T.J.T
Member
After taking my 2008 2500 dodge sprinter in and having a EGR valve positioning error and reading about how the valve can be cleaned I was able to take it apart this weekend and clean it up a bit. I pulled as much info off these forums as I could find and it went pretty smooth. I Took some pictures for amusment and also if anyone else feels they want to tackle this maybe it can help.
I pulled the valve off and original found a nice coating on everything. I wiggled it out as it got stuck a couple time but some gentle wiggling back and forth helped it come out. I did have to loosen the oil cap "neck" as it was in the way but it was one bolt then I was able to turn it so the egr would clear coming out.
My initial reaction was it was black(duh). It wasn't as bad as I imagined, but the actual "valve" on the bottom was very dirty and at first i was not able to turn it.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/857/20120415134931.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/20120415134936.jpg/
I found when I did turn it, it would not reset back too the closed position. That would probably be why I was getting a position error and a jerking or stall when I was at low rpms trying to accelerate after being on the highway. The valve would probably open during high speeds then try to close when i slowed down, but the carbon wouldn't allow it so it would choke the engine out. At least in my simple mind that how it worked...
The cleaning went well. I bought some brushes but they were a bit too big to get in there so I had to spray it with the carb cleaner I bought. It seemed to get almost all of the carbon out of the body of the egr valve. The bottom cleaned up very nice with a brush and it moved 1000% better then when i first tried to operate it by hand.
I took a picture after I cleaned the bottom of the valve.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/20120415134944.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/20120415134952.jpg/
I took a couple pictures of the spot the egr sits in, this area had carbon but I didn't clean it as I didn't know if that was a good or bad idea. Just cleaned off the area for the gasket and replaced the valve with the torque wrench at 124 in/lb as I read thats what the T1N EGR should be torqued too. I hope this is the same with the NCV3
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/20120415134959.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/20120415135019.jpg/
I had the dealer tell me there was a "o-ring" for this part, I couldn't not find a O-ring and I found a post on here saying there was NO O-RING(I think from Doc-A) so that something to note. This job was pretty easy and the 20 minute drive home I couldn't get it to do what it was doing before. Time will tell but from what i observed the valve should move much better then before.
probably not the best write up, but it gives new people like me some idea of what it all looks like. I hope I didnt do too many things wrong
I pulled the valve off and original found a nice coating on everything. I wiggled it out as it got stuck a couple time but some gentle wiggling back and forth helped it come out. I did have to loosen the oil cap "neck" as it was in the way but it was one bolt then I was able to turn it so the egr would clear coming out.
My initial reaction was it was black(duh). It wasn't as bad as I imagined, but the actual "valve" on the bottom was very dirty and at first i was not able to turn it.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/857/20120415134931.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/20120415134936.jpg/
I found when I did turn it, it would not reset back too the closed position. That would probably be why I was getting a position error and a jerking or stall when I was at low rpms trying to accelerate after being on the highway. The valve would probably open during high speeds then try to close when i slowed down, but the carbon wouldn't allow it so it would choke the engine out. At least in my simple mind that how it worked...
The cleaning went well. I bought some brushes but they were a bit too big to get in there so I had to spray it with the carb cleaner I bought. It seemed to get almost all of the carbon out of the body of the egr valve. The bottom cleaned up very nice with a brush and it moved 1000% better then when i first tried to operate it by hand.
I took a picture after I cleaned the bottom of the valve.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/20120415134944.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/20120415134952.jpg/
I took a couple pictures of the spot the egr sits in, this area had carbon but I didn't clean it as I didn't know if that was a good or bad idea. Just cleaned off the area for the gasket and replaced the valve with the torque wrench at 124 in/lb as I read thats what the T1N EGR should be torqued too. I hope this is the same with the NCV3
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/20120415134959.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/20120415135019.jpg/
I had the dealer tell me there was a "o-ring" for this part, I couldn't not find a O-ring and I found a post on here saying there was NO O-RING(I think from Doc-A) so that something to note. This job was pretty easy and the 20 minute drive home I couldn't get it to do what it was doing before. Time will tell but from what i observed the valve should move much better then before.
probably not the best write up, but it gives new people like me some idea of what it all looks like. I hope I didnt do too many things wrong
Last edited: