SOS Diagnostics and for $40 they'll make duplicate non fob keys that work in door and ignition. So the way I'm looking at it, for $160 and the price of 1 day shipping the key to and from SOS, I can get 4 working keys and I won't have to deal with the hassle any longer. So that's what I'm going to be doing next week.
I do believe they can make the $40 non fob key for you from your fob key.
Now, I realize that might not be as easy for everyone as it is for me--I have another vehicle I can use during that time so I won't be without one for the 3-5 days my 1 working key will be gone.
Here's the email I got from them regarding pricing:
Sprinter 2002-06 duplicates
The programming charge for factory original keys is $100.
Factory remote keys are $330 each (subject to price changes by MB. Not all vans are equipped with this option) and the programming. We need the van present or the immobilizer module (SKREEM) shipped for programming. The keys are special order by VIN. The turnaround time for these keys is 2-6 business days after deposit.
Parts needed:
SKREEM / WSP
Copies of owners’ Registration and Government Issue I.D.
Completed “Secure Data Release” forms
Aftermarket non-remote keys that will start your van are $40 each including programming. The turnaround time is one business day.
Parts needed:
One working key
A “hide-a-key” or a key that will only open the door is $3. For these keys we only need a good working key for duplication. The turnaround time is one business day.
Note: Used remotes from a different van cannot be programmed. Remotes are VIN specific.
SKREEM removal instructions
Why use SOS for your programming? First, because of our reputation, check our feedback. Second, because we have programmed hundreds of ECU's and keys and we have a complex inventory of high quality equipment and test vehicles to ensure parts and programming are good and ready for plug-and-run installation. You may find someone on the internet advertising a cheaper price, but few have the experience and the ability to program and test parts like we can. Ask them how they will test your parts.
Turnaround times can vary due to varying work load and employee vacations. We quote many jobs daily and do not know exact dates about when items will arrive here for programming. To confirm your turnaround time, feel free to ask before shipping your parts. Please include the date your shipment is expected to arrive at our location if making this request.
Our FAQ page will answer most questions not addressed in your quote or on the shipment forms.
If you have no further questions regarding your quote, no further correspondence is necessary. You can ship the parts and forms indicated above if you decide to use our service.
All packages must include the completed and signed shipping forms (only all-keys-lost programming and odometer correction require proof of ownership documents). VIN numbers are always 17 characters long so all boxes must be filled. Shipping forms can be found on the “contact us” page of the sosdiagnostics.com website. Please review these forms for more information about shipping and billing.
Packages from outside the US must also include the completed international shipping forms. If we have to process customs forms, we charge a $25 customs handling fee on top of the actual UPS shipping for orders outside the US. You can calculate approximate costs using http://www.UPS.com
Shipment Form / International Authorization Form
NOTE: please attach this message to all replies.
Thank you,
Chad Edwards
SOS Diagnostics / SOS Lock Service
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR REMOTE FOB SPRINTERS.
The remote locks will not function when the RFID chip is glued to the ignition ring.
Thanks goes to Graytea and Autostaretx Dick.
If the click link is dead the info is found around Post #40.
If the remote lock Fob is to remain functional the RFID chip needs to remain inside the Fob.Bingo...Another fact:
Mother Mercedes does like to over-engineer systems.
Maybe they tied them together...
I just went out and tried it.
If my key is sitting in the ignition (engine off, key in "zero" position)
...(drum roll) ...
The fob buttons DO NOT WORK!
If i pull my key out, but hold the fob in the same next-to-hole/bezel position: they DO NOT WORK.
If i pull my key out and hold it 6 inches away ... THEY DO WORK.
So: if the chip is sensed, the remote fob is ignored.
--dick (experimentation!)
p.s. the SKREEM, CTM (central timing module) and Security System Module (under driver's seat) have their own private communication wire ... see page 8w-39-6 in the 2006 service manual. (i'm still looking for the bezel antenna connection... i think it'll be the ECM itself.)
p.p.s. the "can't remotely lock (or unlock) with key in place" means your co-driver can't lock you out of the Sprinter when your keys are in the ignition.
(I thank my lucky stars that my used 2006 came with 4 ea. remote Fobs... I needed to ask them to look around and find the spares.)
Boeingpilot provides the whole enchilada.
Key cutting, clone, everything needed for DIY. One option is just the clone machine with a BRASS key cut by local locksmith.
DIY Cloned Keys - Clone and Cutting Machines
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=753489#post753489
Last edited: