Baby Shamu - 170 4x4

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Is it safer to secure the brackets through the frame rails? Not sure if it is doable for regular DIYer.
I believe the Mercedes Body Builder document specifically states to not drill or weld on the frame rails. Some installers will “wrap” the seat mounting bracket around the frame rail or the crossmembers for added strength. In my opinion a backing plate of sufficient size and thickness is adequate to secure the seats.
 

cheapren

Active member
I believe the Mercedes Body Builder document specifically states to not drill or weld on the frame rails. Some installers will “wrap” the seat mounting bracket around the frame rail or the crossmembers for added strength. In my opinion a backing plate of sufficient size and thickness is adequate to secure the seats.
Got you, thanks.
 

kfox

Ken
What an incredible build! Sure wish I found your thread before I started. I have nearly the identical layout and am contemplating using the 31" transit seats, but it looks like I'd only have about 15" between the seat and the kitchen cabinets. Do you happen to know how much room you have there?

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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
What an incredible build! Sure wish I found your thread before I started. I have nearly the identical layout and am contemplating using the 31" transit seats, but it looks like I'd only have about 15" between the seat and the kitchen cabinets. Do you happen to know how much room you have there?

View attachment 182170
16” between my Transit seat and the galley. Post #240 in this thread provides more details and pictures.
 

sue_ger

New member
After 2+ years of effort on my van conversion I thought it was time to document the work. I have been promising to start this build thread for the past few months. This build thread will hopefully move at a relatively fast pace given that the van is 95% complete. I will start off with an assortment of pictures to provide an idea of what the mostly completed van looks like before I get into additional build details in a mostly chronological order.





































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This is absolutely amazing!!! Would you, by any chance, have a kind of timetable, showing all the steps to a build, in order??
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
“This is absolutely amazing!!! Would you, by any chance, have a kind of timetable, showing all the steps to a build, in order??”

I do not have any detailed build schedule. Most of the build was from the bottom up starting with the undercarriage batteries and plumbing followed by interior flooring, seats, electrical, plumbing, and insulation. The build took me about two years and 2500 man hours to complete but the van was usable after the initial six months with plumbing, electrical, solar, cooktop, fridge, and a bed. The shower and much of the cabinetry came later. My build thread is mostly in chronological order so hopefully that will give you some idea.
 

Dann

Well-known member
PROPANE SYSTEM

My propane system consists of a Manchester 6813 tank which feeds a standard two stage propane regulator. The low pressure propane feeds my Force 10 two burner range and oven as well as my outdoor portable fire pit.



The Manchester 6813 propane tank is perfectly sized to fit under the Sprinter. The tank measures 10”D x 23”L. The space on my drivers side measures approximately 12”W x 13”H. This tank has a volume of almost 7 gallons and can reportedly hold 5.5 gallons of propane. I have managed to get a maximum of 5 gallons into the tank which has lasted me for well over a year before refilling.



Manchester Tank 6813 10 x 23 Horizontal 6.9 Gallon Capacity LP Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GY9UHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4fGhEbG80Y4FZ

On my 170 van this propane tank fit just behind my Isotemp water heater and forward of my driver’s side batteries. The gauge protection shield hangs down just below the van sheet metal providing just enough room for refilling at my local propane distributor.



I looked at a few 8” diameter propane tanks but most were longer and had a smaller volume. I modified the hanger brackets on each end of the tank to provide an optimum amount of up and down adjustment. The custom made brackets holding the tank are secured to the van crossmembers using 5/16” Rivnuts. The forward mount is shared with the Isotemp water heater.



To monitor the propane level I installed a snap on magnetic dial gauge. The tank comes with a built in level indicator. The magnetic dial has a two wire feed which is connected to my See Level tank monitoring system.



Manchester Tank G12653 LP Gas Tank - Snap-On Dial Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GY9UTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_O3GhEb1GX6PK7



I used a 10’ long high pressure propane hose to supply my regulator which is mounted to the backside of my slider door step. I wanted both high and low pressure propane available on the passenger side to feed my portable campfire pit. The hose is rated for 350psi.



Bayou Classic 10' Stainless Lpg Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXNYN9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_xzGhEb14CQ478

The regulator is a standard horizontal two stage propane unit.

Camco 59323 Horizontal Two Stage Propane Regulator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6TQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_tDGhEbW12WBGA

I used an assortment of low pressure hoses to supply my range and a quick release for the campfire pit. I installed a valve just upstream of the quick release just in case it leaks. The low pressure hose supplying my range follows a circuitous route thru the slider step and then up and over my water tank. The propane connection is accessible via the downdraft vent at the rear of the range.

Camco 59913 3' Propane Hose Assembly - 3/8" Female Flare x 3/8" Female Flare https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HG7Y7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wFGhEbB7D8KPY

GASPRO 3/8 Inch Natural Gas Quick Connect Fittings, LP Gas Propane Hose Quick Disconnect Kit, 100% Solid Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV458B1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5FGhEb00TG8W9

Homewerks VGV-1LH-T2B Premium Gas Ball Valve, Flare x Flare, Brass, 3/8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046HAANU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pHGhEb0DX41QH

I purchased a Camco portable fire pit and a 12’ long low pressure propane hose which allows me to position the fire pit along the passenger side. I have plans for an alternate high pressure propane connection for the fire pit in the future.



Camp Chef Gas Fire Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L4HSH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YQGhEbD5MWWZ5

DOZYANT 12 Feet 3/8 inch ID Natural Gas Grill Hose with Quick Connect Propane Gas Hose Assembly for Low Pressure Appliance -3/8 Female Pipe Thread x 3/8 Male Flare Quick Disconnect - CSA Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CLJFSIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_eQGhEb1JQ3HS5

The interior range/oven is a Force 10 two burner. It is very compact measuring 16”D x 19” W. The oven is 0.7 ft3. Made for marine use, the oven door retracts beneath the oven when open. I installed a stainless backsplash and a downdraft fan along the wall.













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I keep revisiting your build as I advance in mine
I need to install my regulator under the van similar to yours. How is yours held in place?
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
I keep revisiting your build as I advance in mine
I need to install my regulator under the van similar to yours. How is yours held in place?
I used some small screws thru the slider step well sheet metal. I then covered the sheet metal and screw heads with some thin foam and Loncoin. It has worked well but if I need to service the regulator I would have to peel back the Loncoin to remove the screws. Next time I might consider tack welding the small studs to make for easier removal of the regulator.
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
ROAD TRIP - OLYMPIC PENINSULA

Days - 33
Miles - 4750
MPG - 17

Route - San Diego, Morro Bay, Mendocino, Cresent City, Cape Lookout, Wynoochee Lake, Hoh Rain Forest, Sol Duc Hot Springs, Port Townsend, Fort Ebey, Deception Pass, Diablo Lake, Cascade River, West Seattle, Syringa ID, Lewiston ID, McKenzie OR, Bend OR, Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Lakes, and San Diego.

Combination of hiking, biking, and river rafting. Only van issue was a leaking high pressure propane hose which was quickly replaced in Seattle.

B2B97BA9-1D5D-48ED-9C96-A5FB8CCC083E.jpegC3DA1704-1EF3-4EAD-A985-B2287A0398FE.jpeg82B557F3-03D0-4526-B2FB-0368B12CEA4B.jpegED248D81-7E5D-4DC5-9E3F-376A9B9C43F7.jpeg07B885E4-AD41-466F-A06C-855564105CD0.jpeg
 
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ShaneHouston

Active member
Thank you.

The two person Transit seat measures 31” wide x 27” deep. The floor mounts are 22” long and 17” centerline. The floor mounts are offset 4” to one side depending on weather you choose to use the driver or passenger side seats available from the four seat rear Transit row.

My floor mounts are closer to the outer wall which aligns well for the floor bolts. The seat can be tilted forward or removed using the quick release latch.

The legroom is 33” from the front of seat to backside of driver pedestal. Better than Business Class.

I also made use of the space behind the seat by building a trapezoidal shaped mini-bar. The bottom of the mini-bar is my inverter. The cabinet is removable for access.









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I have the same 36” two seater Transit bench.How exactly did you mount the bench to the floor? I’m assuming you used the Ford rails for the seat correct?

Cheers
 

Dann

Well-known member
I'm working on my plumbing and I'm wondering about the size of the pipe that should go in my grey water tank. ( I have to install an inlet ) When you mention: "Both the sink and indoor shower gravity drain thru small Camco traps to the gray water tank via a combination of 3/4” and 1” flexible hose."

Do you mean that the 3/4" hose from the Drain Traps goes in a 1" hose and then to the grey water tank?
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
I have the same 36” two seater Transit bench.How exactly did you mount the bench to the floor? I’m assuming you used the Ford rails for the seat correct?

Cheers
I actually have the 31” wide seat, not the 36” wide seat. The mounting rails may be identical. I used 1/2” grade 5 bolts with 3/16 steel backing plates on the underside of the van.
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
I'm working on my plumbing and I'm wondering about the size of the pipe that should go in my grey water tank. ( I have to install an inlet ) When you mention: "Both the sink and indoor shower gravity drain thru small Camco traps to the gray water tank via a combination of 3/4” and 1” flexible hose."

Do you mean that the 3/4" hose from the Drain Traps goes in a 1" hose and then to the grey water tank?
You are correct. The Camco traps have 3/4” slip connections. The 3/4” plumbing drains connect under the van. After the 3/4” connection the plumbing is 1” to the gray water tank. I am currently planning to enlarge some of the 3/4” plumbing under the van to 1” and possibly enlarge the 1” to 1.25” for improved/faster drainage. However, the bilge tubing I used has been out of stock until recently at West Marine. I also plan to evaluate the use of a macerator pump combined with a 1.125” check valve. As the gray tank fills beyond the 50% level it can surge forward in the drain lines. A macerator pump combined with a check valve would allow 100% use of tank’s capacity. The macerator pump would only operate when the fresh water pump is energized. Another option is a marine style shower sump, but I am concerned it has too many potential failure points. I will update this thread once the modify are complete.
 

Dann

Well-known member
You are correct. The Camco traps have 3/4” slip connections. The 3/4” plumbing drains connect under the van. After the 3/4” connection the plumbing is 1” to the gray water tank. I am currently planning to enlarge some of the 3/4” plumbing under the van to 1” and possibly enlarge the 1” to 1.25” for improved/faster drainage. However, the bilge tubing I used has been out of stock until recently at West Marine. I also plan to evaluate the use of a macerator pump combined with a 1.125” check valve. As the gray tank fills beyond the 50% level it can surge forward in the drain lines. A macerator pump combined with a check valve would allow 100% use of tank’s capacity. The macerator pump would only operate when the fresh water pump is energized. Another option is a marine style shower sump, but I am concerned it has too many potential failure points. I will update this thread once the modify are complete.
Thanks for the quick reply

Do you have a picture of how they join together with the 1" hose?
Do you think I should install a 1.5" inlet on my grey thank ?
Emptying the tank itself should not be an issue. The tank outlet is 3".

One more question: Is your fresh water tank drain under the van through the van floor? If so, what's the impact in the winter?

Thanks again
 

Attachments

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Do you have a picture of how they join together with the 1" hose?
Do you think I should install a 1.5" inlet on my grey thank ?
Emptying the tank itself should not be an issue. The tank outlet is 3".

One more question: Is your fresh water tank drain under the van through the van floor? If so, what's the impact in the winter?
No picture but the 3/4” drains combine at a 3/4” Tee. Downstream of the Tee is a 3/4” x 1” adapter. Both plastic parts from West Marine.

I think 1” inlet to your gray tank is sufficient. 1.125 or 1.25” is better. 1.5” might be on the large size for the inlet. My drains do slow down some once the inlet to the gray tank is submerged, thus the idea of using a macerator pump and check valve.

i have a 1.5” outlet with a manual valve and also a 3/4” motorized outlet valve so I don’t get dirty.

I do not have a fresh water tank drain. I can drain the tank and plumbing, slowly, using my Isotemp pressure relief or by disconnecting the flex hose upstream of my Shurflo pump. But the easiest way is to just pump the water into the drain via the sink or shower.

8895C753-FACD-4DB7-9E5E-2E622BDEA545.jpeg
 

Dann

Well-known member
No picture but the 3/4” drains combine at a 3/4” Tee. Downstream of the Tee is a 3/4” x 1” adapter. Both plastic parts from West Marine.

I think 1” inlet to your gray tank is sufficient. 1.125 or 1.25” is better. 1.5” might be on the large size for the inlet. My drains do slow down some once the inlet to the gray tank is submerged, thus the idea of using a macerator pump and check valve.

i have a 1.5” outlet with a manual valve and also a 3/4” motorized outlet valve so I don’t get dirty.

I do not have a fresh water tank drain. I can drain the tank and plumbing, slowly, using my Isotemp pressure relief or by disconnecting the flex hose upstream of my Shurflo pump. But the easiest way is to just pump the water into the drain via the sink or shower.

View attachment 188374
Thanks again for you insights.

This fresh water drain valve issue was giving me a hard time. I didn't think about simply using the pump to drain the system when needed.
BTW I will also install a motorized valve for the grey water tank.
I have a 3" Valterra motorized valve for the drain which can also be operated manually if needed.
 

Attachments

Airtime

Well-known member
Thanks for posting planned updates to your plumbing based on experience using it. Timely for me... I'm finally about to mount and plumb my tanks and will follow your updates with interest.
 

Dann

Well-known member
SHOWER INSTALL


To support the walls of the shower I installed 1.5” aluminum angle between the factory roof crossmembers. The angle was notched at each crossmember and bolted using 5/16 rivnuts. This angle provided support for additional aluminum angle that would bolt directly to the 3/4 thick walls that would extend above the ceiling.
What did you use to notch the center part of the aluminum angles?
The ends are easy. I'm having a hard time with the middle ones
 

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