These are the results of the test. It looks like they average out six attemps
TEST SMOKE SMOKE TEMP
K(1/m) Min Max
1 0.76 32 42
2 1.10 33 48
3 0.64 35 46
4 0.60 35 46
5 0.63 35 50
6 0.61 35 48
Oil Temperature: 85 deg C
Average Reading: 0.61 1/m FAIL
Test Applied: Plate value (Limit: 0.50 1/m)
Plate Value: 0.50 1/m
Drift Value: 0.00 1/m
I found out that the Plate value is the one printed on the step well plate from the factory.
I must admit, I don't know how I missed all the press about the on coming stricter
MOT test that started in May 2018
Government Website:
https://www.gov.uk/government/publi...or-mot-testers/diesel-vehicle-emission-limits
Wow how did you miss that??
OK obviously I don't have a scanner on your van, so using my general approach to resolving the E test failures here in Colorado more or less mirrors closely what my brother does in Gloucestershire.
Firstly take into account that the sensors on the engine set the base fueling so any appreciable drift will cause excess smoke emission that has to be controlled by the DPF etc.
The max tolerance across ALL the readings in KOEO condition is 25HPa.
Once I see more than 10 HPa I focus on why.
Now such things as mild turbo boost pressure leaks, secure and not leaking fresh air intake pipe & compensator ring connector at the turbo will affect MAF readings. In many instances can be seen to be down in flow when the engine is running and air flow observed.
Often my first looksee is MAF air flow in Mg/Hub. If I see 200ish readings the engine will run OK & not throw a code, but the figure should be more in the 400 ish plus range. Put that right for example and you will have an instant measurable right foot response in engine performance.
Another step is to look at the engine OBD2 monitors a "must do" in any case whether you are working on petrol or diesel engines & repairing E problems. A cheap reader like a Launch C reader is great for this. My first port of plug in diagnostics in any diagnostic check before bringing the expensiveness "mamu" scanners to bear. Is any monitor out or running in inclusive--a direct pointer to a potential engine management & emissions driveability issue in the making.
https://launchtechusa.com/cr5plus/
Now a few paragraphs on internal engine carbon build up.
The flow into the engine is biased to the left side head as you open the bonnet.
After about 150,00 miles, the inlet manifolds and porting get heavily coated in carbon and sludge deposits. A professional upper cylinder purge can be very beneficial to opening up the engine to allow it to breath properly as it once did drastically improving combustion and cleaning up the exhaust gases. I use the BG method, which also adds a bottle of carbon stripper to the engine oil and used during the 1 hour idle purge operation. Obvious then an oil change with filter is absolutely necessary because it really rips carbon out of the engine being a phosphorus based nasty chemical.
See if you can find a shop in your area to do this.
This is what I use with some astonishing results:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KQEklLG_D0
All the best & i hope this will help.
Dennis
vic
