For those that have spent lots of time with 8020, is it feasible to make a mitered corner held together with a bolt that screws into a taped center hole on one piece and through a bored hole on other? Guessing probably using an allen head bolt. Thanks!
Probably a variety, based on accessibility. I may double-up on anchor connectors in critical locations.(what joint method are you using? - 8020 has several ways to make a joint and their strength and stiffness vary dramatically)
I will add them where I can... Freshwater tank & chest fridge will be in the way in the two dinettes, but there will at least be room for some supports inside and on top of the wheel well cabinets, and on top of the dinette bench we'd use most often (the bench will the fridge would be impossible to have any).Are there any supports front to back?
Anchor connectors are stronger / stiffer IF you use the double sided ones. https://8020.net/3090.html Otherwise the anchor connector is only strong / stiff in one direction, so you need to be careful how you load it if those are concerns. The end connectors are good all around connectors and much cheaper and tapping is easier than a milling operation. But each has its place.@99sport, thank you!
Probably a variety, based on accessibility. I may double-up on anchor connectors in critical locations.
I understand end-connectors are stronger, but would prefer not to have holes showing... Need to do a CAD design.
I will add them where I can... Freshwater tank & chest fridge will be in the way in the two dinettes, but there will at least be room for some supports inside and on top of the wheel well cabinets, and on top of the dinette bench we'd use most often (the bench will the fridge would be impossible to have any).
Thanks!
Thanks, I actually meant to say counter-boredI used miter joints on my toilet lid, to join I used 8020 internal fastener. Your proposed method will work, but bolt will be exposed unless the bolt side piece is counterbored for bolts head.
Those are not miter joints are they? But I like that fastener for other 90 corners.Do you mean like this?
I will, soon... I'm still trying to work out a few critical dimensions so that 2 folded Radmini-4 eBikes will fit in the 'garage'.If you can post a sketch with dimensions, even hand drawn, we can provide some comments.
Excellent!Regarding buckling on a dinette, I just cant see how you will have any issues. As an example, the structure in the following picture is all 10 series. I can quite literally do pull ups from the bar above the shower circled in red (35" span) and support all my weight at the center of the span in the cabinet in front of the water heater (29" span). Thanks to the extremely rigid end connections, the beam deflection is trivial and the very slender columns do not buckle.
An orthogonal view would be super helpful. Also weights of the various components (fridge, stove, etc).Okay, here's an overhead view of just the 80/20.
The dashed lines across the rear are the bed support beams spanning the space between the two wheel well cabinets.
View attachment 172754
Let me know if you can't read my writing; I know it's terrible.
Thanks!
Hi, unfortunately that's way beyond my drawing skills, but I will do a CAD model eventually.An orthogonal view would be super helpful. Also weights of the various components (fridge, stove, etc).
I'll probably use either Ikea Skorva rails into T-Nuts, or 1030 8020.How do you plan to span the 6 foot width of the bed? That is the only span that is actually structurally demanding. If you are planning on an unsupported (without columns in the middle) span over the 6 foot width of the bed with 1010 series that is likely to be problematic.
The cabinets will be attached to the walls and floor.Also, if the ends of the bed are permanently / rigidly attached to an 8020 structure bolted to the walls it will make a huge difference
AgreedBasically, do your homework / calcs on the bed span as there is a potential to undersize the beams there. If in doubt, make the section height larger for that bed span.
30-35 gallon, freshwater. I will strap it to the van as well, with plywood on the longer sides.How big of a water tank do you plan? Water is really heavy, so if you have a large tank
Agree implementation would be challenging. You'd have to score the tank all the way around in a couple of planes to create a weakspot that would fail in a crash. Then you'd have to worry about low cycle fatigue causing a leak at one of those spots from bouncing down the road for thousands of miles. And you'd need at least 2 tanks - one to test and prove the failure mechanism - but probably it would take multiple trys / tanks to get it dialed in and workingBTW, I've been thinking that a safer way to handle water might be for the tank to be sheared in a collision, releasing the water.
I know an impact with water at 60mph is still very dangerous, but it's better than a more rigid tank or cabinet flying.
Thoughts?
I was looking over your build guide for overheads and was wondering why use a half profile on the inside of the headliner instead of bolting the PVC shims and fiberglass angles directly to the wall with rivnuts? Sorry if I’m missing something.Here's how I did it: https://ourkaravan.com/attaching-cabinet-hardware-to-8020/
I was concerned about the cabinet bottoms not ending up level. The wall has about an 8.5 degree slope where the plus nuts would be mounted, and of course the bolt will have to enter at an 8.5 degree angle as well.I was looking over your build guide for overheads and was wondering why use a half profile on the inside of the headliner instead of bolting the PVC shims and fiberglass angles directly to the wall with rivnuts? Sorry if I’m missing something.
I didn’t consider the bolt angle, that’s a good point. I’ll think on it for a bit and see if anything clicks, thanks.I was concerned about the cabinet bottoms not ending up level. The wall has about an 8.5 degree slope where the plus nuts would be mounted, and of course the bolt will have to enter at an 8.5 degree angle as well.
The method I used works because the T-nut inside the slot of the 80/20 (behind the headliner) has the ability to absorb that angle. That's not to say your method won't work, but that was my thought.
In fact I was planning to mount mine the way you described, but ended up copying @GeorgeRa because I believe he had similar concerns.
Hi, I'm not sure it's my picture you're referring to, but the Standard End Fasteners need a hole drilled through one piece to access the screw, and the other piece needs the end tapped.hi rvbarry. i am a 8020 newbie. i see your pics of the anchor connector, but cant seem to figure out how you tighten it? it appears you need to tap the end to accept bolt, but after that i can not visualize.
will be doing a minimal pop up camper build out soon , with 8020, but am starting with a basement sink cabinet to see how things come together.
thx
go
thx RV. i subsequently went to catalog, and figured the anchor system out. i am going to be building some simple shelf systems and was leaning towards the 'L' type bracket to connect extrusions. will look into these anchor fasteners. do u just use a handheld tapper to tap the ends of the extrusion?Hi, I'm not sure it's my picture you're referring to, but the Standard End Fasteners need a hole drilled through one piece to access the screw, and the other piece needs the end tapped.
There are videos on that as well as the anchor connectors, at
Learn Free - 8020 T-Slot Sample Kit | 80/20 Extrusions & Building Systems
Try out 8020's t-slot framing system with a free sample kit that includes two aluminum profiles, an end fastener, anchor fastener, and hex wrench. Build your idea with 8020!8020.net
You can also order a free sample kit on that page which includes a couple 15-series extrusions and connectors.