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Old 09-02-2013, 10:32 PM   #1
skill3
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Default T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

I removed my HB today and some forum members wanted me to show photos of the balancer. This process started because I had an intermittent noise coming from the lower part of the front of the engine. The noise sounded like an additional diesel engine noise. Kind of like the engine noise went to stereo. I know that sounds stupid, but that is the best way I can explain it. I hope the photos help others before they experience a failure. This is off my 2006 118" 2500 SHC with 180,000 miles. The harmonic balancer is dated 2005.
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Last edited by skill3; 09-02-2013 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:06 PM   #2
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by skill3 View Post
I removed my HB today and some forum members wanted me to show photos of the balancer. This process started because I had an intermittent noise coming from the lower part of the front of the engine. The noise sounded like an additional diesel engine noise. Kind of like the engine noise went to stereo. I know that sounds stupid, but that is the best way I can explain it. I hope the photos help others before they experience a failure.
How many miles on your T1N? These photos are very helpful!
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:23 AM   #3
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

On a positive note, the spokes look great. No sign of fracture.

Thanks for taking the time to snap the pictures and post them. vic

Added:

Some other condensed information is here.

Harmonic Balancer Information
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=51858
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 03-24-2019 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:28 AM   #4
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

Hmmm, I have had an extra noise from the front end lately, while under moderate throttle, when the van is not fully warmed up, it sounds like a bit of an exhaust leak, but does somewhat go away (but not completely) when the van is fully warmed up. I will be looking at the HB when the rain stops...
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #5
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

Skill3, do you have rear AC?
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:27 PM   #6
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

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Originally Posted by glasseye View Post
Skill3, do you have rear AC?
No, I don't have rear AC.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:48 PM   #7
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

I am wondering if you should have the new harmonic balancer shot-peened before you install it.

Shot-peening compresses the outside skin of the metal, and can help reduce stress risers. Perhaps reducing the liklihood of a fracture. Shot peening used to be a common treatment for racing connecting rods, etc.... components subjected to high stress loads "running" on the surface of metal. Many performance machine shops can do it.

It begs the question: Are MB or Dorman harmonic balancers already shot-peened from the factory?
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #8
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
Hmmm, I have had an extra noise from the front end lately, while under moderate throttle, when the van is not fully warmed up, it sounds like a bit of an exhaust leak, but does somewhat go away (but not completely) when the van is fully warmed up. I will be looking at the HB when the rain stops...
Hmmm... My 2004 Sprinter [66,000 miles] has "always" sounded rougher for the first several miles of a run.

Is this ANOTHER big problem coming up?

No way this 75 year old is going to replace this thing

-Oly
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:27 PM   #9
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

I've never seen a harmonic balancer for real. Is that a layer of some kind of elastic material that's failed? Looks like rubber in the pix. (which are excellent, btw)

I asked about rear AC because it seems like the HB failure is common to those installations. I don't have rear AC and assumed that Frito would be immune to this disease. Wrong assumption, I guess.
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:03 PM   #10
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Default Re: T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

I'm not an expert but I'm not sure shot peening the steel would help since it's the rubber that is seperating.

I just replaced my HB also, I've seen several pix from owners removing the radiator to replace it which is not necessary. The HB is easily removed without disassembling anything. I purchased the Dodge seal installation tool #8936 (MB#611 589 00 14 00) which now supersedes to #8936A and the crankshaft lock #8932 (MB#601 589 02 40 00). The tools are much cheaper from a Mercedes dealer. I modified the seal installation tool so it could be used to press the seal in using the original bolt and washer from the HB. I think the original tool was designed that way but the superseded # is a "driver" so I just cut the end off enabling the original bolt and washer to be used to install the seal. I recommend purchasing the crankshaft lock as it makes it a very simple job. I didn't use the flywheel puller #8940 (MB#613 589 00 33 00) but it would have been handy if my HB wouldn't have come off as easy as it did. Also it is necessary to replace the crankshaft bolt that holds the HB in, part #05073696AA since it is a torque to yield bolt and the seal, part #05073675AB.

The service manual says to remove the key from the keyway and reinstall it in the keyway with gease to hold it in place but mine was held in place by the timing gear on the crankshaft. The most difficult part is the 90 degrees after you torque the bolt to 240 ft lbs. I use a square and marked the 90 degrees on the HB pully using the leading edge of my ratchet as a reference point then tightened the bolt the remaining 90deg.

I forgot to mention mine is a 2006 with 171,000 miles without rear air.

I hope this helps cut down on the time replacing the HB, also feel free to correct me if I have mispoken.

Last edited by bad_assr; 09-05-2013 at 11:06 PM. Reason: forgot to mention
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