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Old 09-17-2015, 06:57 AM   #1
casmith32
 
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Default 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

After months and months of research, mining this site, and purchasing my van, I'm finally getting to kicking off the build thread in the hopes that I can contribute to the community and give back a bit. I've enjoyed digging through everyone's ideas and builds; It's helped me quite a bit thus far, and hoping that will continue with feed back on my build. I’ll jump right into it:




Intro:

The patient: 2015 Sprinter 170” Cargo High-roof ; 4 cyl, 7 Speed, 2WD
Location: Colorado

Notable Options:
  • Factory Swivel Seats
  • Heated seats
  • Multi-function Steering Wheel with Cruise Control
  • Radio-Prep Package (speakers, antenna, basic harness/No CANBUS)
  • Alloy Wheels
  • PSM
  • A/C
  • Parktronic
  • Factory Hitch

I ordered the van in early 2015, and it arrived late May. I’d contemplated back and forth between the 2WD and the 4WD option, as I had an opportunity to grab one of the available 4x4 orders at my local dealer (dealers had limited orders for 4x4s initially). I struggled with the decision, as I travel off pavement quite a bit for camping and mountain bike adventures, with multiple trips into, and over the Colorado Rockies; Winter brings snow and trips to the mountain resorts with friends.

Naturally one would think a 4x4 is the ticket - but after multiple discussions with my dealer, friends who have sprinters here in CO, and the local resort transport company, Colorado Mountain Express. CME, passed up going with 4x4’s citing they get great mileage with their 2WD and good snow tires, and have little to no issues. Couple that with the fact that the 4x4 would cost me upwards of $8K more, I decided to stick with the 2WD 7sp model. We’ll see if I regret the decision or not...

Goals:
  • Adventure/Camper Van with modular configurations to accommodate all my toys and support working remotely ( IT-related )
  • Full Camper kit - Solar, kitchen galley, toy storage in rear with multiple configurations possible, hot water, outdoor shower, etc.
  • Occasional 2-3 day stints in camping destinations off the grid, sometimes in light off-road/snowy destinations.
  • Transport, SAG, etc for my small bike biz


The basics:

Electrical:
  • Goal #1: Accommodate auto-switching between House Battery power, Shore power, and Solar power ;
  • Goal #2: Charging via Alternator while driving, Solar, and shore power when parked.
  • Estimated Loads (12v):
    • 12v/120v Fridge/Freezer
    • (2) MaxxFan Delux 7800 Fans
    • (8) LED lighting overhead
    • (1) LED light strip for Fiamma Awning - outside
    • (2) LED light cubes - rear exterior
    • Laptop Computer
    • Chargers for phone, tablet, etc
    • Water pump
    • air compressor
    • Heater (Espar D5 w/radiator fan or Webasto Dual Top)
  • Estimated Loads (120v): (2) 120v Duplex outlets:
  • (1) Duplex for Kitchen Galley ; (1) rear of van for auxiliary use ;
    • Induction Hotplate
    • Hot Water Kettle
  • Batteries: I’ve decided to go with L-ION ; GUESStimated initial need : 100 A/hr.


Plumbing
  • 15-20 gal fresh water tank; no grey water, just drain outside for sink.
  • Kitchen Galley sink
  • External Shower (showers, and washing gear)
  • Hot water via Espar or Webasto setup

Climate Control / Ventilation
  • (2) MaxxFan Delux 7800
  • Espar D5 (similar to Rixen setup) or Webasto Dual Top (if I can find one!)

Utility
  • air compressor mounted under van for my toys and tools.
  • Awning
  • External LED lighting
  • Bike/gear storage in rear
  • Modular bed, benches, and tool cabinet;

Getting Started....

First order of business was to get some better kicks on the Sprinter Can... something more suitable for some all terrain goodness...Immediately pulled off the stock tires (who wants them?) and put on some BFG A/Ts.


Then I had VanWorks (Ft. Collins, CO) install a vented window on the driver's side, as well as a 3-person OEM bench seat in a special location for me.


Next up - Stereo System...gotta have some music!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2015-170.jpg (44.1 KB, 2341 views)
File Type: jpg BFG-A:Ts.jpg (40.1 KB, 2215 views)
File Type: jpg vented-window-install.jpg (41.7 KB, 2249 views)

Last edited by casmith32; 09-17-2015 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 09-17-2015, 12:34 PM   #2
aramid
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

Your links don't work.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:21 PM   #3
casmith32
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by aramid View Post
Your links don't work.
thanks - fixed
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Old 09-18-2015, 05:35 AM   #4
bajamike
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

you went bigger or stock on the tires ?...
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:18 PM   #5
BikeJozz
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by casmith32 View Post
...as well as a 3-person OEM bench seat in a special location for me...
Would like to see "special" location.

Quote:
Originally Posted by casmith32 View Post
Charging via Alternator while driving, Solar, and shore power when parked.
Why not charge with both sources when driving?

Last edited by BikeJozz; 09-18-2015 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:16 PM   #6
casmith32
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

bajamike - I think went with BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2 245/75R16 - the stock size,

Quote:
Originally Posted by bajamike View Post
you went bigger or stock on the tires ?...

Last edited by casmith32; 09-19-2015 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:59 PM   #7
Sutherngintelmen
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

Looking forward to your write up, one day (hopefully soon!) i am going to do a very similar build.
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:39 AM   #8
casmith32
 
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Default 2015 170” DirtDevil Build: Stereo System Install

Next in the build…I need a stereo system! When I ordered the van, I knew from the start that I’d be putting in a custom stereo and speakers. So I decided to order it w/out a stereo system and save myself $350; also known as the “Radio Prep Package (Code ER0)”. To clear things up, contrary to what some folks think, this is not the "radio delete package”. The differentiation is that the radio prep package is everything except the actual radio - per the 2015 Sprinter upfit guide (pg 60):

CODE ER0 Preparation for Radio Retrofit Pre-installation for radio
Pre-wiring (12 V) for retrofitting a (commercially available) radio, plus short-range interference suppression and a flexible stub antenna on roof. Chassis Cab and Cargo Vans have 5 front loudspeakers (EL8), Passenger Vans come with 5 front and 8 rear loudspeakers (EL9).


And, now here it the important part that I didn’t pay attention to initially, but it’s important:

"NOTE: The pre-installation for radio does not support CAN/MOST technology. After market radios will not work with highline steering wheel and cluster. Additional wiring must be retrofitted in order to retrofit a factory supplied radio. Without this wiring, functions such as recognition of the key position (radio continues to operate after the ignition key has been removed etc.) as well as control of the radio via the multifunction steering wheel and display of radio information in the instrument cluster are not supported."

That’s all fine and dandy if you are just installing the aftermarket stereo, but if you also want the steering wheel controls integrated, you’ll need CANBUS access…more on that later...

The Radio Delete package basically doesn’t have anything, not even the wiring or antenna… So if you read this to help decide, make sure you get either a radio installed, or the Radio Prep Package.

The System

I ordered the following components to complete my system:
  • Head Unit - Pioneer AVIC-7100NEX
  • Front Component Speakera: JBL GTO608C 2-Way
  • Rear Speaker - JBL 6.5 GTO628
  • Radio Harness - Metra 70-1784
  • DIN kit - SCOSCHE CR1294B Installation Kit
  • Steering Wheel Control - Axxess SWC-1
  • Reverse Camera - Rear View Safety Third-Light Camera for Sprinter Vans

Diagrammed my wiring and placement of everything (see attached), then went to town ripping up my brand new van !!!

Disassembling the Dash

Plenty of other posts here on dash removal, so I’ll keep this to just the more complex parts that I didn’t see anyone else post…Definitely get a good set of panel removal tools - can be found cheap on Amazon or Ebay.
  1. Removed the center trim panel around the radio compartment, start at the bottom - pops off pretty easily. Then the adjacent vent panels; If you have the lid on the center console make sure you lift it up first.
  2. Removed all the screws underneath the trim panel, and the corresponding DIN insert, and hazard control panel and A/C control panel to open up the entire center of the dash.
  3. Removed the tweeter covers, then unscrewed the top lid and vent covers and removed them; you have to slightly pull them to release, then lift them out. Before you can pull them out completely you need to disconnect the tweeters.
  4. Then removed the A-pillar covers and went ahead and removed the glove box, floor covers, and then bottom center panel, to enable access to the cable channel that runs beneath the seat pedestals.

In the end, this is what my van looked like when I was done...
Cabin-removed.jpg
CtrConsPanelRemoved.jpg
GloveBox-Removed.jpg

Next up - removing the door panels...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Stereo-Wiring-2.pdf (162.2 KB, 262 views)
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:55 AM   #9
casmith32
 
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Default Re: 2015 170” DirtDevil Build

Disassembling the Door panels for Speaker wiring


Next up, I removed the door lock covers, carefully removed the covers over the handle and door latch, then began to pry off the door panels. A short and a long panel pry tool is useful here; the kind that look like a screwdriver
The longer one is useful for prying the middle panel anchor up. You don’t need to have these but it makes it easier to get the door panel off w/out breaking the green door panel anchors; Available cheap on Amazon...

IMG_4129 (1).jpg
DoorPanelLockcover.jpg
DoorPanelRemoved.jpg
Lock-lever-mech.jpg
After prying the door panel off, disconnected the window control plugs, and the door latch mechanism, which is the yellow end piece. Simply pops out, then angles down to come out of the door latch.

DoorPanel1.jpg
Disconnect the electrical plugs and the panel is off the door...
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Old 10-07-2015, 01:03 AM   #10
casmith32
 
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Default 2015 170” DirtDevil Build - Stereo Install

With the door panels off I proceeded to insulate them with Thinsulate...

Needed to disconnect the rubber wiring conduit between the door and the body. Made it easier to fish the speaker wire through the door. Took some time to get it to release; had to work it from the back side, in the door. The alternative is to try and work the end back on to the grommet, but that looked harder to me.
DoorWireConduit.jpg

With Dash and door panels exposed, I ran speaker wire from tweeter locations and doors, to the radio location; crossovers mounted under the radio. I also ran speaker wire, and RCA cables down the wiring trough to under the passenger seat, where I’ll mount the amp. Wires were ran in wiring loom. Also removed the headliner in prep for insulating and sound deadening.
DP3-thinsulated.jpg

Installed Crossovers for components. They happen to fit perfectly on top of the center-bottom compartment that sits above the pull out cup holder. I did fabricate a wood platform, then used some industrial velcro to mount them to the panel.
IMG_4086.jpg
IMG_4087.jpg
Situated the GPS Antenna in a perfect little recess on the dash just left of the center lid location. Ran the cable over and underneath the Center speaker location, and center lid, down into the radio area. Checked that the cable doesn’t get pinched anywhere - the panels float over it nicely.
GPSLocation2.jpg
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