Damaged wires in driver door; locking issue

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Following the locking issues for a few years, I stumbled on the dash switch indicator light instructions. Seeing that my driver door indicator was blinking (door not closed) even when it WAS closed, I decided to take a look at the wires. I found that the green/black stripe wire was cut, and the yellow/black stripe wire was on the way. I also found that the black wire was running through the door attachment, rubber stop. It has plenty of free play, and I'm not sure if it is SUPPOSED to run through it, I'll look at the shop manual. It's obvious that the green and yellow wires were abraided from being pinched in the mechanism somehow. The plan is to fix the wires, and tidy it up so there is no chance of wires getting caught on anything anymore. If someone knows the routing of the black wire, if it BELONGS going through the rubber stop for some reason, let me know!
 

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surlyoldbill

Well-known member
I just realized that I didn't CLOSE the door and watch the mechanism; I'll bet the stop swings clear and I can reposition the black wire...:doh:
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
So, this thread is a warning to others to check their door wiring. Mine somehow got caught up in the internal door arm.
I fixed all the wiring and zip tied it up out of harm's way. Dash indicator now shows door shut, but electronic locking still doesn't work (unlocking does). Maybe after a few days the CTM or ECU will reset itself.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
The black wire in the door is the power feed to the driver-side power windows from their switch... but that should be feeding over into the body.

If it was Dark Green, it would be the feed from the driver's door switch to the passenger side movable mirror.

...and it may be the feed for the heated mirrors... an item that's always difficult to find in the wiring diagrams (even though it has its own partial-chapter in the service manual text).
As i write this, i still haven't (re)found it in the schematics to get a wire color for you...

--dick
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
The black wire wasn't yet damaged like the others. All my controls; windows, mirror, work and were working before I discovered this. Without looking, I'll bet the green/bl wire is the "door closed" indicator.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Without looking, I'll bet the green/bl wire is the "door closed" indicator.
I'm glad you asked that... since it led me to look at the page which did show the Black wire.
It's the lock-cylinder sensor.
The "door ajar" switch is the button on the body's hinge-side door frame, a couple of inches above the rubber bellows.
It uses a brown wire with a white stripe.

DoorWires.jpg

--dick (now seeking DG/BL)
 
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surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Yeah, I just looked up the diagram. My damaged wires were the lock/unlock sense wires. I also learned to call the wires with a black stripe "bk" instead of "bl". Makes sense.
 

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autostaretx

Erratic Member
That's cute... what book has that style of wiring diagram?
(the things i post are from the 2003, 2004 and 2006 Freightliner/Dodge/MB-sourced Service Manual CDs.)

--dick
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
That's from the 2003 shop/service manual, available here as a pdf.
Ahhhh.... it's in the subsidiary body_sgmldiag manual... i've only been referring to the main manual

...although... staring at the sgmldiag image... the front doors don't use contact plates. They're directly wired (as you're fighting)
Section 8w-61 (pages -2 and -4) in the main manual shows it correctly.

thanks
--dick
 
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surlyoldbill

Well-known member
I checked the passenger door today to make sure the wires were ok, and they were. Oddly, the dash switch indicator didn't show the status of the passenger door, but did the side and rear. After I took everything apart and put it back together, it now shows the status of the passenger door.

Still no electronic locking, though. And NOW there is no electronic UNlocking of any door except when driver door is also locked...
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
And NOW there is no electronic UNlocking of any door except when driver door is also locked...
..which sure sounds like the DG/BK (Dark Green/Black) might be implicated
Here's the driver's door schematic... note how the connection from the lock-position-switch to the door-ajar switch is external
(the thing that runs a bit horizontally to the C1/1 pin) .. did that get chewed, too, or is it that the lock has to be locked to allow that wire to "cover" for something mashed/minced in the door-ajar switch?

DriverDoorLockWires.jpg

Also, the motor is not going to receive any current unless the Door Ajar switch (if properly wired) thinks that the door is Closed.

--dick
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Dick, prior to discovering the chewed up wires, I could Unlock all doors with the fob or dash switch, but it worked backwards; one click=lights flash, two clicks=side/back/passenger doors unlock, three clicks=driver door unlock.
After repairing the visible damage on the driver door wires, I can only Unlock ANY doors if the driver door is first locked; example, if I only lock the sliding door, the fob and switch will not unlock it. If I lock the sliding door AND the driver door, the fob and switch will unlock both at the same time. I still have to manually lock all doors, the fob or dash switch will not lock any doors.
The dash switch indicator lights are now correct, flashing when door open, solid when door locked.
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
If it stops raining today, I'm going to disassemble the driver door lock/catch/etc and check everything out. When I shut my driver door, I hear the power lock try to cycle, and when I manually lock it from the inside, it seems a little more difficult, and doesn't "click" into place. I'm hoping to discover something easy to repair, which will end my power locking problem that I've had for 3-4 years.
 

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