Thanasis
Active member
I just replaced the OEM sway bar with a new Roadmaster one (part # 1209-117)
I bought this sway bar kit on Ebay for $270 including shipping.
The OEM bar on my vehicle was 0.870in in diameter, while he Roadmaster one is 1 ⅛in and heavier.
I raised the rear of the vehicle getting it on wooden blocks 4in-high.
Tools used: 13mm and 18 mm wrench and socket.
The new bar attaches to the same points on the axle and the end links as the old one.
In addition to the bar the kit includes:
- two brackets (to replace the original ones) which are to be bolted on the axle mounting points, using the original bolts. These brackets have 2 metal tubes welded on them though which the mounting bolts to the axle pass. . They come with their own permanent bolts to receive the steel clamps below (photo #2)
- two steel clamps and rubber bushings that wrap the bar and secure it on the brackets above.
Here are the installation steps I followed:
1. Removed the old bar by:
- cutting the plastic ties that help secure the break lines to the old bar ( Note: the brake lines run below the bar, so you have to find a way around them to remove the bar.)
- removing the bolts that hold the bar to the end links
- swinging the bar out of the endlinks
- removing the old clamps from brackets
- sliding and swinging the bar to lower it, avoiding the brake lines.
2. Preped up the new bar:
- The rubber rings at the ends of my new bar were not fully inserted making those ends too wide to fit in the end links. I used a C clamp to apply pressure and fully insert them into the bar ends. I also applied some of the grease that came with the kit on these rubber rings to help slide the bar ends into the end links.
3. Installation
- Inserted the bar ends to the end links. That took some effort because the fit was too tight. I found that lying on my back gave me some extra leverage to push the bar upwards with both arms. Passed the old bolts through them
- swung the brake lines up so that the hole of their little metal bracket, lines up with the upper bolt hole that is used to attach the bar bracket to the axle mounting area.
- attached loosely the new brackets to the axle inserting the upper bolts ONLY through their upper tubes . This is necessary to prevent the lower bolts of the bracket from getting in the way of the bar, when it is swung up its final position by the axle. Remember to get the brake line’s bracket attached to that upper bolt too
- swung the bar up so that it rests between the bracket’s permanent bolts
- lined up the brackets lower tube to the holes on the axle's mounting structure, and inserted the lower bolts to compete the installation of the brackets to the axle, with the bar still between the bracket’s permanent bolts.
- greased the bushings and push them onto the bar right the the bracket location
- Insert the bushing clamps and fasten them to the brackets.
I used Lock-tite on all bolts involved.
Photos:
1. Old bar with its bracket and clamp. The wide plastic tie down of the brake line was cut and removed
2. New bracket with its tubes and permeant bolts, plus the new clamp and its rubber bushing.
3. The new and the old bars
4. The axle mounting area after the removal of the old bar and bracket. Note the brake line and its little support bracket loose.
5. The new bar mounted on the axle
I bought this sway bar kit on Ebay for $270 including shipping.
The OEM bar on my vehicle was 0.870in in diameter, while he Roadmaster one is 1 ⅛in and heavier.
I raised the rear of the vehicle getting it on wooden blocks 4in-high.
Tools used: 13mm and 18 mm wrench and socket.
The new bar attaches to the same points on the axle and the end links as the old one.
In addition to the bar the kit includes:
- two brackets (to replace the original ones) which are to be bolted on the axle mounting points, using the original bolts. These brackets have 2 metal tubes welded on them though which the mounting bolts to the axle pass. . They come with their own permanent bolts to receive the steel clamps below (photo #2)
- two steel clamps and rubber bushings that wrap the bar and secure it on the brackets above.
Here are the installation steps I followed:
1. Removed the old bar by:
- cutting the plastic ties that help secure the break lines to the old bar ( Note: the brake lines run below the bar, so you have to find a way around them to remove the bar.)
- removing the bolts that hold the bar to the end links
- swinging the bar out of the endlinks
- removing the old clamps from brackets
- sliding and swinging the bar to lower it, avoiding the brake lines.
2. Preped up the new bar:
- The rubber rings at the ends of my new bar were not fully inserted making those ends too wide to fit in the end links. I used a C clamp to apply pressure and fully insert them into the bar ends. I also applied some of the grease that came with the kit on these rubber rings to help slide the bar ends into the end links.
3. Installation
- Inserted the bar ends to the end links. That took some effort because the fit was too tight. I found that lying on my back gave me some extra leverage to push the bar upwards with both arms. Passed the old bolts through them
- swung the brake lines up so that the hole of their little metal bracket, lines up with the upper bolt hole that is used to attach the bar bracket to the axle mounting area.
- attached loosely the new brackets to the axle inserting the upper bolts ONLY through their upper tubes . This is necessary to prevent the lower bolts of the bracket from getting in the way of the bar, when it is swung up its final position by the axle. Remember to get the brake line’s bracket attached to that upper bolt too
- swung the bar up so that it rests between the bracket’s permanent bolts
- lined up the brackets lower tube to the holes on the axle's mounting structure, and inserted the lower bolts to compete the installation of the brackets to the axle, with the bar still between the bracket’s permanent bolts.
- greased the bushings and push them onto the bar right the the bracket location
- Insert the bushing clamps and fasten them to the brackets.
I used Lock-tite on all bolts involved.
Photos:
1. Old bar with its bracket and clamp. The wide plastic tie down of the brake line was cut and removed
2. New bracket with its tubes and permeant bolts, plus the new clamp and its rubber bushing.
3. The new and the old bars
4. The axle mounting area after the removal of the old bar and bracket. Note the brake line and its little support bracket loose.
5. The new bar mounted on the axle
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