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Old 12-28-2018, 12:35 AM   #41
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

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Originally Posted by gohusaberg View Post
Exactly. That's what I'm saying. I want it to do what it's designed to do. That's why we paid $120K for a brand new RV with bells and whistles. Amazingly, the darn thing is still working properly 90% of the time. I am finally getting around to ordering the new board now because I have had to replace a melted 20A fuse 3 times now which requires me to take the whole thing apart. I have been talking to the ARP guy, Paul. I will likely just spend the money and order the entire upgraded board and converter from them. It 100% fixes the problem. Thank you Winnebago and Norcold for selling me something that you knew had years of documented issues. (That's where the attitude part came from) LOL
Paul modified my board by removing the fuse replacing it with an external 25 amp fuse and external hookup to the relay. Mine burned the 12v connectors where they plugged into the LP igniter. Fire hazard. Just went on a 300 mile trip all is well now.
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:52 AM   #42
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

That is the right way to do it! Caution to DIYers though - this trick will not work as well on the earlier version of the board because the board has a hall effect sensor to detect the heater current. It will throw an error if this sensor is not spoofed somehow. Easiest way is to run heavy wire under the sensor.
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:35 AM   #43
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

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Originally Posted by rollerbearing View Post
That is the right way to do it! Caution to DIYers though - this trick will not work as well on the earlier version of the board because the board has a hall effect sensor to detect the heater current. It will throw an error if this sensor is not spoofed somehow. Easiest way is to run heavy wire under the sensor.
Rollerbearing - I received this “correction” from Paul at ARP

The reason we wire the control the way we do is so that the current sensor is inline with the new relay.
All of the controls have current sensors, the only difference between the controls is the display and the way they made the igniter for the LP gas.

Please post this answer and a link to our home page: https://www.arprv.com/
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Old 12-29-2018, 02:22 PM   #44
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

Gotcha - I looked pretty hard at your board and couldn't see the hall sensor.

Also, I made an assumption that the external relay had the high current power going directly to it and that it was wired directly to the heater. Bad assumption - when I traced the wiring it was clear that the power goes to the board, then to the relay, back to the board and then to the heater connector.

So yes it would preserve the current path needed by the hall sensor (that is evidently still on the board).
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Old 12-29-2018, 03:38 PM   #45
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

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Originally Posted by rollerbearing View Post
Gotcha - I looked pretty hard at your board and couldn't see the hall sensor.

Also, I made an assumption that the external relay had the high current power going directly to it and that it was wired directly to the heater. Bad assumption - when I traced the wiring it was clear that the power goes to the board, then to the relay, back to the board and then to the heater connector.

So yes it would preserve the current path needed by the hall sensor (that is evidently still on the board).
Here is how the board is rewired

Relay the way it is wired now.

Black is the relay coil ground.
Red is the relay coil power.
The yellow heavy gauge wire without the fuse going to the relay goes to the 12VDC heater + on the circuit board.
The yellow heavy gauge wire with the fuse goes to the HC 12VDC connection on the circuit board, but within the circuit board there is an amp measuring circuit. If this amp measuring circuit is not inline with this wire, you get the error message. This is why the entire HC 12VDC wires cannot be off of the circuit board.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:04 AM   #46
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

Hey everyone,
Though this thread has been dormant for a while, I found it to be very useful, so thanks all! I thought I'd add my personal findings here since there is some uniqueness. I own a 2014 Winnebago Via with 24k miles and I recently started experiencing problems with DC mode on my Norcold 3150. In my case, the front LCD display panel would start to blink after some run time in DC mode. The blink was in a "mostly-off" way, meaning the power appeared to cut out, and then in 1 to 3 seconds, it would very briefly come back on, and then go back off. This made it difficult to actually turn the unit off or change the mode away from DC via the front panel controls. You had to time the control inputs with the brief on-state.

What I have concluded is that (as Showkey mentioned earlier) the low quality spade connectors used for the 20A fuse (F1) were the root of my problems. But I'll take it a bit further to explain the display blinking. As shown my first photo (01), the 20A fuse (removed from it's female spade connectors and sitting on top of the black relay) is discolored from the heating. The fuse leads were getting hot enough to melt the plastic framework (not shown in pics) that surrounds the five male spade connectors that are directly below the fuse, but not hot enough to actually melt/blow the fuse. I'm going to guess that the plastic (PVC?) framework was reaching temperatures of more than 200C to melt as it did. What this means to me is that F2 (the square yellow 1.1A PTC resettable fuse that is directly below F1, and is in series with the low current logic supply voltage) was reaching EVEN HIGHER temperatures. So my theory is that the heating from F1 was raising the temperature of F2 sufficiently to lower it's trip threshold to something below the system's normal current draw in DC mode. The result is that the LCD front panel will go blank from power loss. This in turn cuts the black DC heater relay off and allows things to cool. Ultimately, this keeps the temperature of F2 at a reduced trip current threshold which leads to the cycling of the unit's power until it is manually turned off or changed to a different mode.

My solution: Since my Via already has a 20A fuse (in the RV's fuse box) that exclusively feeds the fridge's DC high-current circuit, I elected to ELIMINATE the on-board 20A fuse altogether, as the on-board fuse provides no real function IN THIS CASE. Again, this is because my RV already has a dedicated 20A fuse feeding this circuit. I bypassed the fuse as shown in the second and third (02 & 03) photos using 12AWG solid copper from Romex household wiring in order to minimize resistance in this path and also to provide some heat spreading, in case the PCB traces were marginally sized as discussed elsewhere in this thread.

Test results: I installed the board without the protective enclosure and operated the fridge in DC mode with its doors open (to keep the heater running) until temperatures settled. What I found was that the PCB area of F2 (the most burnt area of the PCB - marked with a yellow "B" in the third pic) now experienced only about 10F temperature rise (using an IR probe) above the neighboring (cool) areas - so this seems just fine. In fact, the area marked with a yellow "A" is now the hottest spot on the PCB in DC mode - it sees about 30F rise. Maybe this is due to the (black) relay's COIL power dissipation when energized (DC heater is on), since the temperature rise disappears in the LP/AC modes, and the DC heater traces do not appear to be routed up in that area. Either way, it's not a newly-hot area, and I don't see any thermal issues with this fix.

Hope this provides a little more insight to those interested - or at least to those that are dealing with this version of the power board. I know nothing about the newer version(s). Makes me think that simply finding better spade connectors would be an acceptable fix. The 20A fuse in my Via's fuse box (feeding this same circuit) does not get warm at all. In my case (having a dedicated 20A fuse in the coach), I think F1 only reduces the system's reliability.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:20 AM   #47
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

Our 3150 (same generation) experiences the exact same symptoms and although we suspected the 20 due to other information we found all we need to do now is figure out how to remove the board to make the modification, and determine if our '14 View has an external 20.
Thanks for information and such a great write up!
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:52 PM   #48
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

Thanks, Winnie. Winnebago has the wiring diagrams on their website for free download, though they can be difficult to interpret. My fuse box is clearly marked for the 20A refrigerator fuse, as well as a 3A for the low-current circuit. I would add that if your View's fuse is greater than 20A, then there is some added risk to eliminating the PCB's fuse (and I'd think twice about doing it - especially if the larger fuse is feeding more than the fridge and cannot be downsized to 20A), as you are increasing the maximum current that the board could experience in a failure situation. Finally, once you think you have located the fuse, put your fridge in DC mode with the coach's 20A fuse pulled - you should get a flashing battery sign in the front panel, indicating that you have pulled the correct fuse.
Best of luck!
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Old 10-16-2019, 06:23 PM   #49
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Via25Q View Post
Thanks, Winnie. Winnebago has the wiring diagrams on their website for free download, though they can be difficult to interpret. My fuse box is clearly marked for the 20A refrigerator fuse, as well as a 3A for the low-current circuit. I would add that if your View's fuse is greater than 20A, then there is some added risk to eliminating the PCB's fuse (and I'd think twice about doing it - especially if the larger fuse is feeding more than the fridge and cannot be downsized to 20A), as you are increasing the maximum current that the board could experience in a failure situation. Finally, once you think you have located the fuse, put your fridge in DC mode with the coach's 20A fuse pulled - you should get a flashing battery sign in the front panel, indicating that you have pulled the correct fuse.
Best of luck!
Thanks again, for the additional information. We will report back if we find the same solution works in our View.
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:59 PM   #50
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Default Re: Winnebago View Norcold Problem - Why?

Per Via25Q method, I just did the same thing. And, the fuse was black on one side and the board darkened, but the system still worked, but I am sure it was on it's last leg.

Seems to be working just fine, so far, as I tested it in it's various modes.

Thanks Via25Q.
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