seans
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Wow - sounds a lot like what I'm in the middle of. See this post I made today on the water pump replacement thread.I hope this thread isn't too cold, you guys really got my attention. My 2004 647 has almost 100K on it, and the battery light has been flickering on and off. I took a look at the belt, and it and the tensioner look like the fluttering bad example in the videos above. So I have been reading through this great forum contemplating my next steps. What I could see of the belt looked pretty good, but it is the original. I bought a spare belt from europarts five years ago. It is a Contitech PN 6 PK 2260. Different than the number Vanven had in post 29 for the 647. Would anybody else like to weigh in on the correct Contitech PN for a 647 belt?
I need to decide how deep to go, so I will look to see if the water pump is leaking, check the alternator pulley, maybe check for reasonable torque and smooth movement in the tensioner, look for any breakage in the idler, and replace only with MB parts! This is a passenger van with the aux rear AC, so there are two condensors in front, and a second small cogged V-belt in front of the serpentine. I will check the tensioner and replace that belt also.
In post #37 Steady-Eddie mentioned replacing the pulley on the alternator. Where can you get a replacement alternator pulley? I read in another post that MB only sold the complete alternator. I assume that there area couple special tools involved in removing the pulley from the alternator.... is that correct?
Thanks for any help ...
(from that thread
I'm replacing the alternator, belt, tensioner pulleys, and I'm considering replacing the water pump and other hoses. I have non-OEM parts and am considering doing a temporary repair now and a permanent full repair (replacing the non-OEM parts with Mercedes parts) in the spring when it is warmer.
If you follow the instructions from an earlier post (which I've linked to in my post) you will find that by removing a lot of parts including the bumper, you'll have a LOT more room to work and inspect. I found I had to remove the turbo resonator to get to the top alternator bolts, and this would have been a LOT easier if I had moved the radiator first.
I want to, but have stopped short of removing the transmission cooler lines to swing the radiator out (per the instructions mentioned in the link above). I have never pulled them before but there are a number of threads where people are complaining of transmission fluid leaks at the radiator. I really want to get a better view - I think I might have a weeping water pump seal - but if you remove the wrong fittings you might be asking for trouble aka replacing the radiator. More people need to weigh in on this. See talkinghorse43's posts adjacent to this one (which is just before the other post and includes my guess of which are the danger fittings.)
Can you please post a link to the Doktor A 85K mile maintenance item post?
Thanks and good luck!
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