Mod Repair: Securing AC Cover

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Several folks have lost their original air conditioner cover. The problem is that the six cover screws holding down the cover are screwed through a very thin area of the cover. Over time, the thin area screwhole continues to enlarge until the screw is no longer holding onto the cover.

(Note: if the winds are so bad that the fan and fan motor blow off, these repair ideas probably won't do much.)

There have been several actual and proposed repairs. I've listed some of them, but if you remember more, or have better ideas, please list.

1. Glue washers on the top and bottom sides of the AC cover around the screwholes. Choose washers which fit the space and the screws. The washers will spread out the force of the screws (but the cover could just break around the larger washer area).

2. Add tape (strapping or other?) around the washers/screwholes to spread out the force.

Think someone may have added fiberglass patch around the screwholes?

3. Use DualLock or Velcro straps to top cover and to black bottom portion of air conditioner. Use exterior-rated versions.

(TV Grips ThumbLocks would be great if exterior rated. One thumblock on top and one on bottom with a strap between the two thumblocks. If someone has something similar, that'd be great).

4. Someone may have mentioned bungee cord(s) across top with hooks into side of bottom black portion (mesh area). Bungee cords can be dangerous (wear eye protection). Also, may not last long if exposed constantly to sun.

5. Some other type of belt/strap around ac cover.
 

onemanvan

Active member
Indeed - the plastic is very thin around the holes - probably due to the manufacturing process. I thought it would be cheap insurance to reinforce the area around the holes with fiberglass. I attached a picture of the product I used. I cut up small patches - 4 square inches each, mixed up 2 oz of resin with about twenty drops of hardener in the plastic lid that came on the can, soaked each piece in resin and applied it to the area around the hole. The red streaks are from the Sharpie marker I used to outline the fiberglass patches before cutting. I wasn't going for pretty - just maximum reinforcement with minimal materials. The overflow was intentional - a little added strength from the resin minus the glass mat. This product did not melt the plastic - it bonded very well.
 

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Wasaabi

Sprinter Westfalia #133
Good call, folks! Let my experience of losing the cover, fan, and plastic fan housing be a lesson to all. These covers are old and cracking by now, a disaster waiting to happen. Once two of the bolt holes by the front crack, the wind gets under the cover and the rest pop right off.
 

Pnwsquid

Active member
Here was my preventative solution:



Posting from a mobile decide so I apologize for link rather than impeded photo. This are zip tie anchors. I've used them in some very demanding applications and with the right tape, they are extremely solid. Using 3m vhb.

I recently fixed the 12v motor and got my AC working. Hopefully I won't need back under the cover soon, but if I do it's quick and easy to clip the ties and re-apply. I put 8 of these on in total, 2 on each side.
 

220629

Well-known member
Depending upon the cover profile, another possible solution would be to use longer screws with stainless steel fender washers so that the stresses are higher up and distributed.

On my Jayco Travel Trailer A/C cover I noticed that the recessed cover screws often had water pooled in the recesses. I filled the recesses with Dicor self leveling lap sealant. My intention was to keep the water from pooling, but it must also add some strength as it is bonded to the shape and the screw heads. Not to mention providing protection from the sun/UV rays.

The Dicor sealant can be dug out to access the screws should cover removal become necessary.

The sun can be brutal on those plastic covers.

:2cents: vic
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Could not open Squid's photo but gave me an idea.

Took long plastic ties and ran through the 4 middle vent openings in front portion of AC cover and through the black bottom AC housing--the ties slid between the black plastic and the mesh.

Four ties total at the front. Could cut into AC cover over time.

Will need something else for rest of AC cover.

But at least for now, quick fix for front AC cover end.
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Oh, should probably replace zip ties every year if exposed to sun.

Just about all the black and white zip ties for my solar wiring on roof had broken after 2 years or so.
 

220629

Well-known member
Oh, should probably replace zip ties every year if exposed to sun.

Just about all the black and white zip ties for my solar wiring on roof had broken after 2 years or so.
Black cable ties generally do hold up to UV rays better than other colors. I have noticed that all black colored ties are not created equal. Certainly the Harbor Freight cable ties of any color are at the low end of the spectrum. I don't even bother buying them anymore.

Off the top of my head Ty-Rap, T&B, Panduit are some good brands.

The information here basically agrees with my experiences.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154223

Maybe just a trucker bungee or two stretched over the top of the plastic RV cover? Some ss picture hanging wire can be used to provide an attachment loop to adjust length/tension. A trucker bungee should hold up for many years. Easy to remove when necessary.

Added:
Another trucker bungee option. Remove the steel hooks and thread a nylon or Dacron cord through the hook holes. A screwdriver tip can be used to force a fairly stout cord through the hole. The cords can then be used to tie the bungee into place. I have used loops of cord on trucker bungees to avoid the steel hooks from scratching things. You just need to know how to tie good knots, or if not so skilled, then just tie many of them.

vic
 
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CaptnALinTiverton

xT1N Westfalia
I previously posted May 22, 2013 on the Yahoo forum:

I replaced my rooftop AC hardware, vacuumed out bays (old peeled paint and debris), drilled drain holes in corners (carefully protecting rooftop from drill) and screened over fan using coarse over fine screens. It was a mess in there! I got stainless rubber backed fender washers from nearby fastener store and matching SS bolts (as I recall, metric). I left the steel nuts in since they were embedded so I applied anti-cease compound so they wouldn't gall from mixing metals. - - - Funny guy at fastener store just suggested these washers without even knowing about application; they were perfect for it.

AL
 

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