The only way I can get the turbo actuation arm back on the turbo arm is by starting the van.At that point the actuation arm drops down and I can then put the eyelet hole onto the turbo arm.Is this normal? My actuator was rebuilt at sometime,I called the company on the sticker.The tech said try rotating the motor inside.No luck always returned to the same home position.
turbo actuator indexing
- Thread starter auto1
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autostaretx
Erratic Member
Don't forget that MB expects their service people to have dealer-like diagnostic systems available to help...
The DAD (for example, thus an old CarSoft unit can, too) can command the turbo positioner to move to any position from 5% to 95% and stay there.
--dick
The DAD (for example, thus an old CarSoft unit can, too) can command the turbo positioner to move to any position from 5% to 95% and stay there.
--dick
terra_firma
Member
Sooo i have yet to find out if that pin on the "bell crank" (i think thats what its called) is removeable, i had to slide the eyelet hole off and on this by pulling the arm towards me.
When re-installing, i left the bolts loose and fit the eyelet onto the bell crank and then tightened it all over.
Socket for the lower two 10mm bolts, and a ratcheting wrench for the long bolt...didnt have to remove the turbo resonator or anything else this way aside from the heat shield
When re-installing, i left the bolts loose and fit the eyelet onto the bell crank and then tightened it all over.
Socket for the lower two 10mm bolts, and a ratcheting wrench for the long bolt...didnt have to remove the turbo resonator or anything else this way aside from the heat shield
After a number of attempts to re index/lower the actuator arm with no luck,I resorted to basics.I bent the connector shaft in a dog leg to shorten the rod so that the rod would slip on the arm when the motor is off.To my amazement all my turbo limp problems stopped.I would guess the ecu was looking for a certain amount of actuation with a set amount of MAF flow, throttle position and boost. My actuator arm would point pretty much point to the corner of the actuator box.Looking on the net most pictures showed the arm lower than that. This brings me to ask-is there a adjustable turbo rod available.Also if some has a used actuator and shaft that they want to sell if the arm sit lower please PM me. This is my first sprinter and I do like it but it was starting to test me.
abittenbinder
Doktor A (864-623-9110)
Now you understand why Garret calibrates the actuators to each individual turbo.
When a domestic turbo rebuilder sends you a turbo sans actuator and sells 'rebuilt' actuators separately, they risk the same issue you have experienced.
Sometimes they are lucky sometimes not so lucky.
Doktor A
When a domestic turbo rebuilder sends you a turbo sans actuator and sells 'rebuilt' actuators separately, they risk the same issue you have experienced.
Sometimes they are lucky sometimes not so lucky.
Doktor A
Gaspiper
Active member
My Turbo went last year and without any hesitation I paid $2200 for a brand new Garret OEM unit that I could only get from Napa same day !!! 3 hours later new Turbo was in and back to work!
Got in Got out and Got on
Yes you are right Andy,and I was this close to buying a new MAF.By the way this Joe we spoke about my injector knock(which is much less pronounced now.) I did take my van to a local diesel service center that has a MB scanner.He agreed on the injector knock and said he cycled the actuator.Why he didn't question the misalignment of the rod and turbo arm now puzzles me. Still planning a trip down to you for the injector rattle.No luck find 100% biodiesel in my area.
Did he know that the turbo actuator wasn't OEM or was fit with a possibly crappy aftermarket part?
Your situation is not expected for "normal" Sprinters. You can't really blame someone if they don't have all of the facts.
vicMy discovery of the rebuilt actuator was after the tech checked it out.On the bill it states"removed and tested linkage.He had to have lowered the shaft with his scanner to reinstall the shaft on the arm. In fact I gave him a written blow by blow of what I did over my wasted summer trying to figure out why I was losing boost at light throttle pressure.Having now opened up my actuator, if there was a way to remove and re-index the position wheel,that would be my solution.I did not chance prying it off figuring it would break.It could use a new worm gear if anyone could direct me to where I could buy one.
lindenengineering
Well-known member
Wow! A wasted summer fannying around trying to get your Sprinter to work properly.
To me this seems like either a Labor of Love or a Ponderous Task!
How' s about this novel idea?
A new turbocharger from Garret complete with actuator already matched is $1100. (US green money)
It's even a DIY job if you are handy with tools ! Shop quote time is 3,5 hours to change out say my Snap On Shop Key management system!!
You will need a triangular gasket for the manifold , plus one for the train and a top hat seal.
Total cost $50! Not exactly a king's ransom.
Add an oil change--Is a must do! Say Rotella T6, that's 10 qrts and an MB filter $15,00. Yurdun!
No more brain damage!
Otherwise it has to be THE SIGN from the Emerald Isle!
A Catlick Irish blessing on yah !--Here's a visual!
Dennis
Can't help it tiz the Irish in me doncha know!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqXZ9YoRD50
Hindsight is 20/20 I never gave the turbo a thought because it made more than enough boost.I read so many threads on limp mode it makes your head spin.Every day " help my sprinter goes into limp mode" I watched people throw thousands of dollars at limp mode and still have the same issue.So guess what,I fixed mine with a propane torch and a vise and those thousands of dollars are still in my pocket.